AVR-8 for the win. AVR-8 is highly orthogonal and has a whopping huge 32 register file. Devices like
https://store.arduino.cc/products/arduino-uno-rev3
are affordable and have good tooling. Memory capacity is tiny but it is fast, andthere is a lot of I/O, you can even write console programs that use the serial ports or better, programs that do physical things and also communicate over the serial ports -- in some ways AVR-8 boards are more capable than conventional computers, phones, etc. So far as I can tell, AVR-8 was the last 8-bit architecture, if it has a real weakness it is that, compared to other microcontrollers, it's a dead end because you're going to upgrade to ESP-32 or ARM if you need more.
The 6052 has more registers than the PDP-8 but just barely. Writing compilers for the 6052 is difficult because there just aren't enough registers not to mind a limited set of addressing modes. If you want to do anything interesting with the 6502 you are likely to use virtual machine [1] techniques such as Wozniak's SWEET16 or the atrocious UCSD p-System [3] or Infocom's Z Machine [4]. That kind of stuff is really fun, but so is writing straightforward AVR-8 code.
I have fond memories of the 6809 which supported really advanced software engineering techniques at the time [5] but if I had to pick a classic 8-bit architecture that is easy to find hardware for today it would have to be the Z-80, or the successor eZ80, which I think the only 24 bit micro that didn't suck (had real 24 bit index registers!) Boards are available [6]
[1] as in 'Java Virtual Machine', not 'VM/CMS'
[2] https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/SWEET16
[3] http://pascal.hansotten.com/ucsd-p-system/
[4] https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Z-machine
[5] https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/OS-9
[6] https://www.olimex.com/Products/Retro-Computers/AgonLight2/o...