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Alex Honnold Scales El Capitan Without Ropes, and the Climbing World Reels

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141–150 of 527 posts

Re: Alex Honnold Scales El Capitan Without Ropes, and the Climbing World Reels

#141

By far the best article I've seen to supplement this: https://www.outsideonline.com/2190306/why-alex-honnolds-free... As a climber, there are very few people that I trust to have a more useful opinion on all this than Tommy Caldwell, a close friend and long time climbing partner of Honnold. It's so out there for most people that most jump to conclusions without proper knowledge of the subject. Caldwell is in an inter…

I've read an article recently - someone actually scanned Honnold's brain and it turns out his amygdala does not respond in the usual way to inputs that in most people would elicit fear. In colloquial terms, he's "fearless".

If true, that would explain a lot.

Re: Alex Honnold Scales El Capitan Without Ropes, and the Climbing World Reels

#142
post #4

As a climber, I wish this were less widely publicized. Free soloing is extremely dangerous, and dozens of climbers - including experienced ones die doing it every year.

As a climber, you aren't very well informed. Dozens of rock climbers do not die free soloing every year.

Honnold's solo of El Cap is arguably the greatest outdoor sports feat ever. Of course it's going to be publicised.

Re: Alex Honnold Scales El Capitan Without Ropes, and the Climbing World Reels

#143
post #99

Earlier quoted context omitted.

So he should not get wide publicity of this amazing accomplishment because some people are idiots, and we should cater to their idiocy? Couldn't disagree more with this mindset.

No, he should not get wide publicity of this amazing accomplishment because HE is an idiot. The fact that he succeeded (survived) just means that he is still an idiot.

Honnold had practiced individual segments multiple times before this attempt. Those practice runs had left rubber marks on the walls, which helped him in following a specific route. Before attempting the complete climb, Honnold verified that the rubber marks were not removed by the rains. Plus, he has a daily regimen of specific exercises, so many freeclimbs before, etc. A complete professional, not an idiot for sure.

Here are more details about this climb and his preparation: http://www.nationalgeographic.com/adventure/features/athlete...

Re: Alex Honnold Scales El Capitan Without Ropes, and the Climbing World Reels

#144

By far the best article I've seen to supplement this: https://www.outsideonline.com/2190306/why-alex-honnolds-free... As a climber, there are very few people that I trust to have a more useful opinion on all this than Tommy Caldwell, a close friend and long time climbing partner of Honnold. It's so out there for most people that most jump to conclusions without proper knowledge of the subject. Caldwell is in an inter…

I've read an article recently - someone actually scanned Honnold's brain and it turns out his amygdala does not respond in the usual way to inputs that in most people would elicit fear. In colloquial terms, he's "fearless". If true, that would explain a lot.

Link for those curious:

http://nautil.us/issue/39/sport/the-strange-brain-of-the-wor...

Re: Alex Honnold Scales El Capitan Without Ropes, and the Climbing World Reels

#145

Earlier quoted context omitted.

> So for those of us who know next to nothing about rock climbing, what's the difference here? Apparently Caldwell & Jorgeson were using ropes for safety although not for the climbing per se (hence why it was freeclimbing?) Aid Climbing = using ropes to assist with going up Free Climbing = only using yourself to climb up, but still using ropes to catch your fall Free soloing = climbing with no protection or assistanc…

Honnold has not free climbed the Dawn Wall. Adam Ondra did last year for the second free accent. [edit: fixed Adam's name]

Correct. The hardest pitch on the Dawn Wall is rated 9a and in addition the climbing is of a very particular style (slabs) that does not suite most 9a climbers. It is quite possible that the Dawn Wall won't be repeated for a long time. Alex Honnold has never free climbed any 9a but recently stated that this is one of his next goals.

Re: Alex Honnold Scales El Capitan Without Ropes, and the Climbing World Reels

#146
post #41

Earlier quoted context omitted.

Amongst the legendary free soloist rock climbers, here's the spread: John Gill, alive at 80 Peter Croft, alive at 60 Alain Robert, alive at 54 Catherine Destiville, alive at 53 Steph Davis, alive at 43 Alex Honnold, alive at 31 Dan Osmond, died at 45, not free soloing Dean Potter, died at 43, not free soloing Michael Reardon, died at 43, not free soloing John Bachar died free soloing at 52 It's a very small field, no…

Dan Osman still died by falling off a cliff.. equipment failure though https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wY6YsM5Rh0Y

He left his ropes during days in the sun and rain, after having made many fall factor ones with it. Not surprising really.

Re: Alex Honnold Scales El Capitan Without Ropes, and the Climbing World Reels

#147

> "I woke up one guy and he sort of said, 'Oh, hey.' Then when I went by, I think he discreetly woke up his buddies because when I looked down they were all three standing there like 'What the f *?' " What an awesome story for a climber: "I was woken up on the wall by the first guy to free solo El Cap"

"Dressed in a chicken suit"

Check #6 here: http://elcapreport.com/content/elcap-report-6317-special-edi...

Re: Alex Honnold Scales El Capitan Without Ropes, and the Climbing World Reels

#148
post #4

As a climber, I wish this were less widely publicized. Free soloing is extremely dangerous, and dozens of climbers - including experienced ones die doing it every year.

I am not a climber. What's the chalk for ?

As someone whose best day climbing was a 5.6 route on Yosemite's Cathedral Peak with a guide, I will add that one purpose of chalk might well be for guides to mark where the holds are for their clients.

Re: Alex Honnold Scales El Capitan Without Ropes, and the Climbing World Reels

#149
post #30

Earlier quoted context omitted.

As a fairly experienced climber, this is a very difficult route; one that only the most elite climbers can free climb. But, free climbing it isn't necessarily rare and even as Honnold did this free solo, other parties were camping on the wall. There's little data on this sort of topic, but I'd estimate that less than 0.25% of climbers achieve the level of physical skill and technical expertise required to free climb…

If Honnold can solo this route in 4 hours, why do the free climbers need to camp on it? Do they take longer? Or need more rest time between sections?

Most climbers take significantly longer because:

1) When using gear (unlike Alex), you have to repeatedly stop and insert it, referred to as "protection." This slows progress and your partner has to then stop and remove that protection as you ascend. After each pitch (think a rope length), you then have to set up an anchor and organize/sort the gear before progressing. So, using and managing gear takes considerable time.

2) Two climbers are usually taking turns, with one belaying while the other climbs.

3) Alex has a level of competence on rock unmatched by us other climbers; his mastery allows him to swiftly glide through sections where most climbers would need more time to think about the moves, analyze the options, etc.

4) Alex was very familiar with the route, with many sequences memorized. Doing the route with less familiarity is like a puzzle, resulting in slower progress as you figure out how to get through various sections.

5) Alex has better stamina with less need for rest.

6) This is a hard route, and many climbers might fall or rest on their gear repeatedly while working through difficult sections.

I'm sure I'm leaving out a few reasons but in a nutshell, keeping it simple (no gear, no partner, no unknown moves, etc.) increases efficiency.

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