The article mentions that thin-walled copper tube can be used, but then says a precision lathe is required. But you can easily buy off-the-shelf copper tube with 1.6 or 2.0 mm diameter and 0.5 mm wall thickness. Is that not thin enough? If not, could one chemically thin the walls (acid, electrolysis) until it is enough?
Making glass-to-metal seals for homemade vacuum tubes
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Re: Making glass-to-metal seals for homemade vacuum tubes
#42Love this kind of fearless DIY. Keep at it.
Re: Making glass-to-metal seals for homemade vacuum tubes
#43The article mentions that thin-walled copper tube can be used, but then says a precision lathe is required. But you can easily buy off-the-shelf copper tube with 1.6 or 2.0 mm diameter and 0.5 mm wall thickness. Is that not thin enough? If not, could one chemically thin the walls (acid, electrolysis) until it is enough?
In this case a glassworking lathe is needed to align and bring together the copper and glass tubes while the seal is being made.
Re: Making glass-to-metal seals for homemade vacuum tubes
#44What was the large-scale commercial procedure for making electrodes that pass through the glass without letting air in? I assume that electronics manufacturers must have been making millions of such vacuum tubes in the past. Is the knowledge lost (or not practical for hobby use)?
As mentioned in TFA, the most important factor for successfully joining a metal and a glass is to match their thermal expansion coefficients. Most pure metals have a much greater thermal expansion than any glass, which will cause cracks. In the nineteenth century, the first successful joinings of metal with glass were done using platinum, but that is obviously too expensive for normal applications. Eventually a speci…
A lot of thought went into selecting the correct metal and glass for the application.
Kovar[1] was typically used in commercial applications where tubes were constructed from hard (borosilicate) glass. In fact, there were special formulations of borosilicate, such as Corning 7052, and later 7073, which were designed to match with Kovar. So both the metal and the glass were designed to work together. This involves engineering the metal and glass such that they shrink at about the same rate from the glass's setting point (temperature where the glass's internal stresses start to align, but before the glass solidifies) down to room temperature.
An aside on how Kovar works, because it's neat: Kovar is ferromagnetic, and the mixture of metals changes the Curie Point - the temperature above which which a ferromagnetic material stops being magnetic due to the atoms being too energetic. The Curie Point isn't a single point, it's a region. Ferromagnetic materials' lattices actually expand as they become more magnetic - this is the Magnetovolume Effect. So by adjusting the ratios of materials, Westinghouse was able to balance the Magnetovolume Effect (materials wants to expand as it cools and regains its magnetism) with the natural lattice shrinking due to cooling, and create a region where the metal matches the shrink rate of glass.
Conversely, consumer-grade vacuum tubes, such as the ones in radios, guitar amplifiers, incandescent bulbs, and televisions, typically use cheaper soda-lime or lead-alkalai silicate glass[2]. This glass had completely different thermal expansion characteristics, so different materials for leads were required. For thin leads, what they typically[3] did is use a Dumet (42/58 Nickel/Iron) wire clad in a copper sheath and coated with borax. The bonded dumet-copper (about 80/20 by weight) expands at a compromise between the two, so it can be matched to the thermal expansion of glass. The borax aided in oxide control and bonding to the glass (this is copper's "red oxide" as mentioned in the article). But this format only works for thin wires, because as we accumulate surface area we start to have to worry about axial stress from the wire expanding along its axis. So for larger leads, a (more expensive, less conductive) one-piece alloy of 52/48 Nickel/Iron had to be used instead[4].
The anodes of CRTs used yet another alloy, designed for higher expansion volume, known as "Glass-Sealing 42-6", and standardized as ASTM F31. These are 42/6/52 Ni/Cr/Fe alloys.
Lastly, to bring it all back home, the glass matters as much as the metal, and the author of this article is using an exceptionally poor glass for vacuum tube work. It seems like they are using regular Pyrex, which has a much lower expansion coefficient than most vacuum tube glass, and in fact, most metals.
[1] - The generic term for Kovar is Fernico (from Iron-Nickel-Cobalt, Fe-Ni-Co). It was invented by Westinghouse in the 1930s. Other names for Kovar are: ASTM F-15, NILO K, Pernifer 2918, Rodar, and Dilvar P1.
