A Master Perfumer's Reflections on Patchouli and Vetiver
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A Master Perfumer's Reflections on Patchouli and Vetiver
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Re: A Master Perfumer's Reflections on Patchouli and Vetiver
#2writing so interesting that it makes me wish I was into perfume.
I knew that historically perfumers took their job very seriously, but I was unaware that kind of artisanal appreciation was still around; I thought it was mostly a corporate laboratory kind of thing now.
Re: A Master Perfumer's Reflections on Patchouli and Vetiver
#3writing so interesting that it makes me wish I was into perfume. I knew that historically perfumers took their job very seriously, but I was unaware that kind of artisanal appreciation was still around; I thought it was mostly a corporate laboratory kind of thing now.
You may enjoy the 2003 book, "The Emperor of Scent." The primary subject of the book, research scientist Luca Turin, theorizes that the human identification of scent is done through receptors that instantly identify the bonds — quantum vibrations — of a given molecule. Turin himself is an interesting character, and I thought the book a great read (at the time, anyway).
Re: A Master Perfumer's Reflections on Patchouli and Vetiver
#4writing so interesting that it makes me wish I was into perfume. I knew that historically perfumers took their job very seriously, but I was unaware that kind of artisanal appreciation was still around; I thought it was mostly a corporate laboratory kind of thing now.
There are both aspects in commercial perfumery, which makes it a pretty interesting industry. It’s true that there’s a definite laboratory slant when a fragrance needs to be validated and modified to meet regulatory standards for sale (which vary widely by region), and of course during mass production, but many big labels still tap independent perfumers who often work in pretty simple, bohemian digs, where a digital scale is about the most advanced gear in use. And there are legitimately thousands of independent perfumeries producing commercial fragrances at relatively small scale.
Many perfumers are trained chemists, but it’s definitely not a prerequisite.
Re: A Master Perfumer's Reflections on Patchouli and Vetiver
#5The author, JC Ellena is now retired and was the house perfurmer of Hermes for many years. He is definitely one of the most important perfurmers of all time having created many many problems including two of the most iconic perfumes of all time: Cartier Declaration and Terre d'Hermes.
I recommend everybody not familiar with perfumery to go to a Sephora or similar store and try these two masterpieces. They are so iconic (and popular) that you ll get memories of people wearing them in your past; the memory of smell is really strong.
This was a revelation to me when I did that before some years and made me really love perfumes after that!
Re: A Master Perfumer's Reflections on Patchouli and Vetiver
#6Vetiver is a Tamil word. Ver literally means root.
https://translate.google.com/?sl=auto&tl=ta&text=vetiver&op=... (You can listen to the pronunciation of the English version and the Tamil version in the Google Translate link above).
I remember my childhood days when the vetiver roots were used to add fragrance to bath water and fragrance & taste to summer drinks.
Re: A Master Perfumer's Reflections on Patchouli and Vetiver
#7I (re)discovered an interest in natural scents earlier this year when I tried eliminating petrochemical skin products. Coconut oil and aloe vera (about 80:20), olive oil liquid soap, and essential oils - including patchouli, cedar, oak moss, lavender, vetiver, (European) bay, tea tree, melissa. My best effort so far is a rosemary/eucalyptus/bay aftershave balm.
Re: A Master Perfumer's Reflections on Patchouli and Vetiver
#8writing so interesting that it makes me wish I was into perfume. I knew that historically perfumers took their job very seriously, but I was unaware that kind of artisanal appreciation was still around; I thought it was mostly a corporate laboratory kind of thing now.
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Re: A Master Perfumer's Reflections on Patchouli and Vetiver
#9I (re)discovered an interest in natural scents earlier this year when I tried eliminating petrochemical skin products. Coconut oil and aloe vera (about 80:20), olive oil liquid soap, and essential oils - including patchouli, cedar, oak moss, lavender, vetiver, (European) bay, tea tree, melissa. My best effort so far is a rosemary/eucalyptus/bay aftershave balm.
I guess a word to the wise, or others who may not have your experience, be careful about assuming natural stuff is safe. Some essential oils are irritating, and some can be bad for you unless carefully handled (eg jasmine oil should be well diluted into a carrier oil before it touches your skin).
Re: A Master Perfumer's Reflections on Patchouli and Vetiver
#10The author, JC Ellena is now retired and was the house perfurmer of Hermes for many years. He is definitely one of the most important perfurmers of all time having created many many problems including two of the most iconic perfumes of all time: Cartier Declaration and Terre d'Hermes. I recommend everybody not familiar with perfumery to go to a Sephora or similar store and try these two masterpieces. They are so icon…
For many years I didn’t appreciate perfumes. I didn’t understand them. I encourage you to take the advice above, watch a few Jeremy Fragrance videos, and get some feedback from your romantic partner. You’ll be thankful for knowing a thing or two about fragrances.