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How I Built a Barbecue Restaurant in Brooklyn: The Toll of Owning Your Business

seriouseats.com

11–20 of 71 posts

Re: How I Built a Barbecue Restaurant in Brooklyn: The Toll of Owning Your Business

#11
post #5

The one constant that seems to come up in all these founder stories is that you better love what you're doing. There's no guarantee that your new business will be successful or profitable but it seems inevitable you will sink nearly all your time, energy, and money into it. You better be feel rewarded by the journey because that's all you can count on.

That's true. The only founder story I can think of that doesn't fit into the pattern is Scott Adams'.

    Here's the counterargument: When I was a commercial 
    loan officer for a large bank, my boss taught us that 
    you should never make a loan to someone who is 
    following his passion.

    [...] 

    My boss, who had been a commercial lender for over 30 
    years, said that the best loan customer is someone who 
    has no passion whatsoever, just a desire to work hard 
    at something that looks good on a spreadsheet.

    [...] 

    On the other hand, Dilbert started out as just one of 
    many get-rich schemes I was willing to try. When it 
    started to look as if it might be a success, my passion 
    for cartooning increased because I realized it could be 
    my golden ticket. 
http://online.wsj.com/articles/SB100014240527023046261045791...

Re: How I Built a Barbecue Restaurant in Brooklyn: The Toll of Owning Your Business

#12
post #10
post #7

How do BBQ restaurants work? The two methods I can think of are: 1) you run out when you run out and that's it for the day 2) you keep stuff warm. I'd expect that to dry it out. I've heard some of the famous ones in the south use method #1. Real BBQ is smoking stuff at low temperatures (not too far from 100C) for a long time - briskets can take 12+ hours or longer. So you can't just throw an extra one on when the cus…

I'm from the south and method #1 is done by almost every non-chain BBQ restaurant. Method #2 is done by almost every chain BBQ restaurant. Method #1 BY FAR produces the most fanfare. Notable #1 is LA-Barbeque, and Franklin BBQ in Austin and the wait is typically 2-5 hours and all of the BBQ is sold out before lunch.

I was really blown away to discover just how regional barbecue is - from a book by an economist of all things:

http://www.amazon.com/Economist-Gets-Lunch-Everyday-Foodies-...

Where I'm from in Oregon, there are a few places, but they're few and far between, and I doubt the quality measures up to areas where there is more knowledge and competition between establishments. Indeed, I have to admit to having had absolutely no clue about real barbecue growing up.

I think it's pretty cool that it's such a local thing, in an age when so much of life is so homogeneous in the US.

Re: How I Built a Barbecue Restaurant in Brooklyn: The Toll of Owning Your Business

#13
post #7

How do BBQ restaurants work? The two methods I can think of are: 1) you run out when you run out and that's it for the day 2) you keep stuff warm. I'd expect that to dry it out. I've heard some of the famous ones in the south use method #1. Real BBQ is smoking stuff at low temperatures (not too far from 100C) for a long time - briskets can take 12+ hours or longer. So you can't just throw an extra one on when the cus…

I live in Mobile, AL. Meat Boss, the best barbecue place I've eaten by far, follows method number 1.

Additionally, they are only open for sandwiches from 11am until 2pm (or they run out) three days a week. Racks of ribs and pork butts can be ordered a day in advance and picked up Monday through Saturday.

Edit: A write up about the joint. http://dixiedining.wordpress.com/2013/04/16/bama-brisket-tha...

Re: How I Built a Barbecue Restaurant in Brooklyn: The Toll of Owning Your Business

#14
post #12
post #10

Earlier quoted context omitted.

I'm from the south and method #1 is done by almost every non-chain BBQ restaurant. Method #2 is done by almost every chain BBQ restaurant. Method #1 BY FAR produces the most fanfare. Notable #1 is LA-Barbeque, and Franklin BBQ in Austin and the wait is typically 2-5 hours and all of the BBQ is sold out before lunch.

