Earlier quoted context omitted.
You can look at it today, it will be mostly the same: hacks, inscrutable configuration, custom overrides for stupid things etc. etc. etc. I just looked at it a minute ago. As for the rest you are equally wrong in anything from assuming that webpack 3 made configuration easier to assuming that configuration became easier just because CRA hides all this complexity from us.
You don't need to deal with the configuration for 80% of the use cases. If you need something custom, it's a good investment to learn the tool you are depending, and I don't think it's inscrutable: https://webpack.js.org/concepts/
There's only so many hours in the day. There are better things in life than to fight a build tool.