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A Master Perfumer's Reflections on Patchouli and Vetiver

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21–30 of 30 posts

Re: A Master Perfumer's Reflections on Patchouli and Vetiver

#21
post #9

I (re)discovered an interest in natural scents earlier this year when I tried eliminating petrochemical skin products. Coconut oil and aloe vera (about 80:20), olive oil liquid soap, and essential oils - including patchouli, cedar, oak moss, lavender, vetiver, (European) bay, tea tree, melissa. My best effort so far is a rosemary/eucalyptus/bay aftershave balm.

I guess a word to the wise, or others who may not have your experience, be careful about assuming natural stuff is safe. Some essential oils are irritating, and some can be bad for you unless carefully handled (eg jasmine oil should be well diluted into a carrier oil before it touches your skin).

I read somewhere that basically all essential oils are dangerous because they are so concentrated. They have to be diluted to be safe. The article claimed that some individuals had given themselves an allergy to lavender by using the essential oil undiluted.

Unfortunately I don't have a reference (read that a few years ago). Would be interested to know if it's true.

Re: A Master Perfumer's Reflections on Patchouli and Vetiver

#22
post #9

I (re)discovered an interest in natural scents earlier this year when I tried eliminating petrochemical skin products. Coconut oil and aloe vera (about 80:20), olive oil liquid soap, and essential oils - including patchouli, cedar, oak moss, lavender, vetiver, (European) bay, tea tree, melissa. My best effort so far is a rosemary/eucalyptus/bay aftershave balm.

I guess a word to the wise, or others who may not have your experience, be careful about assuming natural stuff is safe. Some essential oils are irritating, and some can be bad for you unless carefully handled (eg jasmine oil should be well diluted into a carrier oil before it touches your skin).

Yes, absolutely. Dilution to 1% for anything applied to my face (about 3 drops/15ml), and I test anything new elsewhere first (no reactions so far!). Stick to good quality high purity oils suitable for massage, avoid photosensitising oils (citrus types, as a rule of thumb). The only thing I use neat oils on is hardwood handled cutlery, a good use for expired citrus oils.

Re: A Master Perfumer's Reflections on Patchouli and Vetiver

#23
post #21
post #9

Earlier quoted context omitted.

I guess a word to the wise, or others who may not have your experience, be careful about assuming natural stuff is safe. Some essential oils are irritating, and some can be bad for you unless carefully handled (eg jasmine oil should be well diluted into a carrier oil before it touches your skin).

I read somewhere that basically all essential oils are dangerous because they are so concentrated. They have to be diluted to be safe. The article claimed that some individuals had given themselves an allergy to lavender by using the essential oil undiluted. Unfortunately I don't have a reference (read that a few years ago). Would be interested to know if it's true.

Essential oils have high concentrations of lipophilic compounds which have little trouble crossing membranes. As luck would have it chapter 7 "The safety issue in aromatherapy" of Aromatherapy Science (ISBN: 0 85369 578 4) is a freely available sample chapter (pharmpress.com)

Re: A Master Perfumer's Reflections on Patchouli and Vetiver

#24
post #6

Vetiver is a Tamil word. Ver literally means root. https://translate.google.com/?sl=auto&tl=ta&text=vetiver&op=... (You can listen to the pronunciation of the English version and the Tamil version in the Google Translate link above). I remember my childhood days when the vetiver roots were used to add fragrance to bath water and fragrance & taste to summer drinks.

Patchouli is of Tamil origin as well. From pachai - green, ilai - leaf.

Re: A Master Perfumer's Reflections on Patchouli and Vetiver

#25
post #21

Earlier quoted context omitted.

I read somewhere that basically all essential oils are dangerous because they are so concentrated. They have to be diluted to be safe. The article claimed that some individuals had given themselves an allergy to lavender by using the essential oil undiluted. Unfortunately I don't have a reference (read that a few years ago). Would be interested to know if it's true.