I was really blown away to discover just how regional barbecue is - from a book by an economist of all things: http://www.amazon.com/Economist-Gets-Lunch-Everyday-Foodies-... Where I'm from in Oregon, there are a few places, but they're few and far between, and I doubt the quality measures up to areas where there is more knowledge and competition between establishments. Indeed, I have to admit to having had absolutel…

Just wanted to comment to say that the book you mentioned is great, as are most of the other things that economist, Tyler Cowen, has written. He and a colleague have a blog, http://marginalrevolution.com/, that many HN readers will probably enjoy.

Re: How I Built a Barbecue Restaurant in Brooklyn: The Toll of Owning Your Business

#15
post #7

How do BBQ restaurants work? The two methods I can think of are: 1) you run out when you run out and that's it for the day 2) you keep stuff warm. I'd expect that to dry it out. I've heard some of the famous ones in the south use method #1. Real BBQ is smoking stuff at low temperatures (not too far from 100C) for a long time - briskets can take 12+ hours or longer. So you can't just throw an extra one on when the cus…

The author covers this obliquely, in the essay at http://www.seriouseats.com/2014/08/writing-restaurant-menu.h... on incorporating checking into a primarily pork BBQ joint:

> The reason that chicken is a royal pain in my ass is the execution of the dish in a barbecue setting. Every other barbecue item has a relatively long shelf life—contrary to what some snobs tell you, it doesn't need to be eaten straight from the smoker. At Franklin Barbecue in Austin, Texas, Aaron Franklin takes his brisket out at 3 a.m. to rest while the rest of his menu items cook. The restaurant opens at 11 a.m. and sells out shortly thereafter, which means that brisket you waited on line for hours for has been sitting in a warming box for no fewer than eight hours.

> In a barbecue setting, everything is done and cooked long before you show up. Now chicken? Kept warm, it'll stay nice and juicy for maybe an hour. After that it's all downhill.

It sounds like both #1 and #2.

Re: How I Built a Barbecue Restaurant in Brooklyn: The Toll of Owning Your Business

#16
post #7

How do BBQ restaurants work? The two methods I can think of are: 1) you run out when you run out and that's it for the day 2) you keep stuff warm. I'd expect that to dry it out. I've heard some of the famous ones in the south use method #1. Real BBQ is smoking stuff at low temperatures (not too far from 100C) for a long time - briskets can take 12+ hours or longer. So you can't just throw an extra one on when the cus…

All of the good ones in Austin follow #1.

Re: How I Built a Barbecue Restaurant in Brooklyn: The Toll of Owning Your Business

#17
post #10
post #7

How do BBQ restaurants work? The two methods I can think of are: 1) you run out when you run out and that's it for the day 2) you keep stuff warm. I'd expect that to dry it out. I've heard some of the famous ones in the south use method #1. Real BBQ is smoking stuff at low temperatures (not too far from 100C) for a long time - briskets can take 12+ hours or longer. So you can't just throw an extra one on when the cus…

I'm from the south and method #1 is done by almost every non-chain BBQ restaurant. Method #2 is done by almost every chain BBQ restaurant. Method #1 BY FAR produces the most fanfare. Notable #1 is LA-Barbeque, and Franklin BBQ in Austin and the wait is typically 2-5 hours and all of the BBQ is sold out before lunch.

http://www.seriouseats.com/2014/08/writing-restaurant-menu.h... says that the brisket at Franklin has been "sitting in a warming box for no fewer than eight hours."

Re: How I Built a Barbecue Restaurant in Brooklyn: The Toll of Owning Your Business

#18
post #5

The one constant that seems to come up in all these founder stories is that you better love what you're doing. There's no guarantee that your new business will be successful or profitable but it seems inevitable you will sink nearly all your time, energy, and money into it. You better be feel rewarded by the journey because that's all you can count on.

> in all these founder stories [...] you better love what you're doing

I agree with you as a general point but I disagree in that you make it about founders.

As a general rule, if you have the chance/education/abilities to do, you should always pick a job where you love what you're doing, whether you're the founder or an important employee or a random grunt in a giant corporation.

You're going to do that for 8h+ hours a day, 5+ days a week for years on end. Make sure you enjoy it.

Re: How I Built a Barbecue Restaurant in Brooklyn: The Toll of Owning Your Business

#19
post #12
post #10

Earlier quoted context omitted.

