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How the World's Most Difficult Bouldering Problems Get Made (2015)

outsideonline.com

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Re: How the World's Most Difficult Bouldering Problems Get Made (2015)

#11

Post by jimnotgym »

betenoire wrote: post #10
Konnstann wrote: post #6

As much as I like the article, the title is flat-out incorrect. The most difficult bouldering problems aren't found inside a gym, they are out in nature. World Cup problems average V10ish, whereas the top climbers project V16 outside.

It literally says those things. It says boulder problems go up to v16, and that they aim for v10 at the comp.

To save other Europeans a Google. V10 = 7c+ font. V16 = 8c+ font.

Both grades I don't even aspire to!

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Grade_(bouldering)#Comparisons...

Re: How the World's Most Difficult Bouldering Problems Get Made (2015)

#12

Post by jimnotgym »

I'm a fat-old-man in climbing terms. I still prefer the mental challenge of trad leading (although I haven't done much recently) to bouldering. The zen like state of staying calm while placing gear that your life depends on is quite something to me. Whereas bouldering is an art form of movement... and one I suck at...but it never appealed to me in the same way

Re: How the World's Most Difficult Bouldering Problems Get Made (2015)

#14

Post by justinator »

sixo wrote: post #4

In case anyone isn't already familiar with indoor bouldering, here's a great competition video: https://youtu.be/uHlV_nLLXLc?t=49 Cannot recommend bouldering enough. Problem-solving minds tend to love it.

I'd recommend anyone curious about bouldering get into simply top rope climbing first. Bouldering is HARD which isn't so much the real problem, but it can also be frustrating. Some problem solving strategies like throwing yourself into the problem (metaphorically)can result in nasty injuries and a short bouldering career.

Get some easy climbing mileage!

Re: How the World's Most Difficult Bouldering Problems Get Made (2015)

#15

Post by justinator »

If one likes the "bouldering is problem solving like programming is problem solving" paradigm, you may enjoy training tools like the Moon Board, which is an array of holds spaced out uniformly with problems programmed in using LEDs (use only the holds where the LEDs are on). You can share the same problem around the world- anywhere there's another moonboard, and collaborate that way.

https://www.moonboard.com

Re: How the World's Most Difficult Bouldering Problems Get Made (2015)

#16

Post by justinator »

mholt wrote: post #8

I recently got into climbing (+ bouldering). Although I get super bored at regular gyms, I never bore of climbing, I think, because it's like programming -- for the body. Problem solving applied to an element that is both sociable and physical.

There's freedom in it: sometimes I wanna play chess; other times: just checkers.

Re: How the World's Most Difficult Bouldering Problems Get Made (2015)

#17

Post by justinator »

jimnotgym wrote: post #12

I'm a fat-old-man in climbing terms. I still prefer the mental challenge of trad leading (although I haven't done much recently) to bouldering. The zen like state of staying calm while placing gear that your life depends on is quite something to me. Whereas bouldering is an art form of movement... and one I suck at...but it never appealed to me in the same way

I share your sentiment. Though I find bouldering good practice for hard sequences in roped climbing. My philosophy has been " if you can't climb the crux, you can't climb the route!"

I don't do many outdoor activities where this same concept holds up. Like if I'm mountain biking and can't clear a section cleanly, I can still ride the rest of the trail. That's not always so in climbing (even when aiding through)

Re: How the World's Most Difficult Bouldering Problems Get Made (2015)

#18

Post by codetrotter »

Climbing is a lot of fun. It is talked about on HN occasionally but IMO not often enough. Hope to see more submissions about climbing on HN!

Oh and if anyone ITT is in the proximity of Gjøvik, Norway (slim chance) and would like to climb, message me on Mastodon. @codetrotter@vis.social

I am a bit out of shape but I belay safely and communicate well and that’s what matters the most when we climb single pitch, isn’t it ;)

Though of course it is preferable to climb with someone on about the same level to minimize the amount of switching back and forth between routes.

Re: How the World's Most Difficult Bouldering Problems Get Made (2015)

#19

Post by bacon_waffle »

jimnotgym wrote: post #12

I'm a fat-old-man in climbing terms. I still prefer the mental challenge of trad leading (although I haven't done much recently) to bouldering. The zen like state of staying calm while placing gear that your life depends on is quite something to me. Whereas bouldering is an art form of movement... and one I suck at...but it never appealed to me in the same way

Same here. Plus, when I was more in to that scene, it seemed like a disproportionate number of folks got injuries from bouldering vs free climbing.

Re: How the World's Most Difficult Bouldering Problems Get Made (2015)

#20

Post by avs733 »

Konnstann wrote: post #6

As much as I like the article, the title is flat-out incorrect. The most difficult bouldering problems aren't found inside a gym, they are out in nature. World Cup problems average V10ish, whereas the top climbers project V16 outside.

I understand your point but sometimes it is useful for authors to take a little artistic license. They are clear on the ratings of the problems and the challenges of setting for the world cup. To an extent, these are the hardest problems of their type in the world...because they are for the hardest climbing competition in the world.

Sure they aren't Silence, but most common folk would probably conflate 'problems for the world championship' with 'hardest' and to communicate to that audience the artistic license seems to me to have merit.

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