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Saving the Swiss Watch Industry Again

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Re: Saving the Swiss Watch Industry Again

#41
My annoyance with watches is that I have tiny wrists (even when I was in my twenties and could deadlift more than 500lbs... my wrist have been pathetically small).

I have accepted my small wrists but have yet to see a form factor of almost any watch that is acceptable given that I'm a male and want it either genderless or somewhat masculine themed.

The one exception is the fitbit (which I don't have as I'm still waiting for the tech to improve on those guys).

Re: Saving the Swiss Watch Industry Again

#42
post #15

Why saving it? Mechanical watches fall into the same category of crappy swank for poor people as golden jewelry and chains. Swag for salesmans from office ghettos. Even design of these watches is complete postmodernist nonsense. Lots of clock hands, bells and whistles, glittery things.

I use an automatic watch because I don't want to have to charge it every 2 days (or even change the batteries), and all I need is the time and date. I also don't want to have to debug my watch every time an update or app breaks it, it's just one less thing to worry about.

I like my automatic watches but when you dont wear them after 3 days, you always have to reset.....eally annoying

Re: Saving the Swiss Watch Industry Again

#43

Earlier quoted context omitted.

The Apple Watch is out selling every luxury brand except Rolex. Definitely a generation shift here

I don't see how that's relevant. A luxury watch is typically ten times the price, serves a different purpose and should last 50 years.

Until the new generation of rich drop that money on an apple watch and tesla ii instead

Re: Saving the Swiss Watch Industry Again

#44

Earlier quoted context omitted.

The Apple Watch is out selling every luxury brand except Rolex. Definitely a generation shift here

I still wear my grandfather's old Speedmaster from time to time, on family holidays mostly. I would be very surprised if my grandchildren could still wear a functioning Apple Watch I buy today fifty years from now.

Or they could end up unused in dresser while they use the latest smartwatch.

Re: Saving the Swiss Watch Industry Again

#45

Earlier quoted context omitted.

I still wear my grandfather's old Speedmaster from time to time, on family holidays mostly. I would be very surprised if my grandchildren could still wear a functioning Apple Watch I buy today fifty years from now.

For that matter, I would be very surprised if a non-functioning Apple Watch could be repaired easily 50 years from now. Mechanical watches are easily "debuggable" and repairable since they are very... physical in nature. A set of small hand tools and a good magnifier usually suffice; and even parts no longer available can be relatively easily fabricated --- maybe even more easily with future technologies.

While true in general, let me present a counterpoint to that.

With mechanical watches, it is not easy at all. Maybe if you take a simple hand wind large pocket watch (fewer parts, larger parts are easier to work with, higher tolerances), then yes, but this is the "easy mode". As in electronics, equivalent of maybe Atari 2600, which you can fix with huge transformer-type soldering gun and 30-ish USD multimeters and 60-ish USD oscilloscopes. But try taking this approach to miniaturized SoC in a phone or even a smartwatch... In watches, take an automatic watch (with weight and gears which winds it up during wearing), date, maybe chronograph, moonphase, power reserve indicator, ... It will come apart to dozens of parts, some of which require special handling (hairspring), you need to lubricate all the required points, each with designated oils (maybe three different oils per watch!). Doable, but you need good knowledge, skills and expensive and maintained set of tools (e.g. look up Bergeon prices). You will also want a vibrograph and regulate the watch in different positions. If you create even a 0,1 % deviation, you are 1.5 minute off in 24 hours, 43 minutes in a month.

Yes, mechanical watch will keep for 50, even 100 years, but you are expected to have it serviced every 5 years or so and the service means disassembling it into parts and putting them back together (starting at maybe 150 USD even for 70 USD automatic watch). If you don't do that, they may work for 20 and more years, but it is hit or miss, they will wear out more and eventually when something seizes up or breaks, it will require much greater overhaul, replacing (more) parts.

An Apple Watch may be difficult to repair now because it is so miniature and modern and it is simply cheaper to throw it away and replace it with new one (this is the same with quartz calibers and mechanical watches with still-in-manufacture calibers priced less than the cost of full service).

But in 50 years, this may well flip around. As for mechanical watches, the watchmaking is somehow in demise. In our (EU) country, 20-30 years ago, a watchmaker in every larger city could service mechanical watches. Now they only change straps and batteries, maybe change entire caliber and many "modern" watch service shops (stalls in shopping malls) only change batteries. ADs (authorized dealers) all work with a single person in the entire country or even send their watches abroad. How many skilled watchmakers will be there in 50 years (two generations)? In how many countries? What will be the prices?

As for smartwatches, in 50 years we may have 3D printers spitting out entire watch-sized circuits, cheap hobbyist home-grade SMT robots, miniature FPGA capable of running entire current systems... Much like you can now repair or rebuild game consoles from 70s, 80s or 90s using cheap tools, easily available parts, 3D print a new case, or even make them into a handheld with no problems (e.g. see Ben Heckendorn's projects).

