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How the World's Most Difficult Bouldering Problems Get Made (2015)

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Re: How the World's Most Difficult Bouldering Problems Get Made (2015)

#21

Post by nlawalker »

justinator wrote: post #14
sixo wrote: post #4

In case anyone isn't already familiar with indoor bouldering, here's a great competition video: https://youtu.be/uHlV_nLLXLc?t=49 Cannot recommend bouldering enough. Problem-solving minds tend to love it.

I'd recommend anyone curious about bouldering get into simply top rope climbing first. Bouldering is HARD which isn't so much the real problem, but it can also be frustrating. Some problem solving strategies like throwing yourself into the problem (metaphorically)can result in nasty injuries and a short bouldering career. Get some easy climbing mileage!

Starting easy is definitely sage advice, but I like recommending bouldering for the simple fact that you can just go. You don't have to start by scheduling ahead and paying for a class, coming back the next day to get a belay card, and then finding a partner with an agreeable schedule (or scheduling and paying for a gym-staff belayer).

Most gyms are catering heavily to beginners nowadays and offer tons of beginner problems. If you've never been bouldering before and curiosity strikes on a Saturday morning, you can literally drive to a gym, sign a waiver, rent shoes, and start climbing the walls, usually for about $25 or less depending on your location.

Of course, this isn't without risk. If anyone reading this decides to do it, take at least a few minutes to learn the gym etiquette and start slow!

Re: How the World's Most Difficult Bouldering Problems Get Made (2015)

#22

Post by avs733 »

jimnotgym wrote: post #11
betenoire wrote: post #10

Earlier quoted context omitted.

It literally says those things. It says boulder problems go up to v16, and that they aim for v10 at the comp.

To save other Europeans a Google. V10 = 7c+ font. V16 = 8c+ font. Both grades I don't even aspire to! https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Grade_(bouldering)#Comparisons...

To save those who don't climb...

I've climbed most of my life...

I boulder three times a week and run 30 miles worth of trails a week . I can do pullups from my finger tips on a 'hangboard' (it's a training tool).

I climbed a V5 last week and was so happy I nearly cried.

These people are freaks in the most awe inspiring and amazing way I can possibly imagine.

Climbing competitions are worth watching just for the sheer amazement at what the human body can be trained to do. I use them at the beginning of classes because students usually just stop talking and watch in stunned silence.

Re: How the World's Most Difficult Bouldering Problems Get Made (2015)

#23

Post by brilee »

Konnstann wrote: post #6

As much as I like the article, the title is flat-out incorrect. The most difficult bouldering problems aren't found inside a gym, they are out in nature. World Cup problems average V10ish, whereas the top climbers project V16 outside.

>>> In the most difficult challenges of the event, the setters wanted to do more than just test the competitors’ forearm muscles; that’s a recipe for a tie, because all these athletes are ripped. Rather, they wanted to create a men’s problem in the realm of V10 or V11, but one that was inscrutable enough that there would be a few successes (“tops”), a few falls, and one hell of a show.

Re: How the World's Most Difficult Bouldering Problems Get Made (2015)

#24

Post by air7 »

avs733 wrote: post #22
jimnotgym wrote: post #11

Earlier quoted context omitted.

To save other Europeans a Google. V10 = 7c+ font. V16 = 8c+ font. Both grades I don't even aspire to! https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Grade_(bouldering)#Comparisons...

To save those who don't climb... I've climbed most of my life... I boulder three times a week and run 30 miles worth of trails a week . I can do pullups from my finger tips on a 'hangboard' (it's a training tool). I climbed a V5 last week and was so happy I nearly cried. These people are freaks in the most awe inspiring and amazing way I can possibly imagine. Climbing competitions are worth watching just for the shee…

> These people are freaks in the most awe inspiring and amazing way I can possibly imagine.

