I don't understand this criticism at all; could you clarify what the issue is?
None of this - DoH, nor HTTPS-only - is required. It's not even on by default (yet). If you have some specific wishes; it's trivial to pick a different DNS system, or leave https-only off.
Additionally, DoH and https-only aren't really closed or locked in in any way. There's a cloudflare-base DoH option that's used by default, but just as you can pick your own DNS servers, you can also pick your own DoH servers. Sure, it's new (and thus not on by default), so selection is still fairly limited. But even ISPs are starting to offer DoH, and surely others will too. There's no reason to assume that you won't soon be able to pick from several choices for your DoH setup, including local or LAN options.
You mention pihole; and though I've never used it, they do have a page on DoH, and a superficial skim doesn't have any huge issues: https://docs.pi-hole.net/guides/dns-over-https/ - and looks like it's based on code described here https://developers.cloudflare.com/1.1.1.1/dns-over-https/clo... - and that supports upstream and downstream DoH, by the looks of it.
In other words: all change has some friction, but if you want local control: you still have it. The only thing you really lose is the ability for networks to hijack DNS of devices that don't trust it. And that's a feature, right? If you trust the network; sure, use that DNS if you want. But if you don't: better that its easier to avoid control by that network.
What downsides does DoH have?