Live data from Hacker News

We need physical audio kill switches

rubenerd.com

431–440 of 443 posts

Re: We need physical audio kill switches

#431
post #280

Earlier quoted context omitted.

Wouldn’t the switches just be placed in the boxes for the old switches? Burying a switch as you describe is against code in the US and I assume other countries.

He's taking the ball and running with it

also he seems to think that people put up multiple layers of drywall like it's wallpaper?

Re: We need physical audio kill switches

#432
This sounds like an XY problem. What you want is for your ears to not be hurt by loud sounds. Physical audio kill switches is one solution but I can think of many others that I personally would prefer. One thing that comes to mind is a system that monitors the audio output and keeps that from exceeding some predefined maximum.

Re: We need physical audio kill switches

#433
post #304

Earlier quoted context omitted.

Personal attacks will get you banned on HN, so please don't do that here. Also can you please stop posting in the flamewar style? You've done it repeatedly lately, and it's against the site rules because we're trying for something a bit different on this site. If you wouldn't mind reviewing https://news.ycombinator.com/newsguidelines.html and posting in the intended spirit, we'd be grateful.

Sorry, I caused offence and will be more careful.

Appreciated!

Re: We need physical audio kill switches

#434
post #90

Since the user is complaining about the way Mac OS handles the audio buttons, I'm surprised that he doesn't mention the problems with HDMI. I don't understand why the OS disables the audio controls of HDMI outputs. If I press the volume down button, I want the volume to go down. Instead, I get a "I can't let you do that" warning! This is particularly bad if I have my headphones connected to the display (I have both m…

Yeah that is really annoying.

You can install https://github.com/MonitorControl/MonitorControl with uses Display Data Channel (DDC) to let you adjust volume and brightness on external monitors. It works for my monitor at least.

Re: We need physical audio kill switches

#435
post #241

Earlier quoted context omitted.

Maglite flashlights behave as you describe - you turn the head to turn on/off and change intensity or pattern https://www.amazon.com/s?k=maglite

Unless something's changed since I bought my big maglite, the outer ring only controls the beam pattern, and the button just gives you on and off. Things might have got fancier in the meanwhile, but mine still does what it needs to.

Modern ones work as you describe, but you can also press the button multiple times quickly when first turning it on to control the brightness. One press for bright, "double-click" for average, "triple-click" for dim.

Re: We need physical audio kill switches

#436

Earlier quoted context omitted.

For many people, the convenience of touch controls outweigh the negatives. They're easier to clean and they can look nicer. Not that it's always a good idea to use them though.

It is technically possible to build touch controls offering comparable UX to their analogue counterparts. Smartphones have done it since 2007. Why do stoves still force users to sequentially step through 14 settings using shitty +/- buttons in order to get what they want?

When I adjust the temperature in the car, change the volume on the stereo or change the heat output of a gas burner - they can all be done by touch controls, but the closest to something that might provide as good a UX I have ever experienced is the touch pad on newer macbooks.

Re: We need physical audio kill switches

#437
post #63

Earlier quoted context omitted.

I've seen/heard this in $100 units from Schiit. Not to mention the poor hand soldering job that cost more money because a human did it in America.

Send 'em an email. Their $100 units are some of the best testing amps/dacs in the price range, so even from a purely subjectivist standpoint they make stuff that generally works pretty well. If you're encountering issues, then they will usually make good on it. The stereo imbalance is just something you're gonna see at basically every amp at that price point.

I got the Modi2/Magni2 set for my HD650s when they originally came out. Total disappointment: pots had static when inc/dec vol, and had balancing issues. The headphone amp on my macbook didn’t suffer from any of that, was indistinguishable in sound quality with a blind test, and was way less hassle. Only difference was that it didn’t get as loud, but since I don’t listen past the macbooks max, I put them in the closet and never looked back.

Re: We need physical audio kill switches

#438

Earlier quoted context omitted.

Send 'em an email. Their $100 units are some of the best testing amps/dacs in the price range, so even from a purely subjectivist standpoint they make stuff that generally works pretty well. If you're encountering issues, then they will usually make good on it. The stereo imbalance is just something you're gonna see at basically every amp at that price point.

I got the Modi2/Magni2 set for my HD650s when they originally came out. Total disappointment: pots had static when inc/dec vol, and had balancing issues. The headphone amp on my macbook didn’t suffer from any of that, was indistinguishable in sound quality with a blind test, and was way less hassle. Only difference was that it didn’t get as loud, but since I don’t listen past the macbooks max, I put them in the close…

That's unfortunate. I use planar headphones, so a dedicated amp is pretty much a requirement due to the power draw vs. regular dyamics. I opted for a Schiit Bifrost/Asgard stack (they didn't have the magni/modi combo at the time) and had great experiences with them. I opted to perform one of the upgrades for the Bifrost myself, and after that had some issues with the DAC resetting and audio cutting out - emailed Schiit, told them what I had done to troubleshoot, and they shipped me a replacement upgrade part the next day.

Re: We need physical audio kill switches

#439

Earlier quoted context omitted.

It's still a really poor decision, because it doesn't extend well to having multiple sources. For example, my tv is connected both to my media computer, and to a Nintendo Switch. If the computer is active, then the volume should be around 50 on a 0-100 scale. If the Switch is active, then the volume should be around 10 to get the same level of output. I would love to have a way to tell the Switch that it should adjus…

The average TV owner doesn’t know the phrase “gain structure” - they are going to set the cable box at 5 and the TV at 100, and then call customer service for the TV because it sounds terrible and won’t get loud enough.

For those interested, these days in the Audio world we refer to it as “Gain Staging”

But you’re spot on. Even my techie friends struggle getting it right with audio over Discord

Re: We need physical audio kill switches

#440

Earlier quoted context omitted.

I love my coffee maker so much. It has one chunky physical switch and no other controls or moving parts. No wifi, no smart bs, no pointless brew size settings, its not spying on me, or inflicting me with DRM. I've had it for over 10 years now, and have had to perform no maintenance.

You'll love this https://www.flairespresso.com/ Besides doing damn good espresso , it isn't even connected to the grid

[deleted]
Post reply on HN