It's not the over-theming (although that is part of what creates that easily-recognizable Ext-ness), it's the strictness with which they expect you to use their components. If you want a dropdown that functions exactly the way Ext made a dropdown it is the easiest thing in the world, but if you want a slightly different behavior then it's a whole rigamarole of events and overrides and stuff. It's not just how it looks but actual functionality that is hard to improve. You'd be frightened if you saw our "ExtOverride.js" file. :)
I should have also caveat-ed that we are on ExtJS 3, so ymmv with 4.
The way you've concisely written the Ext code and long-form written out the React code does show some form of bias, as what you're really doing with React is pretty much the same as how you've written the Ext code, but if you write out the full path of any kind of UI update it will seem more complex. I mean, adding "the store is notified that something changed and redraws itself to show the loading mask/spinner" is what, 2 lines of code? But a long-form explanation makes it seem like a bigger deal.
Your Ext code is missing all the logic to actually set up the Ajax stuff, all the event handling that you call out in React, error handling, etc... If you came into a React system with all the same things set up that you're assuming in your Ext system (data bindings, event handling, visual components) then the code to accomplish the same thing looks almost identical.
As I said, Ext is great if you want to do what Ext wants you to do. It magics away a lot of stuff that you have to call out explicitly with React+Flux. But the second something goes wrong or you want to try something else that magic bites you in the ass.
All I can say is that my experience switching from Ext to React has been one of massive amounts of time wasted figuring out the quirk of event flows and component layout hierarchies to front-end code that just makes sense and does what you'd expect and is ridiculously simple to debug.