I think that's pretty much a straw man. Where is all this terrible macro-laden Lisp code? Well, it's probably not totally made up, but you run into overcomplicated abstractions in every language.
Somehow it seems more likely that people are put off by the slightly "isolationist" culture of Lisp, or the historical clash between Lisp and Unix, or whatever, and then this "unreadable" idea is like a rationalization for not liking the language? This is just a hunch...
You could make all kinds of arguments for the difficulty and obscurity of Haskell, yet it's winning ground quite effectively. I think this basically started with the success of GHC and Cabal/Hackage in creating an infrastructure that's familiar and efficient.
The Lisp world always had good infrastructure engineering. The main compilers (SBCL, CMUCL, etc) are very impressive! But it takes a very intensive kind of community engagement nowadays to stay up to date.
I still think Lisp could have a renaissance. Maybe it's already going on with Clojure. And of course Emacs is quite strong.
The ideal of programming seems to be software architectures based on layers of coherent abstraction. That's very, um, abstract, and there are different ways to do it. With OO, you imagine objects cooperating in layers. With Haskell-like functional programming, you use a mathematical style of abstraction, trying to find theories and algebras that make sense and compose, building applications out of combinations of well-typed values, etc.
Paul Graham describes the Lisp style in his texts on Lisp. You can see it in Emacs's various DSLs (for defining customization parameters, for traversing buffers, etc). It encourages abstraction layers built so as to form mini-languages. So a library can easily provide custom syntactic forms. Instead of having a small number of syntactic forms (if, for, etc) and an expression language based on function application, Lisp is syntactically extensible.
Programming is not a solved problem! We still aren't really sure about how to design programs, how to create coherent abstraction layers. The Haskell approach is very interesting, but not totally fleshed out. People are still working out the best way to structure concurrent I/O pipelines with error handling, for example. I sort of lost my train of thought, but Lisp is very interesting!