[2] - An exception is tubes that experienced high temperatures that might melt normal glass - such as Xenon flash tubes. Another exception is metal vacuum tubes which had small glass borosilicate beads around each lead wire, bonded to both the wire and the surrounding metal. These were common in 1940s radios.
[3] - US Patent 4824459 - Marker Pin for a Universal Stem Mold - https://image-ppubs.uspto.gov/dirsearch-public/print/downloa...
[4] - Interesting footnote: Platinum also works great as a soft-glass seal wire, if you have the $$$$. Dumet was originally marketed as "platinite" - a platinum substitute.
Re: Making glass-to-metal seals for homemade vacuum tubes
#45If we're talking homemade vacuum tubes... I wonder if it wouldn't be easier to just use metal endplates with feedthroughs for electrical (like spark-plugs) and with v-grooves for o-rings or some other gasket material. this kind of construction can handle vacuum easily, I think?
To everyone screaming "this would not work": it would work (with right kind of fluorine rubber) as long as the lamp is attached to the pump. Thermionics (but not CRTs) don't actually need UHV, HV is good enough, so no copper conflat necessary. If you want to seal the tube off - then yes, the tube needs a proper seal and a getter. Afaik, the getter is there to counter slow outgassing of tube internals (virtual leaks) rather than any external leaks.
Re: Making glass-to-metal seals for homemade vacuum tubes
#46If we're talking homemade vacuum tubes... I wonder if it wouldn't be easier to just use metal endplates with feedthroughs for electrical (like spark-plugs) and with v-grooves for o-rings or some other gasket material. this kind of construction can handle vacuum easily, I think?
In addition to the other comments, in general o-rings are actually very difficult to use for vacuum sealing. Unintuitively, at least until you have some experience in seal design, lower pressure differentials are much harder to seal than large ones. They depend on the pressure differential itself to form the seal, they don't work like a gasket between 2 faces. This is also why compressing in a v-groove doesn't make them perform better.
Even if you can get an o-ring to seal a vacuum, it will likely only work in the context of applying a vacuum to a system to a desired level, not as a permanent seal.
Re: Making glass-to-metal seals for homemade vacuum tubes
#47One thing about gallium/galinstan - it would actually make a descent high vacuum seal as it has lowest vapor pressure of all elements - so it doesn't evaporate. The problem is that it sticks to just about everything that isn't PE/PTFE. Galinstan thermometers use some proprietary coating to make glass repel it. I was once entertaining the idea of using gallium for an electrostatically or MHD boosted Sprengel pump, but…
Pure galium has such a low melting point that it liquefies and acts like mercury if you hold a few grams in your hand.
Probably non-ideal for vacuum tubes which do run a lot hotter than most other components.
Re: Making glass-to-metal seals for homemade vacuum tubes
#48What was the large-scale commercial procedure for making electrodes that pass through the glass without letting air in? I assume that electronics manufacturers must have been making millions of such vacuum tubes in the past. Is the knowledge lost (or not practical for hobby use)?
You may still be able to buy the prefabricated mass-produced tube bases for regular 9-pin miniature tubes.
These are just "wafers" of glass a few mm thick with the 9 metal pins through them. Both having matched expansion characteristics that were improved over a period of decades.
The base is held in a jig, the inner electrode assembly is tacked onto the proper pins at each point. Then the tough borosilicate glass tubing is lowered and sealed to the wafer.
Evacuation is from the top, and then that is sealed to a point like you see on any ordinary 12AX7-sized tube.
Re: Making glass-to-metal seals for homemade vacuum tubes
#49Re: Making glass-to-metal seals for homemade vacuum tubes
#50What was the large-scale commercial procedure for making electrodes that pass through the glass without letting air in? I assume that electronics manufacturers must have been making millions of such vacuum tubes in the past. Is the knowledge lost (or not practical for hobby use)?
not sure if the thermal expansion of pyrex is much different from just borosilicate glass, but https://simplifier.neocities.org/diode3 seems to have worked something out with tungsten