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Essential Climbing Knots

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Re: Essential Climbing Knots

#2
Hmm. A few thoughts.

There are alternatives to the Prussik such as the Klemheist which don't jam as badly.

I wouldn't use a ring bend - the double fisherman's is superior for tying rope or cord ends together to create a sling. And I definitely wouldn't use either a ring bend or a double fisherman's to link ropes for abseil. An overhand tied in both ropes (with a 50cm tail) -aka the EDK or European Death Knot is way superior, as the body of the knot sits to one side of the line of the tightened rope, so it tends not to catch in cracks.

Finally, extending slings by linking them over and under into a reef knot is stronger than a girth hitch.

Re: Essential Climbing Knots

#3
Pretty comprehensive. One thing to point out is that girth hitching slings (like they show in the girth hitch image) or other material together will eventually wear through so don't do this on a long term basis [1] but only for short term use like extending a sling.

[1] https://www.climbing.com/news/loss-of-a-legend/

Re: Essential Climbing Knots

#5
post #2

Hmm. A few thoughts. There are alternatives to the Prussik such as the Klemheist which don't jam as badly. I wouldn't use a ring bend - the double fisherman's is superior for tying rope or cord ends together to create a sling. And I definitely wouldn't use either a ring bend or a double fisherman's to link ropes for abseil. An overhand tied in both ropes (with a 50cm tail) -aka the EDK or European Death Knot is way s…

Fair point re: the Klemheist although the Prussik serves well enough.

For my part I wouldn't use a figure 8 in a bight to get a loop in the middle of a lonf rope that's going to take load - the butterfly knot is far superior.

Re: Essential Climbing Knots

#6
post #2

Hmm. A few thoughts. There are alternatives to the Prussik such as the Klemheist which don't jam as badly. I wouldn't use a ring bend - the double fisherman's is superior for tying rope or cord ends together to create a sling. And I definitely wouldn't use either a ring bend or a double fisherman's to link ropes for abseil. An overhand tied in both ropes (with a 50cm tail) -aka the EDK or European Death Knot is way s…

Was also surprised not seeing the EDK for abseiling. Perhaps it's a cultural thing?

Re: Essential Climbing Knots

#8
post #2

Hmm. A few thoughts. There are alternatives to the Prussik such as the Klemheist which don't jam as badly. I wouldn't use a ring bend - the double fisherman's is superior for tying rope or cord ends together to create a sling. And I definitely wouldn't use either a ring bend or a double fisherman's to link ropes for abseil. An overhand tied in both ropes (with a 50cm tail) -aka the EDK or European Death Knot is way s…

> I wouldn't use a ring bend - the double fisherman's is superior for tying rope or cord ends together to create a sling.

Broadly agree, but a ring bend is handy for tying lengths of tape in to slings. Pretty niche these days though given the ubiquity of sewn slings.

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