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List of screw drives

en.wikipedia.org

81–90 of 263 posts

Re: List of screw drives

#81
post #13
post #7

Do you find yourself stripping Phillips head acres frequently? That is because you are confusing Phillips and Pozidriv heads. They look similar but have a different head and different amount of engagement. I just bought myself some Wiha drivers after years of using shitty tools. I am so much happier now.

From http://www.finehomebuilding.com/2015/09/16/what-is-the-diffe... : "A Phillips bit fits in a Pozidriv screw head, but it will most likely cam out before the fastener is fully tight. This can damage the fastener and is why that cup hinge loosens up so quickly when a Phillips bit is used. A Pozidriv bit does not fit in a Phillips screw."

> A Pozidriv bit does not fit in a Phillips screw[citation needed]

A Pozidriv bit fits in a philips juuuust well enough for you to not notice it's the wrong bit.

Re: List of screw drives

#82
post #7

Do you find yourself stripping Phillips head acres frequently? That is because you are confusing Phillips and Pozidriv heads. They look similar but have a different head and different amount of engagement. I just bought myself some Wiha drivers after years of using shitty tools. I am so much happier now.

pozidrive is pretty easy to distinguish because it's got the little star point deals. Like this:

https://www.belmetric.com/images/MSOVAL5X50SS%20Machine%20Sc...

They are becoming more common; my latest ikea thing came with some, but it's pretty visually obvious, is all I'm saying. Once you know what they are, you aren't gonna get it mixed up.

JIS vs Phillips, on the other hand, is usually way less clear cut. I mean, JIS is supposed to have the dimple, but it doesn't always, and figuring out which of your screwdrivers is the JIS is even harder. (I personally am having a hard time finding JIS screwdrivers that are... decent. most of the sets I see that are clearly marked are really low end sets from Hozan (which is a fine tool company, it's just that the JIS screwdriver sets I see that are clearly marked as such are... pretty low end compared to my wera/whia/xcelite drivers.

Re: List of screw drives

#83
post #72
post #68

The only real reason for Phillips screw heads were the old electromechanical industry robots that would rely on auto-centering and spring tension to pop the driver out of the screw against a switch at the set torque. Modern (since 1980s or so) industry robots are computer-driven and torque-sensing. Phillips (and Pozidriv) needs to die in favor of modern superior screw drive designs like Torx.

Out of interest what is better about Torx? With "normal" screws you can usually improvise something when you are without tools.

You can usually "improvise" with a torx using a flat head screwdriver - it it locks in place it will turn.

Re: List of screw drives

#84
post #59
post #7

Do you find yourself stripping Phillips head acres frequently? That is because you are confusing Phillips and Pozidriv heads. They look similar but have a different head and different amount of engagement. I just bought myself some Wiha drivers after years of using shitty tools. I am so much happier now.

IMHO, the Phillips head is pure evil and persists mostly because it’s one of the best ways to cause consumer-induced early obsolescence in any product that requires assembly by the end-consumer. It’s a huge unspoken conspiracy in the manufacturing world: “You supply Phillips screws. I supply Phillips screws. Everybody supplies Phillips screws. Everybody stays happy (except the consumers).” “You stripped the screw hea…

I can only agree, Pozidriv is so much better! I recently bought specifically both philips and pozi head screwdrivers, and Ive generally had both before but it still a hassle to always select the right one.

Re: List of screw drives

#85

Earlier quoted context omitted.

> After all, most screws will never be unscrewed. That's because they don't want you to unscrew them. There's a bit of a feedback loop here - the less user-serviceable stuff you make, the less users expect to be able to fix things themselves, so there's less need to make next things user-serviceable.

Totally. I'm a bit shocked how effective this is. For years the sight of a torx or rarer socket would stop me from even thinking about opening a device. I don't know if it was impossible to find before but today you can buy most heads easily. And when you think about it, it's just a damn contact surface for a lever.. don't stop (unless there's a real safety hazard)

I find this to be really weird... Anyone who has worked on vehicles knows the importance of getting the exact right tool to unfasten a fastener (and the... consequences of using something that "almost works" - usually meaning you have to spend hours trying to get the fastener out)

I mean, sure, you need tools to open things up... but the right bit is about a thousand times more important than an expensive bit, and for $10, you can get a huge assortment of cheap bits that are good enough for the home gamer.

