Show HN: Bayleaf – Building a low-profile wireless split keyboard
51–60 of 259 posts
Re: Show HN: Bayleaf – Building a low-profile wireless split keyboard
#52Why do no split keyboards have symbols on the keycaps? What happens when you forget where a key is that you don't use often, do you just have to press keys until you find it again?
I have the ultimate hackers keyboard (silly name, I know) It's a really good split keyboard with symbols printed (optional). https://ultimatehackingkeyboard.com/
Software is as critical as hardware: The UHK supports holding a key down to select a different keymap layer, then using the other hand to tap a key in that layer. While few people learn many-key chording, "one finger each hand" is every bit as easy as ordinary typing, with practice. This supports an n^2 expansion in effective keyboard reach. I'm surprised this isn't the norm for selecting Chinese/Japanese characters.
The question is: How well? I'm not entirely happy with my QMK firmware implementation. Tap-hold is the antithesis of n-key rollover; one needs to learn to properly nest key-down, key-up events. It's easy to switch from a clarinet (cleanly cover holes) to a saxophone (slap pads), but hard switching back. And we've all learned to type like we're on a saxophone, relying on n-key rollover to cover many sins.
I now use QMK firmware with Hasu controllers for multiple Leopold FC660C keyboards with Topre Silent 45g "rubber dome" key switches. After trying dozens of mechanical key switches, I found that nothing feels like a Topre switch.
And here's the kicker: The physical form factor doesn't matter so much if your fingers rarely go far from home row, which is what tap/hold facilitates.
Re: Show HN: Bayleaf – Building a low-profile wireless split keyboard
#53Re: Show HN: Bayleaf – Building a low-profile wireless split keyboard
#54Usually "low profile" is used generously in mechanical keyboard land
Re: Show HN: Bayleaf – Building a low-profile wireless split keyboard
#55This is beautiful. I'm a "Let's Split" style keyboarder as well so this made me giddy! There's a distinct lack of solid cases out there for this layout style. You mention possibly mass producing the next round. Please add a notify email list or something. I'd be all over this.
The plastic laminate of my ergodoxen was stiff, sturdy, and heavy. The exposed bolts were a little industrial. Very much had a DIY look.
My Lily58 started out with the PCB "case" which is horrible. Way too flexible, and switches falling out as soon as you attempted to transport it. (Easy transport was my main motivation for the smaller keyboard.)
Eventually, I was able to convince someone on Etsy to print me a 3d case for it. It is ok. Much better than the PCBs. However, switches still have a tendency to pop out when moving the keyboard.
The case on the Bayleaf makes me wonder if other keyboards could do a better job with case offerings.
I've always gone with wired keyboards because dealing with batteries seems annoying.
Looking at this keyboard makes me realize that I've optimized for functionality but this beauty is optimized for form.
Re: Show HN: Bayleaf – Building a low-profile wireless split keyboard
#56Why do no split keyboards have symbols on the keycaps? What happens when you forget where a key is that you don't use often, do you just have to press keys until you find it again?
The other thing is that many keys will have multiple functions - so what do you print on them? e.g. my j key also doubles as # and the down key. Some are maybe even more frequently used key combinations, e.g. I have a ``` and a => key
Re: Show HN: Bayleaf – Building a low-profile wireless split keyboard
#57This is beautiful. I'm a "Let's Split" style keyboarder as well so this made me giddy! There's a distinct lack of solid cases out there for this layout style. You mention possibly mass producing the next round. Please add a notify email list or something. I'd be all over this.
I think cases are the biggest issue with DIY keyboards. The plastic laminate of my ergodoxen was stiff, sturdy, and heavy. The exposed bolts were a little industrial. Very much had a DIY look. My Lily58 started out with the PCB "case" which is horrible. Way too flexible, and switches falling out as soon as you attempted to transport it. (Easy transport was my main motivation for the smaller keyboard.) Eventually, I w…
You can even get them to 3D print metal parts with an SLM process, although that's on the pricier side.
Re: Show HN: Bayleaf – Building a low-profile wireless split keyboard
#58I've wanted this for years. I've tried so many "ergonomic" mechanical keyboards, but the huge key travel (even if very soft switches), tends to always give me finger/wrist issues over a few weeks.
Re: Show HN: Bayleaf – Building a low-profile wireless split keyboard
#59I've wanted this for years. I've tried so many "ergonomic" mechanical keyboards, but the huge key travel (even if very soft switches), tends to always give me finger/wrist issues over a few weeks.
There is always Glove80, choc switches have very little travel.