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Alex Honnold Scales El Capitan Without Ropes, and the Climbing World Reels

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291–300 of 527 posts

Re: Alex Honnold Scales El Capitan Without Ropes, and the Climbing World Reels

#291
post #29

Some great pictures from the climb: http://elcapreport.com/content/elcap-report-6317-special-edi...

Those photos are amazing.

I'm way outside the bubble of climbing and stuff, so I was surprised to see people sleep up there. I don't know how I'd relax enough to fall asleep :)

Re: Alex Honnold Scales El Capitan Without Ropes, and the Climbing World Reels

#292
post #218
post #136

Earlier quoted context omitted.

One of the most striking quotes for me was: "Alex once told me that he had never fallen completely unexpectedly—meaning without at least some prior inclination that it could happen. When I told him that I had unexpectedly fallen at least ten times, he looked confused, like somehow that didn’t compute." It really illustrates what a professional Alex is and how in-tune he is with his skills and his craft.

Having never tried rock climbing, I'm curious what the potential causes of catastrophic events would be on this kind of a climb (that would necessitate safety gear for most climbers in the first place)...pieces of rock that give out under a hand/foot, appendage slipping out of place, etc.?

when you climb high grades the rock becomes extremely difficult to navigate and 'grip'. The common example is stacking 2-3 credit cards on top of each other and looking at the edge from the top - thats the size of the rock people are holding onto and stepping on with all their weight. In some cases you won't even have a flat piece of rock to step on, imagine climbing a brick wall. Asides from the difficulty, there are obvious elements such as high winds when you're at that altitude, mist, rain, wildlife, etc.

Re: Alex Honnold Scales El Capitan Without Ropes, and the Climbing World Reels

#293
post #6

There's a great documentary on the climbing culture of Yosemite and its evolution (including the equilibrium-punctuating arrival of Alex Honnold) available at least on Netflix: Valley Uprising . Worth a watch.

equilibrium-punctuating arrival of Alex Honnold... Yeah, I guess that just about describes the guys career. Fun question: which people in other disciplines have had the same shattering effect in their field ? I can think of Bobby Fischer and Garry Kasparov in Chess.

Kelly Slater in Surfing

Re: Alex Honnold Scales El Capitan Without Ropes, and the Climbing World Reels

#294
post #278

Earlier quoted context omitted.

Luck only lasts so long. You don't last long at sports like this if you aren't cautious and well-trained, that's for sure. I'll offer a counter anecdote to yours: I was talking to a guy this weekend who had been a serious hang-glider for over a decade when he was younger. Every time a friend would have a problem, he analyzed it and saw that because of the way he operated he wouldn't make the same mistake and could th…

Climbers do this type of analysis too. Accident are reported,filed, and are published in a yearly volume. You can also search online: http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/ It's a great supplement to experience,

German equivalent, must read if you're a climber and know the language: http://www.bergundsteigen.at/

Austria, Switzerland and Germany have a very long rock climbing history (unsurprisingly), and their respective climbing associations are obsessed about safety.

Re: Alex Honnold Scales El Capitan Without Ropes, and the Climbing World Reels

#295
post #278
post #151

Earlier quoted context omitted.

I take the same thing from that quote. I have a good friend who has become one of the top competition paraglider pilots in the world. A lot of paragliders see him as doing terrifying, reckless things. He's told me that he considers himself a conservative pilot, and that he doesn't take risks. I agree with his self-assessment. I've known him a long time, and saw him ascend through a long, well-ordered series of increm…

Luck only lasts so long. You don't last long at sports like this if you aren't cautious and well-trained, that's for sure. I'll offer a counter anecdote to yours: I was talking to a guy this weekend who had been a serious hang-glider for over a decade when he was younger. Every time a friend would have a problem, he analyzed it and saw that because of the way he operated he wouldn't make the same mistake and could th…

There is an old saying in climber culture: "There are old climbers. There are bold climbers... but, there are no old, bold climbers."

