91–100 of 170 posts
The title here should have "737 NG, Classic" not "737 NG Classic". As in "Boeing 737 NG and Classic aircraft", not "Boeing 737 NG Classic aircraft".
The title here should have "737 NG, Classic" not "737 NG Classic". As in "Boeing 737 NG and Classic aircraft", not "Boeing 737 NG Classic aircraft".
And why not just "NG and Classic"? Really curious, I see this replacement of "and" for a comma in a lot on headlines, and I don't know why or where it comes from (English is not my first language). Is there a name for this?
I have been wondering how dangerous flying is going to be when when / if it comes back and all these planes come out of storage. Mechanical things just sitting around is some times far worse than them being in constant use.
Luckily, this is already pretty standard practice for airplanes. I worry a little more about theme parks that don't do winter shutdowns or might not have done the full shut it down for the winter procedure with sudden lockdown orders. The regulatory environment is also sketchier.
The title here should have "737 NG, Classic" not "737 NG Classic". As in "Boeing 737 NG and Classic aircraft", not "Boeing 737 NG Classic aircraft".
And why not just "NG and Classic"? Really curious, I see this replacement of "and" for a comma in a lot on headlines, and I don't know why or where it comes from (English is not my first language). Is there a name for this?
Earlier quoted context omitted.
And why not just "NG and Classic"? Really curious, I see this replacement of "and" for a comma in a lot on headlines, and I don't know why or where it comes from (English is not my first language). Is there a name for this?
Most english speakers also wouldn't be familiar with the term, but it is called 'Headlinese'. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Headline#Headlinese
One of the inspection checklist items: Measure the clearance between the flapper bushings at both locations on each engine bleed air 5th stage check valve. If the clearance between the flapper bushings is a minimum of 0.004 inch (0.102 mm) at both locations, the engine bleed air 5th stage check valve at that location has passed this inspection. I knew that aviation engineering dealt with tight tolerances, but boy, it…
For about five bucks you can get feeler gauges more accurate than that, and for about thirty you can get a micrometer that's accurate to 0.0005" over a whole inch. (I checked mine against a set of grade 2 gauge blocks at their calibrated temperature.)
Normal CNC machines, not designed for extreme precision but the sort of thing an exceptionally serious hobbyist or decent makerspace might have just sitting around, will happily hold 0.001" across the entire working envelope, which may be the volume of a couch cushion or larger. The one I'm familiar with (which dominates one corner of the local makerspace) has thermal sensors scattered about the large castings that make up the machine frame, so it can compensate in software for the estimated warpage of the frame depending on how the HVAC has been blowing on it. And that's mid-90s tech, things have only gotten better since then.
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Who even uses calipers for critical precision? Calipers are for dimensions machinists append with -ish, as in four thousandths-ish. Important dimensions deserve a micrometer, especially the feeler guage that just said you need to tell your boss to scrap a 737. Decent machine shops even have different classes of micrometer; there's the one you carry in your pocket, and then there's the fancy set locked up in your boss…
You don't scrap a 737 for some worn out parts.
These planes have regular maintenance checks and diagnostics to help identify issues before they become catastrophic failures. This whole thing is likely a normal maintenance issue, maybe unexpected due to the unusual nature of the scenario they face with so many idle jets, but not something that would have escaped their servicing routines. The system flagged a problem and now they can address it. If for some reason their diagnostics were not set up to detect this sort of issue then you have a problem.
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I love that out of all the more complex ideas about what may have been used, it turns out likely to be a solid piece of metal with of a given thickness, couldn't get more simple than that.
If you're into 3D Printing, feeler gauges are also a great way to level your bed... move the extruder 0.04 above the bed at four points, stick your 0.04 feeler under it and adjust the springs until it touches the feeler. Voila, one perfectly leveled 3D printer bed.
The non-precise way you've already heard about, sheet of paper, check for dragging.
The better (more precise) way, is using a magnetic base micrometer attached to your extruder head. You can then watch the bed run-out in real time; if your 3d printer supports many configurable sections across the bed ( I know Prusa style cartesian units mostly all support quadrants) you can record the run out everywhere across the plane without any more physical work than watching the gauge and recording the results.
P.S. be careful using both the micrometer and the feeler gauges on a 3d printer bed. Most work plates now-a-days are using PEI coatings that'll scrape off easily with metal-on-metal contact.
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This tool would be capable of performing that measurement with 0.001" accuracy. https://www.harborfreight.com/feeler-gauge-32-pc-63665.html Someone performing maintenance in their garage on an internal combustion engine would encounter the need to measure the same tolerances, for example, adjusting valve clearances. This is a common and accessible measurement task.
Strictly speaking, it wouldn't. One of the interesting things the aviation industry deals with is a need for traceability of the metrology all the way back to NIST standards. That extra test, certification, and paperwork has a price. Compare the harbor freight example with this one: https://forneyonline.com/feeler-gauge-set-26-leaves-0015-to-...
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If you're into 3D Printing, feeler gauges are also a great way to level your bed... move the extruder 0.04 above the bed at four points, stick your 0.04 feeler under it and adjust the springs until it touches the feeler. Voila, one perfectly leveled 3D printer bed.
that's a weird in-between two more popular ways of doing it. The non-precise way you've already heard about, sheet of paper, check for dragging. The better (more precise) way, is using a magnetic base micrometer attached to your extruder head. You can then watch the bed run-out in real time; if your 3d printer supports many configurable sections across the bed ( I know Prusa style cartesian units mostly all support q…
Yeah, you're correct, it's a glass bed so I use it to do the 4 corners (every few months) and then use a BL touch to do a 3x3 grid on top of it.