31–40 of 122 posts
This seems to be an exhaustive-search combination lock solver. Someone else has built one that not only manipulates the lock, but uses a contact microphone to listen to it. But I can't find the reference.
Somebody dumb enough to leave a key to their house right next to their house in a city like SF deserves to get burglarized.
Gotta love this attitude, which is widely shared by Bay Area media and law enforcement. - "You shouldn't have parked there. " - "You shouldn't have left anything visible in your vehicle." - "You shouldn't have left anything in visible in the trunk, either." As for "key right next to house" how else do you propose letting agents show your property to prospective buyers or tenants? In SF, property crimes don't matter.…
Yeah, this attitude in the Bay Area has also befuddled me too. Its the victims fault.
Here's a commercial version. [1] This seems to be an exhaustive-search combination lock solver. Someone else has built one that not only manipulates the lock, but uses a contact microphone to listen to it. But I can't find the reference. [1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fIavLorioys
Here's a commercial version. [1] This seems to be an exhaustive-search combination lock solver. Someone else has built one that not only manipulates the lock, but uses a contact microphone to listen to it. But I can't find the reference. [1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fIavLorioys
A key element of this is it's ability to limit the amount of possible combinations from 1 million to about 1000 due to small flaws in the dials. A contact microphone might be able to even further reduce this search space in combination with the existing exploits.
Earlier quoted context omitted.
Gotta love this attitude, which is widely shared by Bay Area media and law enforcement. - "You shouldn't have parked there. " - "You shouldn't have left anything visible in your vehicle." - "You shouldn't have left anything in visible in the trunk, either." As for "key right next to house" how else do you propose letting agents show your property to prospective buyers or tenants? In SF, property crimes don't matter.…
- "You shouldn't have been driving a car without bullet proof glass" Yeah, this attitude in the Bay Area has also befuddled me too. Its the victims fault.
You'll be spending money to replace the stolen items, presumably some of that locally, and on repairs, presumably all locally. Meanwhile, whatever money the criminals get back in selling the stolen items (and subsequent profits by their fences) will also presumably be spent locally.
Earlier quoted context omitted.
Depends on where you are. UL ratings are used in north america. There are similar EU ratings that I dont recall of hand. TL ratings are for theft/entry resistance. There are other modifiers for fire, water, chemical, etc resistance. Unrated "safes", and even some that are said to be rated, are junk. In NA you want to get in touch with a local safe dealer/specialist. Most of their business is commercial, and they are…
This leads me to believe that if I am renting an apartment, I am SOL.
I love this frank response from the safe manufacturer: '... speaking to Wired magazine earlier this month, when the team demonstrated its method on a smaller safe, a spokeswoman for the safe maker said: "In this environment, the product accomplished what it was designed to do."'
It is designed to trick people into building robots to open it? :-) More seriously though, I consulted a friend and neighbor when buying a safe for my home. This person who owns a locksmith shop and is a registered locksmith (and has been for > 20 years) asked me to look up the median response time of the police to my address. Since I live near the police station it was fairly small. He said you only need a safe that…
Earlier quoted context omitted.
Depends on where you are. UL ratings are used in north america. There are similar EU ratings that I dont recall of hand. TL ratings are for theft/entry resistance. There are other modifiers for fire, water, chemical, etc resistance. Unrated "safes", and even some that are said to be rated, are junk. In NA you want to get in touch with a local safe dealer/specialist. Most of their business is commercial, and they are…
Would fast and heavy internal gyros be a feasible alternative to bolting? I'm thinking that if the safe cannot be reoriented across all three axis, it'll be very hard to move.
It's a cool robot, but auto-dialers are a known tool in safecracking. Additionally, the safe in question seems to be a SentrySafe SF082CS, which caries NO security rating from UL. The lowest test rating, RSC, only requires the safe survive a 5 minute attack with hand tools.
How do I find a UL-security-rated safe? Does it matter if I don't bolt it to the floor?
Earlier quoted context omitted.
Depends on where you are. UL ratings are used in north america. There are similar EU ratings that I dont recall of hand. TL ratings are for theft/entry resistance. There are other modifiers for fire, water, chemical, etc resistance. Unrated "safes", and even some that are said to be rated, are junk. In NA you want to get in touch with a local safe dealer/specialist. Most of their business is commercial, and they are…
This leads me to believe that if I am renting an apartment, I am SOL.
Not at all! If you're renting in a high-rise building, the floors will be concrete below the laminate or hardwood. A good safe will have either 4 holes or 1 center hole in the base to allow you to anchor it to the floor. Use a concrete drill bit to drill a hole in your apartment floor in a discreet area, like in a closet or laundry room. If you can borrow a hammer drill it'll be faster, but even an ordinary drill will work, though slower. Make sure you buy a concrete drill bit.
Then attach the safe using concrete screws and anchors. You can use either a self-tapping concrete screw or, better, put the correct size expanding sleeve into the hole first[1]. Even with a single concrete anchor/screw, the safe will be 100 times more difficult to steal. I've seen expensive TL-15 safes ($5000+) with only one center hole in the base, so I assume the manufacturer thought that was sufficient (if properly anchored).
Before you place the safe, put down a sheet of plastic or a very thin patch of carpet to protect the laminate or hardwood floor. Cut holes in the plastic sheet or carpet for the concrete screws.
When you move out of your rented apartment, fill the holes with putty matching the color of the laminate or hardwood floor. If you make a small effort at patching up, the holes will be invisible.
One more piece of advice: The drilling won't take long, but it'll be very loud. If you have a nosy landlord or superintendent, do the drilling when he's not around. A superintendent, for example, is unlikely to work on a Saturday or Sunday.
Also, cover the safe with a sheet or blanket, so if someone casually looks in your closet or laundry room, the safe won't be noticed.
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