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Firewood Splitting Simulator

screen.toys

281–290 of 302 posts

Re: Firewood Splitting Simulator

#281
post #255

Earlier quoted context omitted.

I don't burn softwood because hardwood is a much better fuel as a primary heat source, especially when you live in a mixed forest. Sugar maple, red oak, birch, and beech. Beech is the best: straight grain, good density, but less common where I live. The trick to splitting hardwood, other than avoiding burls and knots, is to shave off chords around the outside of the buck. If you tried radial cuts or splitting on the…

Advice I would add: use a tire when splitting firewood to hold the logs together. See: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PMv6-SYzv-Q Wood no longer goes flying. Much easier to chop quickly.

That’s a rad technique. Thanks for sharing.

Re: Firewood Splitting Simulator

#282

Earlier quoted context omitted.

I do a lot of game stuff (professionally and just for fun) and play around with maxing out vibeing little feature samples. This would be fairly straightforward vibecode over a day or two. Definitely not to throw shade at the guy. But yea, there is nothing here that wouldn't be easily vibeable.

My point is that it's easily vibeable for you , because you do game stuff. I don't - I did large scale web, embedded, data, and security, but no graphics or games. I wouldn't know where to begin.

Remaking this exact game on your engine of choice would actually be a great starter project. It's extremely small and self contained, very little actual interaction, simple models and whatever textures you can make or steal.

Re: Firewood Splitting Simulator

#283
post #154

This is kinda fun, but doesn't match most of my experience splitting firewood. The wood barely moves after it's split. If you split it perfectly, the two halves will almost certainly both fall to each side (they're pushed outwards by the axe). You can't just randomly split it across the grain into slices like you're slicing bread. I guess mostly: it's not tiring, which sort of sucks when you're doing it for real, but…

For players who are new to the game, there should be a 1/4 chance you go to bed proud of an honest day's work with your hands, and wake up the next morning having strained a muscle you didn't even know you had, and you can't chop wood for the next couple weeks.

Yes, and possibly a constellation of little cuts and bruises on your shins.

Re: Firewood Splitting Simulator

#284
post #248
post #235

Earlier quoted context omitted.

Use a nice large maul. Will go through most wood like a butter knife. I stupidly used a axe for a long time.

TIL about existence of (non-game like) mauls and that they might be used for splitting firewood.

Wait till you see the hydraulic mauls.

Re: Firewood Splitting Simulator

#288

Earlier quoted context omitted.

Knowing how ours were built, I don't even know what you describe could happen. The intake vents are on the floor with a standard height raised hearth (12"???) while the exit vents are about 6' off the floor. Not really sure how smoke is any where near the intake. The smoke is contained within the chimney. I'm at a loss at how to design something so poorly that the smoke is near any vents. Then again, I've grown up ar…

Maybe I misunderstand your description. I'm referring to the fresh air inlet for the fire, not additional HVAC pipes. It is common for attempts to put a fresh air inlet in a fireplace to instead have smoke go out that fresh air inlet.

My understanding is that the venting dylan604 is describing relate to airflow around the firebox / chimney, rather than in or out of the firebox.

An incorrectly-placed firebox intake, or even a poorly-drafting open-hearth fireplace, can indeed dump smoke (and carbon monoxide) into the living / heated space.

Re: Firewood Splitting Simulator

#290
post #255

Earlier quoted context omitted.

I don't burn softwood because hardwood is a much better fuel as a primary heat source, especially when you live in a mixed forest. Sugar maple, red oak, birch, and beech. Beech is the best: straight grain, good density, but less common where I live. The trick to splitting hardwood, other than avoiding burls and knots, is to shave off chords around the outside of the buck. If you tried radial cuts or splitting on the…

Between yours and the parent comment, I'm just surprised how LONG splitting wood takes. A year for a season's wood feels much longer than I would have imagined.

My experience is it takes 100 hours to buck, split, haul, and stack the 7 or so cords of wood it takes to heat my house. A cord is 4 feet by 4 feet by 8 feet. The total time includes time it takes to sharpen the saw, and time it takes for trips to the gas station for gas for the saw and the splitter. Time for replacing the handle on the maul or the oil in the splitter is extra.

But that 100 hours is using a hydraulic splitter. Hand-splitting using a maul takes several hours longer. But it keeps you twice as warm: it heats you once when you split it and once when you burn it.

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