Earlier quoted context omitted.
"I'm personally very skeptical [as well]. I notice that almost nobody that recounts their fasting experience ever mentions sport." Allow me to step right up. First, as you might expect, aerobic and endurance exercise benefits greatly from being in a fasted (16-24 hr) state. You're light, quick and your body is devoting zero blood flow (and other resources) to digestion. I suspect you're not surprised by this. Second,…
First, as you might expect, aerobic and endurance exercise benefits greatly from being in a fasted (16-24 hr) state If that's true, why isn't it a universal practice in amateur and professional athletic competition? (Or, for that matter, why isn't it banned?)
When you are right at the edge of your abilities being just a couple pounds lighter can feel like a world of difference (people hone down their rack to precisely what they need for a route, nothing more), especially on sport and boulder problems. My anecdata points to it being great for the project/performative aspects of the sport but as a tool for consistent progression/improvement, I am less confident in stating anything.