I'm from the south and method #1 is done by almost every non-chain BBQ restaurant. Method #2 is done by almost every chain BBQ restaurant. Method #1 BY FAR produces the most fanfare. Notable #1 is LA-Barbeque, and Franklin BBQ in Austin and the wait is typically 2-5 hours and all of the BBQ is sold out before lunch.

I was really blown away to discover just how regional barbecue is - from a book by an economist of all things: http://www.amazon.com/Economist-Gets-Lunch-Everyday-Foodies-... Where I'm from in Oregon, there are a few places, but they're few and far between, and I doubt the quality measures up to areas where there is more knowledge and competition between establishments. Indeed, I have to admit to having had absolutel…

I'll plug my friend's blog here. For years now he's been blogging about visits to BBQ places all over the Southeast, and he's hit a good number of them. A lot of these are the roadside, cinder block building kinda places.

http://marieletseat.com/barbecue/

My brother runs a BBQ place in Flagstaff, of all places, and he's done a lot of traveling to sample BBQ around the country. It really is amazing how much regional variation there is, and how proud each region is of their own style.

Re: How I Built a Barbecue Restaurant in Brooklyn: The Toll of Owning Your Business

#20
I’ve worked in the food industry for quite a while, 16 years I think, often in kitchens but sometimes in other areas. About 20 months ago I launched my own food business. I’m the only employee. The few products I sell should be served fresh, so I go to the kitchen 364 days a year to prepare and deliver fresh goods. In some ways I can relate to Tyson Ho, in others I can’t, the difference being only how our work is similar or divergent.

He’s had much more attention than I’ve had. I’m not certain what he did to garner it, but I’ve worked hard to fly under the radar. From following the tech industry (and others) for many years, I’ve made it a point to not grow too fast, to avoid taking on more than is possible, physically or economically. I’d rather under-promise and then over-deliver. Or, as is often discussed in places like HN, I want to manage customers’ expectations.

One result is that I’ve done no marketing beyond some occasional use of Twitter. I don’t even have a website yet. In fact, I haven’t solicited one customer. Speaking to one person in food retail led to that person carrying my products when I launched, and every customer since has come by word of mouth. Since I only wholesale, my customers are not the people ultimately buying my products for consumption. So I do everything to keep my customers happy, word gradually spreads about my products, and other retailers find their way to me.

Still, I can understand the tight economics Mr. Ho describes. I was profitable within weeks of launching, but I’m not rolling in money by any stretch. I’d hate to know what I make on an hourly basis. But I don’t know because it’s not one of the measures I use for gauging whether this is succeeding. I measure myself by my performance in the kitchen —things like punctuality, product quality, sanitation. I measure customer service by my customers' satisfaction with how I handle their needs. And I measure the bottom line simply by whether or not the bank balance is going up.

He discussed balancing work with other aspects of life. I’m content with how I’ve done there. Mind you, I’m single and childless, so it’s not fair to compare me to him. But I’ve maintained some social life (that was never too big for me), and I’ve continued the long-distance friendships I’ve long been part of.

All told, I’ve never understood why people get into this industry. It’s physically brutal, mentally endless, hard to make decent money, and customer expectations are brutal. On that last one, I’ll note that every industry has its odd customer expectations, but food is one of the oddest I’ve ever noticed. Example: You have a date with your significant other. The restaurant darn well better seat the two of you within minutes of your reservation time. In contrast, the doctor’s office has a waiting room you’re likely to sit in no matter how punctual you are. Another example: Unless something sells out from popularity, food customers usually don’t tolerate things being unavailable. “I’m sorry, there’s no bread for the table because the oven broke” isn’t something you hear, and that’s because customers, and in turn restaurant owners, won’t tolerate it.

The best description I’ve ever heard about restaurant life is that it’s like working in an emergency room but without the life and death. But you can bet anyone worth their salt in a kitchen treats it like like and death. Still, I enjoy what I do and find both the work and customer service rewarding. I don’t blame anyone for trying this industry and fleeing it as fast as possible. And since it sounds like Mr. Ho is doing good work, I certainly hope he’s able to make his business work.

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