Re: Alex Honnold Scales El Capitan Without Ropes, and the Climbing World Reels

#296
post #266

Earlier quoted context omitted.

El Capitan is granite, and perhaps even more importantly, it's very heavily climbed so for the most part anything that can break will have already been broken off by someone else.

I don't agree with that. In fact, I wear a helmet whenever I am near a wall because I have seen way too many formerly solid looking rocks fall, even on granite. Heck, a few years ago, a 2000 ton slab of rock fell off of Half Dome, which is a famous granite dome in Yosemite. I can't find the article now (of course), but I read a great article about how rock expands and contracts with the heat of the sun, water gets in…

Or someone can drop gear.

10% of El Cap accidents are falling objects http://www.climbingyosemite.com/portfolio/danger-zones-nose/

Re: Alex Honnold Scales El Capitan Without Ropes, and the Climbing World Reels

#297

achievements in climbing can be kind of difficult for non-climbers to see the relevancy of, since the conventions of success seem a little arbitrary until you put some time into it. it was interesting to see the news cycle pick up tommy caldwell and kevin jorgeson's ascent of the dawn wall in yosemite in january 2015. it was certainly the biggest thing to happen in yosemite at the time, but no bigger in terms of its…

Looking at the pictures El Capitan seems really tall and flat/sheer. Are there other cliffs in the world that are even taller or more sheer? I'm just wondering since I've seen comments from people saying something to the affect that they can't imagine what could top this. There are thousands of mountains around the world. Surely El Capitan isn't the Mt Everest of climbing.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cliff#Large_and_famous_cliffs:

"Considering a truly vertical drop, Mount Thor on Baffin Island in Arctic Canada is often considered the highest at 1370 m (4500 ft) high in total (the top 480 m (1600 ft) is overhanging), and is said to give it the longest vertical drop on Earth at 1,250 m (4,100 ft). However, other cliffs on Baffin Island, such as Polar Sun Spire in the Sam Ford Fjord, or others in remote areas of Greenland may be higher."

I would guess many of those are at heights or in climates that make climbing without gear a no-go because, even assuming you don't need gloves, you would need too much clothing to stay warm.

Re: Alex Honnold Scales El Capitan Without Ropes, and the Climbing World Reels

#298
post #257

Earlier quoted context omitted.

But what a life they lead. Considering you and I have a 100% chance of death anyway, I see the attraction.

Oh, I agree. I guess I'm saying that if you want to live that life, that's great, go shrink your amygdala. However, if you haven't chosen that, then a smaller amygdala may not help you live a better life.

reducing the amygdala would be a win in stress and anxiety management though which would touch all aspects of life.

Re: Alex Honnold Scales El Capitan Without Ropes, and the Climbing World Reels

#299
post #218

Earlier quoted context omitted.

Having never tried rock climbing, I'm curious what the potential causes of catastrophic events would be on this kind of a climb (that would necessitate safety gear for most climbers in the first place)...pieces of rock that give out under a hand/foot, appendage slipping out of place, etc.?

A month or so ago I watched this 60 minutes of his Half Dome climb ... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SR1jwwagtaQ I seem to recall him saying in it one of the big risks is suddenly being overcome with fear or vertigo from the height.

My hands are sweating non-stop just watching this.

Re: Alex Honnold Scales El Capitan Without Ropes, and the Climbing World Reels

#300

By far the best article I've seen to supplement this: https://www.outsideonline.com/2190306/why-alex-honnolds-free... As a climber, there are very few people that I trust to have a more useful opinion on all this than Tommy Caldwell, a close friend and long time climbing partner of Honnold. It's so out there for most people that most jump to conclusions without proper knowledge of the subject. Caldwell is in an inter…

I've read an article recently - someone actually scanned Honnold's brain and it turns out his amygdala does not respond in the usual way to inputs that in most people would elicit fear. In colloquial terms, he's "fearless". If true, that would explain a lot.

I believe you are referring to this Nautilus article

http://nautil.us/issue/39/sport/the-strange-brain-of-the-wor...

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