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Essential Climbing Knots

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31–40 of 151 posts

Re: Essential Climbing Knots

#32
post #5
post #2

Hmm. A few thoughts. There are alternatives to the Prussik such as the Klemheist which don't jam as badly. I wouldn't use a ring bend - the double fisherman's is superior for tying rope or cord ends together to create a sling. And I definitely wouldn't use either a ring bend or a double fisherman's to link ropes for abseil. An overhand tied in both ropes (with a 50cm tail) -aka the EDK or European Death Knot is way s…

Fair point re: the Klemheist although the Prussik serves well enough. For my part I wouldn't use a figure 8 in a bight to get a loop in the middle of a lonf rope that's going to take load - the butterfly knot is far superior.

Can you please elaborate as to why it is superior?

Re: Essential Climbing Knots

#34
post #27

Note that the monkey’s fist is an illegal knot everywhere in Australia and you can go to jail just for tying one.

Could you link to a formal document specifying the ban? I'm not Australian, never even been there, so I have no idea how the legal system works there, but I'm very skeptical that any knot could be illegal in any civilized country.

Re: Essential Climbing Knots

#35

Earlier quoted context omitted.

Was also surprised not seeing the EDK for abseiling. Perhaps it's a cultural thing?

From the time of your reply I assume you're also in Europe or at least not in the Americas. You are spot on in your guess. Colleagues and friends over the pond don't use the EDK for abseiling or rappelling as they say. Also, not sure how the name was picked-up, but that's just plain bad marketing putting Death in the name :)

The etymology behind the name isn't known, it is thought that the name is from Americans. FWIW, it is a bend. While all bends are knots, not all knots are bends. So the EDK name really leaves a lot to wish for.

Re: Essential Climbing Knots

#36
post #27

Note that the monkey’s fist is an illegal knot everywhere in Australia and you can go to jail just for tying one.

what??? Why? Is it classified as a weapon or something?

Yes, it’s assumed you only make it as a weapon and possession is a presumption of intent to cause harm.

A colleague made one one so we could throw a rope over a beam. We all laughed about dobbing him in, then chopped it off and chucked it into the bin.

Re: Essential Climbing Knots

#37
post #27

Note that the monkey’s fist is an illegal knot everywhere in Australia and you can go to jail just for tying one.

Could you link to a formal document specifying the ban? I'm not Australian, never even been there, so I have no idea how the legal system works there, but I'm very skeptical that any knot could be illegal in any civilized country.

Wait until you hear of banned books.

Re: Essential Climbing Knots

#38

Random comment: Securing the trace eight with a second knot is really not necessary, as it is a self tightening knot. Most climbers don't do it, my climbing safety book doesn't show it and all gyms I've been too, sans one in Vancouver WA for some reason, don't require it. Rough rule is two fists length for the tail and you're good. Another comment mentioned this too, it's much easier to untie if tied in a specific wa…

stupid question from a sailor: how does a trace eight differ from a standard figure of eight?

Re: Essential Climbing Knots

#39
post #27

Note that the monkey’s fist is an illegal knot everywhere in Australia and you can go to jail just for tying one.

I don't see any sources on this, just some tongue in cheek Quora posts.

I did find something interesting about "the Slugshot" being illegal in some US states, but I would take this with a grain of salt considering the source.

http://www.oldsaltblog.com/2018/07/the-monkey-fists-nasty-co...

Re: Essential Climbing Knots

#40

Random comment: Securing the trace eight with a second knot is really not necessary, as it is a self tightening knot. Most climbers don't do it, my climbing safety book doesn't show it and all gyms I've been too, sans one in Vancouver WA for some reason, don't require it. Rough rule is two fists length for the tail and you're good. Another comment mentioned this too, it's much easier to untie if tied in a specific wa…

I recall being taught it just so the rope doesn't hang around, get caught on things and bother you.
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