Essential oils have high concentrations of lipophilic compounds which have little trouble crossing membranes. As luck would have it chapter 7 "The safety issue in aromatherapy" of Aromatherapy Science (ISBN: 0 85369 578 4) is a freely available sample chapter (pharmpress.com)

Ah thanks. Seems basically true then.

Re: A Master Perfumer's Reflections on Patchouli and Vetiver

#26
post #9

I (re)discovered an interest in natural scents earlier this year when I tried eliminating petrochemical skin products. Coconut oil and aloe vera (about 80:20), olive oil liquid soap, and essential oils - including patchouli, cedar, oak moss, lavender, vetiver, (European) bay, tea tree, melissa. My best effort so far is a rosemary/eucalyptus/bay aftershave balm.

I guess a word to the wise, or others who may not have your experience, be careful about assuming natural stuff is safe. Some essential oils are irritating, and some can be bad for you unless carefully handled (eg jasmine oil should be well diluted into a carrier oil before it touches your skin).

> be careful about assuming natural stuff is safe

Giant hogweed is completely natural. You do not want it on your skin, in any concentration.

Re: A Master Perfumer's Reflections on Patchouli and Vetiver

#27
post #24
post #6

Vetiver is a Tamil word. Ver literally means root. https://translate.google.com/?sl=auto&tl=ta&text=vetiver&op=... (You can listen to the pronunciation of the English version and the Tamil version in the Google Translate link above). I remember my childhood days when the vetiver roots were used to add fragrance to bath water and fragrance & taste to summer drinks.

Patchouli is of Tamil origin as well. From pachai - green, ilai - leaf.

Learnt something new today! I never imagined that to have originated from Tamil (I am a native speaker of the language) and always thought it had some esoteric European origin. From the phonetics, this definitely sounds quite plausible that it originated in Tamil. Thanks for the pointer.

Re: A Master Perfumer's Reflections on Patchouli and Vetiver

#28
As someone who has loved the Karma scent from Lush for so long, I totally love Patchouli! It's coming back. Let's bring it back.

On the other hand, it blows my mind reading this and feeling a bit stuffed up - one smell and about 3 seconds would be so much more information than this article. Not that the article is bad, but I can't even imagine what the scent would be without already knowing it. If only we had smell-o-vision.

Re: A Master Perfumer's Reflections on Patchouli and Vetiver

#29
post #2

writing so interesting that it makes me wish I was into perfume. I knew that historically perfumers took their job very seriously, but I was unaware that kind of artisanal appreciation was still around; I thought it was mostly a corporate laboratory kind of thing now.

Honestly I read this less as the writing of a perfumer and more the writing of a master. This is just how people who know their subject intimately (and have some writing skill) communicate. It is somewhat rare, as often the people who are truly good at what they do would rather do it than write about it.

From the book "The Excitement of Science", by Platt.

"But the remarkable thing about it is that among men who really know something, the looks quickly cease to matter. I remember very clearly the dinner party where I first met L. L. Thurstone, the engineer who became a psychologist and developed the powerful statistical method called factor analysis.

[...] within ten seconds after he began to talk, I could no longer see the face at all, for I was looking at a mind. The excitement of hearing his reasoning and his experience led the whole party out into an area of intellect where such trivia as looks and clothes, the room, the dinner, all faded into the background. I think we rose not knowing what we had eaten and had brandy afterwards up in the flow of the conversation. I suppose it was painful to our hostess that we did not notice much her careful preparations; but if I have forgotten her entrée, I have not forgotten her guest of honor."

Re: A Master Perfumer's Reflections on Patchouli and Vetiver

#30

Also interesting, a village[1] in India has figured out a way to bottle the fragrance of the monsoon. [1] https://www.theatlantic.com/international/archive/2015/04/ma...

And watch The enchanting smell (and revolting flavor) of rain https://youtu.be/_8vHsY_QVHM
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