This always baffled me about the apple pentalobe haters... I mean, using a different screwdriver head is not the unfriendly part of taking an apple apart. The glued-in bits are the unfriendly part.

Re: List of screw drives

#86
post #38
post #2

It's remarkable that pretty much every feasible design has some traction. You might expect it to be winner-take-all.

We're probably at 80% Phillips, 15% flat head, 5% everything else, though.

That largely depends on which country you're looking at, which industry you're looking at, and whether or not you recognise the difference between Phillips and pozidriv.

Re: List of screw drives

#87
I had to buy a set of tripoint drivers to open up and work on Gameboys. That was annoying (I've never seen them anywhere else).

For some reason my RV (an old 1984 Avion) uses Robertson screws nearly everywhere, which is actually nice. The big chunky square holds up to rust and corrosion better than Phillips. Kinda wish more things used Robertson.

Re: List of screw drives

#88
post #61

Earlier quoted context omitted.

They do. Cars are engineered to fail and some models are sold even at loss to get the profit from OEM parts and service. This is also often the reason why seemingly similar parts are incompatible from one model to the next; the manufacturers are racing against the (often much more durable) aftermarket parts. If they were in the business of making cars great for the consumers, they'd engineer them strong with grease f…

And yet, cars still last for two decades or more if maintained properly, and are IMO some of the most reliable pieces of gear out there - I'm finding newer models to be better in that regard than older ones (but maybe that's bias on my side, I haven't driven older cars in a while now)

Yes, if maintained properly, which means swapping out these engineered to fail parts every so often, which becomes uneconomical at least in the resale sense at some point in time, because the repaired car resale value is less than the cost of repair. For instance on VAG cars, the designed to fail cash-cow parts are typically the various suspension bushings. Once such a part is worn out, resulting in a part that has excessive backlash, it'll cause prematurely worn out parts in the rest of the system it's a part of as well.

My daily driver is a 25 year old car that I'm keeping on preventive maintenance. I got it when it was 16 years old and still in pretty good shape since it was barely used and always kept in a warm garage. I've always had pretty old, but well maintained cars in order to minimize the total cost of ownership of them, and kept them running until something too difficult or expensive breaks. I never value them for what I'd get for selling them, because I've never sold a car nor planned to. To me, the car value is always the utility and TCO value of knowing the state of them via preventive maintenance repairs. Usually the failing part not worth fixing is the body, either due to a collision or rust damage.

In addition to always inspecting an used car from underneath, a thing I learned early was to replace all the cash-cow OEM parts with upgraded parts when possible. If not, at least try to have repaired parts made that are improved at the point of failure to be stronger than OEM parts, so that they don't fail the same way again. Factoring the preventive repair into the price of the used car is required in order to be sure to afford owning the car. After that initial preventive repair, it's about checking the parts stay like new, or it becomes very expensive to keep very quickly once something fails after a part's worn out.

Anyhow, look at farm equipment, mine equipment and such to see what vehicles not engineered to fail are constructed like, and I don't mean the extra robustness of the loadbearing parts for the much larger workloads they're designed for.

Re: List of screw drives

#89
Once I found that a simple, cheap clothes iron was defended against would-be worn wire fixers (me) by a flat screw slot with a protruding center pin.

Fortunately I had a small sharp file to cut a notch in a cheap flat-bladed screwdriver, and all was well. The device doesn't seem to be listed here.

Re: List of screw drives

#90
post #54

Earlier quoted context omitted.

> We even have mixtures of US and metric in some products! In North America, tire sizes are given in millimeter width, but imperial mounting diameter. E.g. 175-65R14: 175mm width, 65% aspect ratio (sidewall height to width or something like that), for a 14" wheel.

That's not even a North America only thing, as far as I know the format mm-%R/D" (175-65R14) is used universal. Of course only vintage cars have diagonal tires now so you will probably not see a tire with D

Can confirm: Car and motorcycle tires are measured in inch diameter, bicycle tires are measured in inch circumference.
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