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How bicycle coaster brakes work (2018)

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Re: How bicycle coaster brakes work (2018)

#51

Post by fransje26 »

japanuspus wrote: post #49
Hobadee wrote: post #15

Where is all this love for coaster brakes coming from?! They are, IMHO, one of the worst brakes ever. They have caused me numerous spills and scraped knees (due to the rear wheel locking up and skidding out from under me) and have done the same to my kids. There is virtually no control over them, and they don't allow you to shift your weight around when standing on the pedals to go around sharp corners or off-road. (…

As the family bike maintainer in Scandinavia, hub gears and coaster brakes are a godsend: Simple, cheap, and the only wear item to replace after a winter driving in salty sludge is a cheap chain -- and this takes half the time if there are no brake cables to detach. This might be a Nordic thing, but being able to handle rear wheel lockups is a necessary skill when driving on winter roads. Once you overlook a section…

> Once you overlook a section of black ice, not even the nicest hydraulic disc brakes will be gentle enough.

My experience with black ice and bikes, is to unexpectedly fall flat on my face because the front wheel loses all grip. Without even getting to the point of trying to brake..

Re: How bicycle coaster brakes work (2018)

#52

Post by fransje26 »

switchbak wrote: post #43
andrewshadura wrote: post #31

Earlier quoted context omitted.

Incorrect. They're perfect for everyday utility cycling. You just need to learn to use them properly.

Personally, I wouldn't want to ride a bike with only rear brakes - or do you also have a front brake with these?

> or do you also have a front brake with these?

No, not necessarily.

I've been using bikes with only rear brakes for years and years as city bikes, and never had a braking problem.

On the other hand, I've borrowed many bikes with conventional rim brakes and invariably had (serious) braking issues because they would be badly adjusted.

Re: How bicycle coaster brakes work (2018)

#54

Post by Hobadee »

andrew_lettuce wrote: post #38
Hobadee wrote: post #15

Where is all this love for coaster brakes coming from?! They are, IMHO, one of the worst brakes ever. They have caused me numerous spills and scraped knees (due to the rear wheel locking up and skidding out from under me) and have done the same to my kids. There is virtually no control over them, and they don't allow you to shift your weight around when standing on the pedals to go around sharp corners or off-road. (…

I agree with you, coaster brakes suck. And losing your brakes if the chains drops is really serious, especially because it tends to happen when you need brakes the most. Cable disc brakes have come a very long way and there are some decent models that require very little maintenance and work great. Also for every skid you get on a coaster brake I'll raise you a nose Endo with the front disc brake!

> Also for every skid you get on a coaster brake I'll raise you a nose Endo with the front disc brake!

I can slam on my front disc brakes and not endo. Step 1: shift your weight all the way to the back. (hang off the back of the seat). Step 2: have front suspension.

Weight shift is mostly enough on its own, but front suspension eats up whatever endo tendency is left.

Re: How bicycle coaster brakes work (2018)

#56

Post by locallost »

Hobadee wrote: post #15

Where is all this love for coaster brakes coming from?! They are, IMHO, one of the worst brakes ever. They have caused me numerous spills and scraped knees (due to the rear wheel locking up and skidding out from under me) and have done the same to my kids. There is virtually no control over them, and they don't allow you to shift your weight around when standing on the pedals to go around sharp corners or off-road. (…

What a weird comment. A lot of people posting their use case for them, personally never fell from them, and in the end don't get that about maintaining hydraulic disc brakes. There is literally nothing to maintain except rarely just replacing the pads or the discs.

Re: How bicycle coaster brakes work (2018)

#58

Post by Gravityloss »

I have biked with lots of coaster bikes and lockup has never been a problem. Like with a lot of things, you just need a little bit of humble attitude and trial and error to get the feel and then once you get it, it gets easier and easier. I don't think they lock up easily at all.

Same if you drive an unfamiliar car, it's more bumpy in the beginning but your brain will adapt, especially manual gears. I remember some cars did have terrible clutches and gearboxes and very low torque engines so it felt intimidating as a kid.

Re: How bicycle coaster brakes work (2018)

#59

Post by flyinghamster »

Gualdrapo wrote: post #18
Hobadee wrote: post #15

Where is all this love for coaster brakes coming from?! They are, IMHO, one of the worst brakes ever. They have caused me numerous spills and scraped knees (due to the rear wheel locking up and skidding out from under me) and have done the same to my kids. There is virtually no control over them, and they don't allow you to shift your weight around when standing on the pedals to go around sharp corners or off-road. (…

In my experience hydraulic disc brakes require less maintenance than rim brakes. Living on a hill (like I had to go up a ~150m 23% wall to get home, and go braking down it to go places) meant I had to spend frequently on rim brake shoes and, eventually, rims. The frequent rain and mud makes it to the rim brake shoes and diminish braking power if you don't keep them clean. That doesn't happen with hydraulics - clean t…

Rim brakes are even worse when you're riding a recumbent with 20" (406) wheels. Nothing like being over an hour from home and having a rim give out after hitting a bad bump. I'm very grateful that my trike has drum brakes and my MTB has mechanical discs.

Re: How bicycle coaster brakes work (2018)

#60

Post by lstodd »

fransje26 wrote: post #51
japanuspus wrote: post #49

Earlier quoted context omitted.

As the family bike maintainer in Scandinavia, hub gears and coaster brakes are a godsend: Simple, cheap, and the only wear item to replace after a winter driving in salty sludge is a cheap chain -- and this takes half the time if there are no brake cables to detach. This might be a Nordic thing, but being able to handle rear wheel lockups is a necessary skill when driving on winter roads. Once you overlook a section…

> Once you overlook a section of black ice, not even the nicest hydraulic disc brakes will be gentle enough. My experience with black ice and bikes, is to unexpectedly fall flat on my face because the front wheel loses all grip. Without even getting to the point of trying to brake..

That's a lowside. Turn very gently if weather invites ice (or wet autumn leaves which are about as creepy as ice), never use front brakes.

Locking and then suddenly reacquiring grip on the rear wheel causes highsides on motorbikes, it's when you fly out of the seat and into the oncoming 18-wheeler. But it's quite hard to do on bicycles.

Fronts are useful when you have to decelerate rapidly while travelling in straight line, but in turns you just don't touch them ever.

edit: and on a decent motorbike/scooter you learn to not use brakes except in emergency, 95% of all deceleration is handled by just dropping the throttle.

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