I think I've shown above that you can make the resistor material itself almost arbitrarily cheap, calculating for example how you can get 40 kilowatts out of 9.3 grams of aluminum foil, and showing that with more busbars you can use even less resistor material than that. Aluminum itself wouldn't work for Standard Thermal's target temperatures, but you can make an arbitrarily thin foil out of any metal, supporting it as a thin film on an insulating ceramic such as porcelain if necessary. Copper, gold, silver, mild steel, nickel, nichrome, other stainless, titanium, platinum, and platinum/iridium, could all be made to work, and in no case would the material cost be significant. Metal film resistors supported on ceramic are being used to convert electrical energy into heat in probably every electronic device in your house.
And the old standby for resistive heating of giant piles of dirt, for example to bake it into carborundum, isn't a metal at all—it's plain old carbon, which you can if necessary bake in situ. Carborundum itself can also work, though it's not malleable, and controlling its resistivity can be tricky.
MIG welding wire is an interesting possibility.
The main potential obstacle, I think, is the manufacturing cost, and as sandy234590 was saying, potentially durability in use. Vernon said resistor durability had been one of their major problems; I'd think that sand would impose less stress on the resistors than generic dirt, but, with quartz in particular, you could greatly reduce the risk by not crossing the quartz dunting temperature at 573°: https://digitalfire.com/glossary/quartz+inversion That obviously isn't an option for Standard Thermal, but it would be completely viable for household climate control, just requiring somewhat more sand.
Sandy points out, implicitly, that mild steel such as the baling wire I suggested typically does not last long at high temperatures. But that's because it oxidizes. The same vulnerability is present in most metals, though not silver, gold, platinum, and platinum/iridium alloys, and only to a limited extent for nickel, nichrome, and other stainlesses. That oxidation can only happen in an oxidizing atmosphere; the thin iron ballast wires in Nernst lamps last indefinitely because they're sealed in a reducing (hydrogen) atmosphere. As I said, I think you can maintain a reducing atmosphere in the sand pore space by just including a little charcoal, which will scavenge any oxygen that gets close to the heating elements when they're hot, and may even be able to reduce any oxide that does form, at the cost of carbon monoxide emission.
If the atmosphere inside the sand is oxidizing, you'd probably want to either use something that won't be damaged by oxidization, such as gold or nichrome, or use a very thick heating element such as carbon so that it will have an adequate service life despite the oxidation. Most stainless steels will start to oxidize at a few hundred degrees, even though they're fine at room temperature.
(The main heating element in Nernst lamps, cubic zirconia, was also immune to oxidation, but it had some other drawbacks; for example, it needed to be preheated into its conductive range with a platinum preheat wire, and its rather aggressive negative temperature coefficient of resistance made it prone to thermal runaway when operated on a constant-voltage source—thus the iron ballast wire.)