>There would be the Chinese censored branch and the uncensored branch everyone else is using
Every fork is vulnerable to the same attack, which is why such a switch doesn't make sense. There's no way to prevent Chinese miners from mining on the "Western" bitcoin if it's the more profitable option. The censorship can be easily made reactive: first, all Chinese miners have to register and report their hash power. If the total hash power for any specific network is below X (eg. 65%) they don't have to censor. The moment they do, they start orphaning blocks that don't comply with the Chinese law. Note it also increases their profits!
The same forces (lots of cheap electricity) that resulted in the concentration of sha256 hashing in China also work for any other PoW; switching to a GPU-based PoW would at best only prolong the inevitable. Most likely GPU PoW is also China-dominated.
Proof of work has infinite economies of scale and the winner can take all property.
The second property makes it profitable for the majority of hash power to cartelize and exclude others. If the cartel was smartly set by the Chinese government - allowing access to all Chinese miners and making it illegal to create smaller cartels - everyone in China would join and after a while it would be enough to mine with only ~20% of the available hash power. That's a 5x increase in revenue per watt hour!
Why? Initially, Chinese miners can mine with >65% of global power, excluding competitors. They do it until everyone else goes bankrupt, giving them 100%. Then, each individual miner can start mining with only 20% of their total power. To prevent fraud, it's enough to make everyone mine with 100% for one hour every week, all at once, to prove their total individual hash power.
If some foolish foreign competitor arrives with more than 20% of the Chinese hash power, every Chinese miner turns everything on.
This monopoly would be almost impossible to defeat.
However, even if you assume someone defeats it somehow - the only way to defeat it is to have an even bigger centralized entity! All that happened is a new monopoly, not decentralization.
All of this means bitcoin can never become "refuge from the growing foreign and domestic militarization of money. [..] an indispensable weapon against civil asset forfeiture, international sanctions, deplatforming, and mass surveillance" to any noticeable degree. It's currently left alone only because it's irrelevant except as a speculative toy.