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Alex Honnold Scales El Capitan Without Ropes, and the Climbing World Reels

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121–130 of 527 posts

Re: Alex Honnold Scales El Capitan Without Ropes, and the Climbing World Reels

#121
post #69

Earlier quoted context omitted.

it's 50% placebo, 50% soaks up the sweat so you don't feel like you are pulling on a sheet of glass. My ratios may be wrong, adjust to taste.

Agreed, dries hands and magically builds confidence. The ratio depends on weather and grade of the climb.

And the type of stone. There are places in Colorado where I don't bother with chalk because it's sandstone and is so gritty that chalk is ineffective.

Re: Alex Honnold Scales El Capitan Without Ropes, and the Climbing World Reels

#122
post #91

Earlier quoted context omitted.

> A large number of them have died. Paul Preuss (October 3, 1913) died during an attempt to make the first ascent of the North Ridge of the Mandlkogel free solo, fell a thousand feet

Man. According to Wolfram Alpha[1] it'd take 7.9 seconds to fall 1000 feet, with a final velocity of 170mph (77 m/s). [1] - https://m.wolframalpha.com/input/?i=time+to+fall+1000ft

x = .5gt^2

give your brain some exercise

Re: Alex Honnold Scales El Capitan Without Ropes, and the Climbing World Reels

#123
post #94

A couple of years ago it was in the news that a couple a blokes (Caldwell & Jorgeson) had freeclimbed El Capitan. So for those of us who know next to nothing about rock climbing, what's the difference here? Apparently Caldwell & Jorgeson were using ropes for safety although not for the climbing per se (hence why it was freeclimbing?) So this guy does it all alone, without any safety ropes, and in frickin 4 hours? Waa…

what's the difference here? Free-climb - uses ropes for safety in the event of a fall, but does not use ropes for assistance climbing. Free-solo - no ropes at all. Just hands, feet and chalk, basically. IOW, you fall, you die.

Another difference - The free climbing on the Dawn Wall allowed for mistakes because of the ropes. Jorgesen (and maybe Caldwell, I can't recall) both took falls while attempting to climb the wall. The spirit of free climbing is that you do each pitch (basically one rope's length) without falling at least once. If you fall, you go back to the beginning of the pitch. That way, you have essentially climbed the whole route without assistance from pulling on ropes, since you only rest in 'natural' rest areas.

Honnold's free solo is amazing because he did not make a mistake and have to use the rope. Every move was executed perfectly.

Re: Alex Honnold Scales El Capitan Without Ropes, and the Climbing World Reels

#124
post #94

A couple of years ago it was in the news that a couple a blokes (Caldwell & Jorgeson) had freeclimbed El Capitan. So for those of us who know next to nothing about rock climbing, what's the difference here? Apparently Caldwell & Jorgeson were using ropes for safety although not for the climbing per se (hence why it was freeclimbing?) So this guy does it all alone, without any safety ropes, and in frickin 4 hours? Waa…

> So for those of us who know next to nothing about rock climbing, what's the difference here? Apparently Caldwell & Jorgeson were using ropes for safety although not for the climbing per se (hence why it was freeclimbing?) Aid Climbing = using ropes to assist with going up Free Climbing = only using yourself to climb up, but still using ropes to catch your fall Free soloing = climbing with no protection or assistanc…

Honnold has not free climbed the Dawn Wall. Adam Ondra did last year for the second free accent.

[edit: fixed Adam's name]

Re: Alex Honnold Scales El Capitan Without Ropes, and the Climbing World Reels

#126
post #99

Earlier quoted context omitted.

So he should not get wide publicity of this amazing accomplishment because some people are idiots, and we should cater to their idiocy? Couldn't disagree more with this mindset.

No, he should not get wide publicity of this amazing accomplishment because HE is an idiot. The fact that he succeeded (survived) just means that he is still an idiot.

[deleted]

Re: Alex Honnold Scales El Capitan Without Ropes, and the Climbing World Reels

#127
post #94

A couple of years ago it was in the news that a couple a blokes (Caldwell & Jorgeson) had freeclimbed El Capitan. So for those of us who know next to nothing about rock climbing, what's the difference here? Apparently Caldwell & Jorgeson were using ropes for safety although not for the climbing per se (hence why it was freeclimbing?) So this guy does it all alone, without any safety ropes, and in frickin 4 hours? Waa…

> So for those of us who know next to nothing about rock climbing, what's the difference here? Apparently Caldwell & Jorgeson were using ropes for safety although not for the climbing per se (hence why it was freeclimbing?) Aid Climbing = using ropes to assist with going up Free Climbing = only using yourself to climb up, but still using ropes to catch your fall Free soloing = climbing with no protection or assistanc…

Honnold has not climbed the Dawn Wall. There has been only one other ascent by Adam Ondra: https://www.climbing.com/news/adam-ondra-completes-dawn-wall...

Re: Alex Honnold Scales El Capitan Without Ropes, and the Climbing World Reels

#128

Earlier quoted context omitted.

I am not a climber. What's the chalk for ?

it's 50% placebo, 50% soaks up the sweat so you don't feel like you are pulling on a sheet of glass. My ratios may be wrong, adjust to taste.

When I was a math grad student, most of the other grad students hated getting chalk on their hands because it dried their skin out. Whereas I'd grab extra chalk from the board, and rub it over my hands to keep them dry.

Re: Alex Honnold Scales El Capitan Without Ropes, and the Climbing World Reels

#130
By far the best article I've seen to supplement this: https://www.outsideonline.com/2190306/why-alex-honnolds-free...

As a climber, there are very few people that I trust to have a more useful opinion on all this than Tommy Caldwell, a close friend and long time climbing partner of Honnold. It's so out there for most people that most jump to conclusions without proper knowledge of the subject.

Caldwell is in an interesting position of having to balance supporting his friend, and trying to get over the fact that he very well could die doing these attempts. His article does a great job expressing this.

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