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How to assess the quality of garments (2014)

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Re: How to assess the quality of garments (2014)

#111

Post by Aloha »

nextos wrote: post #63
jay_kyburz wrote: post #57

Earlier quoted context omitted.

What's even more frustrating is that its impossible to find even a brand that uses good quality fabrics all the time. Even expensive outdoor gear can be hit and miss.

Hope is not completely lost. Some crazy Japanese companies produce stuff with unbelievably good fabrics all the time. E.g. The Real McCoy's, Buzz Rickson, Studio D'Artisan and a few others. For cotton, many of their models are loopwheeled which is a fantastic low tension fabric that ages really well. All they are doing is to copy American techniques from the golden age of workwear and sportswear. In fact, they try to…

Just based on googling by and looking at the price, I don't think these brands are something the average HN reader buys.

Re: How to assess the quality of garments (2014)

#112

Post by ema »

benj111 wrote: post #93
kingludite wrote: post #50

I get what the article is getting at, its lovely for what it is trying to do. my take: Cloths are what people you meet look at. They create a mood in the spectator and leave an impression of who you are. First you have to figure out who you are, who you use to be and who you want to become. Who are the people you meet? they use to be what? who do you want them to be? After doing that you pick cloths that compliment t…

"a lederhose" Would it not still be lederhosen? Like trousers and not trouser. Although there is a place called Lederhose, so my etymology might be wrong, but Google isnt giving any trouser based results for Lederhose. Disclaimer, my German is nearly non existent.

no "lederhose" is correct, "lederhosen" would mean at least two of them. German doesn't share the peculiar feature of English where you refer to a thing in plural if it is made to contain two legs.

Now for the fun part, lederhosen are mostly a Bavarian thing and AFAIK in Bavarian you'd say lederhos'n. This is still however the singular form. So it is still this lederhos'n vs. these trousers.

Disclaimer, my Bavarian is nearly non existent.

Re: How to assess the quality of garments (2014)

#113

Post by Aloha »

nimbius wrote: post #39

Disclosure: I'm coming from a blue collar background as a master diesel mechanic Quality is build + aesthetic for me. Some brands i wear include Texas jeans, Chippewa boots, and all american clothing company. The quality from domestic apparel is in my experience massively superior to foreign brands. Carhartt jackets for winter are incredibly warm and gave great value, but their aesthetic isn't always popular. They la…

I love Wrangler western cut jeans as well, for similar reasons, they just last and last and last.

Re: How to assess the quality of garments (2014)

#114

Post by twic »

artsyca wrote: post #23

How refreshing to see something like this on HN; I want to iterate that there is an inextricable link between textiles and computer technology going back to the invention of the loom

Threads, spin locks, bytecode weaving, CUDA warps, switched fabrics ...

Re: How to assess the quality of garments (2014)

#115

Post by artsyca »

dlivingston wrote: post #17
dhd415 wrote: post #15

In a previous life when I wore suits to work on a frequent basis, I got interested in this topic and spent way too much time learning about it. I now have a closet full of quality clothes that I wear much less frequently, but, for whatever it's worth, they'll last me the rest of my life. There's a lot of good info in this article, but there's also a lot more beyond it. For example, it mentions (accurately) that the f…

Do you have any high-quality clothing stores that you recommend?

Brooks Brothers

Re: How to assess the quality of garments (2014)

#117

Post by krtkush »

mikekchar wrote: post #106
jancsika wrote: post #89

Earlier quoted context omitted.

> We need to know all the details, including the weave? You don't. In fact I'd argue that having access to the details makes you more likely to both choose the wrong garment and rationalize that wrong choice. > For someone that sweats a lot in hot & humid climates, why does one white cotton shirt show the sweat, and another doesn't? Branch one of this answer includes all kinds of details about thread count, thread le…

> don't wear cotton in hot & humid climates I seriously had to LOL at this. When I first moved to Japan, I was clueless. I live in a particularly hot and sunny part of Japan. During the rainy season, we sometimes have rain every day for a month (like this year :-P). It took having my clothes literally rot on the line before I understood this point. My predecessor (government program rotates foreigners to teach Englis…

> I'd give one other small piece of advice: buy clothes in areas that are famous for the weather you want to feel good in. Anybody wants a nice, not-bulky, warm winter coat: buy it in Canada. You want a nice summer suit for 100 degree F weather? Taiwan. You want a sweater for those cold rainy days? Scotland.

That's a nice start-up idea.

I can't afford to travel the world to do my seasonal shopping.

Re: How to assess the quality of garments (2014)

#118

Post by Pimpus »

dhd415 wrote: post #15

In a previous life when I wore suits to work on a frequent basis, I got interested in this topic and spent way too much time learning about it. I now have a closet full of quality clothes that I wear much less frequently, but, for whatever it's worth, they'll last me the rest of my life. There's a lot of good info in this article, but there's also a lot more beyond it. For example, it mentions (accurately) that the f…

> I now have a closet full of quality clothes that I wear much less frequently, but, for whatever it's worth, they'll last me the rest of my life.

> Or rather, they're expensive upfront but often turn out to be more economical over the life of the garment.

Okay, but this is assuming that your body composition does not change and the clothes continue to fit you. Your body is more important to how you look than the clothes you wear, so if you are logical then you place priority on continually improving your body composition.

The most salient factor when buying clothing is how they fit you and your wardrobe. Quality is important insofar as an article of clothing does not distort after a wash (washing properly is also important), but you should expect to discard after a season or two. Buying expensive clothing doesn't make logical or economic sense.

Re: How to assess the quality of garments (2014)

#119

Post by artsyca »

masklinn wrote: post #110
dhd415 wrote: post #15

In a previous life when I wore suits to work on a frequent basis, I got interested in this topic and spent way too much time learning about it. I now have a closet full of quality clothes that I wear much less frequently, but, for whatever it's worth, they'll last me the rest of my life. There's a lot of good info in this article, but there's also a lot more beyond it. For example, it mentions (accurately) that the f…

> Or rather, they're expensive upfront but often turn out to be more economical over the life of the garment. In either case, they will be more pleasant to wear than a lower quality alternative. Good ol' Vimes "Boots" Theory of Economic Injustice strikes again: > At the time of Men at Arms, Samuel Vimes earned thirty-eight dollars a month as a Captain of the Watch, plus allowances. A really good pair of leather boots…

Ever wonder if cheap commodity exporting countries might play this as a form of covert economic aggression?

Re: How to assess the quality of garments (2014)

#120

Post by deepakhj »

mc32 wrote: post #25
dhd415 wrote: post #15

In a previous life when I wore suits to work on a frequent basis, I got interested in this topic and spent way too much time learning about it. I now have a closet full of quality clothes that I wear much less frequently, but, for whatever it's worth, they'll last me the rest of my life. There's a lot of good info in this article, but there's also a lot more beyond it. For example, it mentions (accurately) that the f…

I think a rough proxy for fabric quality is the mill a textile comes from. Speaking in very general terms mills in Italy and Japan produce some good textiles (and not so good ones), but because they are expensive countries they tend to be on the higher end. Some east coast denim mills tend to be good too. Stitching done in Portugal is pretty good too. Of course, you can find good cheap tailors in underdeveloped count…

Taylor Stitch and Mission Workshop makes some of their clothing in Portugal.
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