Re: Saving the Swiss Watch Industry Again

#46

"The most resilient part of the industry is that you buy a Swiss watch because you want to say, 'I have a Swiss watch,'" said Paul Swinand" I love mechanical watches. I repair watches. I love all things related to horology. That said, if I bought a new Rolex, I really wouldn't own the watch the minute it went out of warranty. What? Yea, Rolex, and 99% of the other Swiss Watch Companies will not sell parts to their cu…

It's not the least bit surprising that a company like Rolex would not sell parts directly to customers. I imagine that 99% of the time that would end disastrously, and they would have quite a lot of customers who haphazardly dismantle their watches and then are unable to properly clean, lube, reassemble, and test them. Once that happens, you know who the customer is going to blame. This is exactly why companies like Apple are happy to sell you an iPhone but are NOT going to sell you a single capacitor or wire, or even a complete circuit board. Do you think Apple is going to sell you individual parts for that Apple Watch?

Continuing with your example, getting a Rolex serviced by skilled third party technicians, using genuine Rolex parts (because Rolex is happy to sell parts directly to qualified technicians), is not a problem. There are dozens of highly recommended shops in the US alone, e.g. https://www.bobswatches.com/more/watch-repair-service.

Re: Saving the Swiss Watch Industry Again

#47

"The most resilient part of the industry is that you buy a Swiss watch because you want to say, 'I have a Swiss watch,'" said Paul Swinand" I love mechanical watches. I repair watches. I love all things related to horology. That said, if I bought a new Rolex, I really wouldn't own the watch the minute it went out of warranty. What? Yea, Rolex, and 99% of the other Swiss Watch Companies will not sell parts to their cu…

Really? I thought everyone that owns a mechanical watch knows that they have to send it in for a $700 servicing every ~5 years.

You don't have to send it to Switzerland or even to a local dealer. There are a lot of reputable, independent vendors that will service, for example, a Submariner, for a fraction of what Rolex would charge.

Re: Saving the Swiss Watch Industry Again

#48

Earlier quoted context omitted.

I still wear my grandfather's old Speedmaster from time to time, on family holidays mostly. I would be very surprised if my grandchildren could still wear a functioning Apple Watch I buy today fifty years from now.

Or they could end up unused in dresser while they use the latest smartwatch.

In the end, I guess it comes down to how acceptable a real watch is as compared to a smartwatch in your social setting.

For instance, I wouldn't be caught dead with a smartwatch when visiting customers (mostly real estate companies who I write software for) the same way I wouldn't be caught wearing a mankini.

I also would not be caught without a timepiece, simply because it appears unprofessional.

I do think the kind (or lack of)of watch a person wears says something about them, much like the kind of clothing does - and I share that kind of sentiment with a lot of people.

Re: Saving the Swiss Watch Industry Again

#49
post #6

I used to be a watch fan. Not hardcore - I didn't collect or anything, but I liked good quality quartz watches. Then I got given a Huawei smartwatch as a gift. It's good . Firstly, it looks nice. Maybe not as good as a high-end Swiss watch, but it's much nicer than a Pebble (I think it's nicer than a iWatch, but YMMV). Also, changing faces is fun. Secondly, it's amazingly useful. I can be in a meeting or talking to s…

> Also, the battery life is really good. I went away and forgot my charger and got 2 1/2 days out of it. I'm surprised that they can sell 2 days battery as a feature and have people swallow it. What's written behind my watch: "10 year battery life".

Yes, it surprised me too. I've got that written on a number of watches that I never wear anymore.

I thought it would be really annoying - who wants to worry about charging a watch, right?

I was wrong. I've never really noticed it - I never have liked sleeping with a watch, so dropping in on the charger was roughly the same as what I was doing anyway.

I travel a reasonable amount, and remembering the custom charger is the only real annoyance I've found with it.

I'm old enough to remember when phones went weeks between charges. I guess we can adapt pretty easily.

Re: Saving the Swiss Watch Industry Again

#50
post #41

My annoyance with watches is that I have tiny wrists (even when I was in my twenties and could deadlift more than 500lbs... my wrist have been pathetically small). I have accepted my small wrists but have yet to see a form factor of almost any watch that is acceptable given that I'm a male and want it either genderless or somewhat masculine themed. The one exception is the fitbit (which I don't have as I'm still wait…

You would be in luck with many vintage watches. They are often much smaller (30mm-ish compared to today's minimum 40-42) and there is huge variety.

I have several vintage watches (mostly 50's and 60's), and a few are just a tad small for my average-sized wrist. I particularly like two Lord Elgins I have but never wear, sadly.

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