I'd say a lot of the critiques are fair but quite exaggerated. I work on a large Scala codebase and yes, the compile times for a fresh start across the codebase are very long, but TDD-type loops are very short, because you're generally waiting for two files (your test target and your test code). Still, the compiler performance in Scala is perhaps my chief criticism, though hardly a show-stopper. As codebases in any language grow, you tend to have increasing challenges in the time it takes to fire up your environment.
The critique about excessive and opaque operator use in libraries is fair, though I think it actually exposes an interesting philosophical issue. Scala is unabashedly written to be a flexible language. This is in opposition to Java, which was written to be a very strict language in terms of expressiveness on the part of the developer (it's perhaps the most strict of the languages I've worked with, hence it being my example). I personally think a lot of criticisms leveled against Java's verbosity and inflexibility are unfair, by virtue of the following: Many incredibly successful and complex open source projects are written in Java. While you could say this stems from Java's enormous popularity, one interesting property of huge Java open-source projects is that I can usually crack open the code and quickly get a sense of how I could contribute to the system without breaking it. While other languages often do a better job of giving me a sense of how the system works, I generally have much trouble with extensibility unless it's Java. This I believe is because Java was designed from the ground up with the goal of limiting individual developer expressivity in favor of imagining large development teams with limited cross communication.
So--I am far less anti-Java than most. But I am a big fan of Scala. Unlike Java, Scala was written to maximize developer expressivity. While writing Java can feel like putting together a legal contract, writing Scala can feel like creating a poem. I'm not making a value judgement in either direction there--I feel that poetry is a good metaphor, because things in Scala tend to fall apart in the reading department. One of the easiest things to do in poetry is to lose the reader--a great poet can put an incredibly complicated multilayered concept onto a small amount of paper--and require a graduate-level understanding from the reader to understand it. Similarly, one can very easily make Scala into an exercise in unpacking
So isn't that a bad thing? Why am I a Scala fan? Going back to my initial praise of Java--Java is so simple and predictable that it's really easy to see how the plumbing works. But because the plumbing must be laid out so meticulously and in every situation, it is often hard to see how things work at a high level. You can't see an architectural sketch in Java, you can only see endless classes in endlessly nested subdirectories. This is a very low level of abstraction, and helps the layperson (such as someone approaching a new open source project) build up an understanding from the base elements. But what's lacking is the high level abstraction.
Outside of programming languages, almost every knowledge discipline has a high level abstraction language--sometimes multiple languages. Usually the abstraction language is opaque to newcomers, and frustratingly so. Examples are the mathematical notations of various disciplines, the jargon-laden meta-language of historical theory/literary criticism, and what is popularly known as 'legalese'. But even less high falutin' fields have similar languages--listening to sports fans talking about what's happening can be quite mystifying to me, given all of the shorthand they're using. Similarly people talking about pop culture in areas I'm not familiar with.
These ubiquitous high level languages usually share two important facets: first, in a few lines of text/speech, you can pack in many books' worth of concepts. Second, unless someone has read those books, they will have no idea what you're talking about (or in the case of pop culture jargon, having spent the requisite hundreds of hours watching movies). Scala is trying to provide a language that can express the low level plumbing as Java can, but also that can express the high level meta-language. In doing so, it opens itself to the same type of criticism that mathematical notation can receive--opacity.
The pitfall, then, of Scala library developers is to create a high level meta-language (a DSL), that doesn't have industry acceptance. This is tantamount to mathematicians who create their own notation to establish proofs--such proofs can be completely unreadable to their colleagues. But this isn't a criticism that should be leveled at the idea of notation period--it's a matter of people learning to accept useful obfuscation (where jargon can reduce textual size and increase understanding) and reject useless obfuscation (inventing your own dialect of shorthand and forcing your readers to learn non-transferrable knowledge to understand what you wrote).
Because they are working with such a flexible language, and one that is targeted at building high abstraction languages, Scala library developers need to think of their audience--terseness by itself is not useful, unless you're writing throwaway code. If you're going to unleash a DSL on your reader, make sure it's in a real dialogue with the reader's expected level of knowledge with regards to how such a DSL should be structured in terms of what the symbols should mean and how they fit together.
I don't know how the Scala story will end, but I do believe that it is one of the few languages that reaches for an expressivity goal that needs to be achieved by at least some future language. Its reaching opens it to much criticism, and rightfully so, but I appreciate it for its ambition.