I think the Smart Soldering Iron Pinecil is better, but some features are really cool, like the soldering iron cap.
Show HN: iFixit created a new USB-C, repairable soldering system
411–415 of 415 posts
Re: Show HN: iFixit created a new USB-C, repairable soldering system
#412Earlier quoted context omitted.
> I'm not sure why I would need/want to push 10A to each battery? Because the soldering iron in question dissipates 100W, and 100W is a substantial amount of power? If a soldering iron is drawing 100W from a 2S pair of 18650 batteries, then: The cells are supplying ~13.5A of current through their contacts. To get below 5A, we'd need a six 18650s in a 6S configuration. Certainly doable (a relatively inexpensive [for a…
just pointing that even in 6S, it'd be over 5A at the lower end of charge (I'd assume 3V to be the cut off). I have not checked the schematics but I'd expect a PWM controlled resistive heater and Joule counting, i.e. constant power.
Ah.
You're right, of course.
But I guess I'm assuming that 100W is an ideal figure based on fully-charged cells of ~3.7v instead of a constant 100W, since that's the normal (if somewhat carpetbagging-esque) way to describe things in marketing world. This assumption points to 6s as staying below 5a.
At 3V per cell and 100W output, it takes 7s to stay below 5A. (7S little weird, and even chonkier, but not that weird.)
Re: Show HN: iFixit created a new USB-C, repairable soldering system
#413Earlier quoted context omitted.
So you're saying that the iFixit iron can reach maximum rated power (100w) from 9v, 12v, 15v, and 20v, and 28v/48v? Or some subset of these? Or what, exactly? What function does a buck converter serve in this application? You'll have to spell it out for me, because right now using a buck converter in a portable USB-powered soldering iron sounds like a solution looking for a problem to solve.
Yes, this allows ifixit's iron reach maximum power the supply can provide (usually requesting maximum supported voltage and sinking up to maximum allowed current), regardless of current temperature and/or tip model. Most of casual users of usb-c irons do not care about it, but if you ever used professional stuff, these usb toys appear to be deficient in comparison.
That all makes sense, but: Isn't a pro likely to be inclined to keep the most correct portable USB brick with their portable soldering iron?
They are universal, after all -- at least downwardly.
And what may be some examples of a "pro" soldering iron that uses a buck converter (or transformer taps or whatever) to be flexible to a variety of input voltages?
Re: Show HN: iFixit created a new USB-C, repairable soldering system
#414Earlier quoted context omitted.
Visiting US shop pinecil is 26$: https://pine64.com/product/pinecil-smart-mini-portable-solde... EU shop? 65 Euros... https://pine64eu.com/product/pinecil-smart-mini-portable-sol...
The difference is surprising. Digging deeper, the US shop does not include shipping or taxes. To get an idea, I tried for CA and that already adds $12. That's already $38 without custom tax and VAT.
Maybe some EU regulation in action that forces to put price up-front without "hidden costs" so one can compare prices more efficiently (within EU).
Re: Show HN: iFixit created a new USB-C, repairable soldering system
#415Earlier quoted context omitted.
> It glows purple while it's heating This is not correct, it pulses blue indicating the iron is heating, and when turned off, pulses purple while cooling.
You appear to be replying to the co-founder of iFixit, so presumably he knows what he's talking about. https://www.ifixit.com/Document/CPMKU1yOZAYVXbpB/FixHub_Sold... What he says matches their documentation as well: >Blue LED: The iron is below 40° C / 100° F and is safe to touch. >Purple LED: The iron is actively heating up or cooling down. Iron tip is not safe to touch. >Orange LED: The iron has reached the user-s…
I was quoting from the article, which, admittedly, isn’t straight from the horses mouth. If there’s a discrepancy, one of them is wrong (I think I know which).
> While there’s no display, the illuminated ring behind the grip does provide a visual indicator of what the iron is doing: solid blue means it has power but the heating element is off, a pulsing blue indicates the iron is heating, and orange means it has reached the desired temperature. If you flick the heater switch off, the ring pulses purple until it cools back off and returns to blue.