Tesla’s $16k Quote for a $700 Fix Is Why Right to Repair Matters

Post by a1369209993 » Tue, Jul 13, 2021, 6:21 AM UTC

kube-system wrote: post #106

brigade wrote: post #87

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My suspicion is that he did have collision and comprehensive, thought “obviously damage from road debris falls under my no-fault comprehensive,” then found out that it doesn’t unless it never actually touched the road. And either no one told him that it has to be a collision claim, or he just decided not to bother with a $700 collision claim after he got an independent estimate (and complain to the author that debris…

This is exactly it. The guy doesn't want a $16,000 at-fault claim on his record.

Post by b112 » Tue, Jul 13, 2021, 6:41 AM UTC

a1369209993 wrote: post #437

londons_explore wrote: post #422

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Got one. It's super noisy, the sound vibrates through all the pipes in the house, and sometimes the water can't even get as high as the inlet to the pump. It would just be better if the utility company supplied a decent pressure. But they don't want to do that because their pipes have thousands of leaks in, and the higher the pressure the more water leaks out. This is the problem of living in a place where most of th…

> It's super noisy, the sound vibrates through all the pipes in the house, and sometimes the water can't even get as high as the inlet to the pump. FWIW, the first bit means the pump is defective/badly designed and you need to get a better one (don't have any actionable advice on where, unfortunately), and the second should be fixable by putting the accumulator tank in the basement/hole in the ground, although YMMV o…

Post by b112 » Tue, Jul 13, 2021, 6:51 AM UTC

devenson wrote: post #426

RHSeeger wrote: post #407

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> Pressure reducing valves are used anywhere the pressure going into a home is above 80 PSI, and those are a lot more common than homes needing their own booster pumps My house has one of these, as the pressure would go up to 90 psi sometimes (iirc). Weirdly, my water pressure isn't consistent and can still burst to a "visibly from the tap" higher pressure for a few minutes at a time. I have no idea what causes it.

I wonder if it's from water expanding in the hot water heater. That might be pressurizing your system after you send a volume of cold water into the heater after use. Your pressure reducer valve might be acting like a check valve preventing expansion relief into the municipal supply.

Post by b112 » Tue, Jul 13, 2021, 7:05 AM UTC

Sebb767 wrote: post #220

Arch-TK wrote: post #211

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Why the assumption that the independant tesla repair people don't know this? It might be unknown to you but I assume that people who work with metals and liquids all day long (including coolant) would have some idea of their interaction.

The point is not to call them incompetent - there absolutely are rigorous and good third party repair shops out there. Unfortunately, there are just as much of them just trying to get your money and then fixing it the simplest and cheapest way possible, without the consideration for long term safety and secondary effects that Tesla has probably put in. As an outsider, it's hard to tell the difference, but I agree wit…

Post by cja » Tue, Jul 13, 2021, 7:08 AM UTC

dev_tty01 wrote: post #395

ineedasername wrote: post #376

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They should also have to state how much the repair would cost if done at the factory where they can actually service the battery pack. Imagine if other cars were like that: "Sorry, we're not able to service engines so instead of replacing your timing belt for $400 you have to buy a new engine for $6000"

Yes, this is the correct analogy. TSLA is unable to do a reasonable repair so they should bear the extra cost