121–130 of 151 posts
I did a lot of bouldering and wanted to start doing lead climbing, until I learned that there's no independent certification for ropes.
Earlier quoted context omitted.
I would never trust my safety to a bowline. It comes loose with a minimum of working. Only under constant load would I use it, and only then when double hitched, and probably with a finisher clove hitch. Even my dog gets away from a bowline with a minimum of moving around the front yard.
I rarely see people tying in with a single bowline, for the reason you give. I've been using a double bowline with a stopper knot ( http://www.vdiffclimbing.com/double-bowline/ ) for many years now (well, at least outside of the climbing gym). I've never had an issue with the knot loosening when not under load. The usual complaint I hear from people about using it to tie-in is that it is harder for your partner to vi…
Is there a good knot resource that helps you start from "I need to..."? e.g. "I need to make a loop that doesn't slip." "I need to tie two ropes of different widths together." etc. I know most knot books and sites do tell you the purpose of a knot, but I often find their organization doesn't easily lead me to the answer.
Random comment: Securing the trace eight with a second knot is really not necessary, as it is a self tightening knot. Most climbers don't do it, my climbing safety book doesn't show it and all gyms I've been too, sans one in Vancouver WA for some reason, don't require it. Rough rule is two fists length for the tail and you're good. Another comment mentioned this too, it's much easier to untie if tied in a specific wa…
This is really regional. In some countries most people use the second knot, in others most don't. E.g. I've rarely seen it used in the US, but it's standard practice in much of europe. Whichever you do, if you do it different to the majority view for the region you can often end up with some heavily-opinionated person coming up and telling you that you're doing it wrong so I mostly switch depending on where I am. It'…
No love for the Alpine Butterfly?
Super easy to tie (on a bight). Can be loaded in any direction. And then easy to untie.
Earlier quoted context omitted.
Was also surprised not seeing the EDK for abseiling. Perhaps it's a cultural thing?
From the time of your reply I assume you're also in Europe or at least not in the Americas. You are spot on in your guess. Colleagues and friends over the pond don't use the EDK for abseiling or rappelling as they say. Also, not sure how the name was picked-up, but that's just plain bad marketing putting Death in the name :)
(Big caveat: this all depends on joining nylon ropes of similar diameters. Different diameters and UHMWPE cord has different rules)
My understanding is that the American's picked it up from the Europeans in the 90's, but then mixed up with the figure-8 knot which is the actual death knot. Some guy on the internet did some tests, and the figure 8 will roll and capsize at about 1-2 kN. Rappel loads are usually a bit under 1 kN, but if you hit enough snags, it could come out and there was a bunch of accidents resulting from that.
The overhand knot, when tied normally will role at about 3-4 kN which is well above a normal amount of force in a rappel. Also, it tightens as it rolls, so with enough tail, you'll be dead from something else before it could be a concern.
Incidentally, the double fisherman has a bad habit of getting stuck, so if you're doing multiple rappels, especially in icy conditions, or in sticky/jagged rocks, it presents a whole different safety problem.
Edit: source https://user.xmission.com/~tmoyer/testing/EDK.html
Random comment: Securing the trace eight with a second knot is really not necessary, as it is a self tightening knot. Most climbers don't do it, my climbing safety book doesn't show it and all gyms I've been too, sans one in Vancouver WA for some reason, don't require it. Rough rule is two fists length for the tail and you're good. Another comment mentioned this too, it's much easier to untie if tied in a specific wa…
stupid question from a sailor: how does a trace eight differ from a standard figure of eight?