I went to youtube to find out what you mean. Didn't need to search for long. Here's one example. I don't know what grade this is but the climb is definitely freaky.

https://youtu.be/4QrvLoxFAM4?t=180

Re: How the World's Most Difficult Bouldering Problems Get Made (2015)

#26

Post by bmj »

avs733 wrote: post #22
jimnotgym wrote: post #11

Earlier quoted context omitted.

To save other Europeans a Google. V10 = 7c+ font. V16 = 8c+ font. Both grades I don't even aspire to! https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Grade_(bouldering)#Comparisons...

To save those who don't climb... I've climbed most of my life... I boulder three times a week and run 30 miles worth of trails a week . I can do pullups from my finger tips on a 'hangboard' (it's a training tool). I climbed a V5 last week and was so happy I nearly cried. These people are freaks in the most awe inspiring and amazing way I can possibly imagine. Climbing competitions are worth watching just for the shee…

Having seen a national level competition up close and personal (and seen very good boulderers do V13+ on real rock), the most impressive thing to experience is their sheer determination. Yes, you can tell they are trying hard when watching a video, but it's just different seeing it in person.

Re: How the World's Most Difficult Bouldering Problems Get Made (2015)

#27

Post by enraged_camel »

I'm the founder and organizer of the Bouldering in Austin meetup. We are a little over a year old and recently surpassed 500 members.

If any Austinites want to try it out, either as beginners or experienced climbers, give me a holler. :)

https://www.meetup.com/Bouldering-in-Austin/

Re: How the World's Most Difficult Bouldering Problems Get Made (2015)

#28

Post by Fricken »

air7 wrote: post #24
avs733 wrote: post #22

Earlier quoted context omitted.

To save those who don't climb... I've climbed most of my life... I boulder three times a week and run 30 miles worth of trails a week . I can do pullups from my finger tips on a 'hangboard' (it's a training tool). I climbed a V5 last week and was so happy I nearly cried. These people are freaks in the most awe inspiring and amazing way I can possibly imagine. Climbing competitions are worth watching just for the shee…

> These people are freaks in the most awe inspiring and amazing way I can possibly imagine. I went to youtube to find out what you mean. Didn't need to search for long. Here's one example. I don't know what grade this is but the climb is definitely freaky. https://youtu.be/4QrvLoxFAM4?t=180

I'm not sure there's a sport that puts so much emphasis on pushing the upper limits of human strength within a single muscle group (the fingers). Check out this video of Jan Hojer training, it really makes it clear just how ridiculously, absurdly, otherworldly strong elite boulderers can be:

https://youtu.be/DFojqoAfJ7g

And in top competition bouldering the problems aren't just physically hard, they are also fiendishly difficult puzzles to solve.

Re: How the World's Most Difficult Bouldering Problems Get Made (2015)

#29

Post by starpilot »

jimnotgym wrote: post #12

I'm a fat-old-man in climbing terms. I still prefer the mental challenge of trad leading (although I haven't done much recently) to bouldering. The zen like state of staying calm while placing gear that your life depends on is quite something to me. Whereas bouldering is an art form of movement... and one I suck at...but it never appealed to me in the same way

I struggle to get enthusiastic about outdoor bouldering. I've done it in Bishop, Squamish and just get demoralized after getting shutdown on V1 problems after 3+ attempts. Love trad though.

Re: How the World's Most Difficult Bouldering Problems Get Made (2015)

#30

Post by TomVDB »

sixo wrote: post #4

In case anyone isn't already familiar with indoor bouldering, here's a great competition video: https://youtu.be/uHlV_nLLXLc?t=49 Cannot recommend bouldering enough. Problem-solving minds tend to love it.

That was an awesome move at the end!

I loved rock climbing, but overdid it by doing it 2 times per week in combination with squash and badminton. Too much for the tendons of my arms, and it never really went away.

One of my favorite childhood memories was going to Fontainebleau, just south or Paris. They have fantastic outdoor bouldering there.

25 years later I went back there for my honeymoon and it was just a great as I remembered.

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