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The Origin of Ambergris (2012)

press.uchicago.edu

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Re: The Origin of Ambergris (2012)

#31

Post by wsc981 »

because_789 wrote: post #28

Really interesting to read. So IIUC ambergris is _sometimes_ formed in the 4th (last) sperm whale stomach, is basically a constipatory plug of indigestible squid parts (beaks, quills, and eye lenses) which either eventually passes thru the whale’s anus, ruptures the intestine and kills the whale, or is (was?) harvested on rare occasion by whalers. And if you’re lucky you can find it washed up on beaches.

It can be worth a very nice amount of money. Life changing perhaps, depending on where you live.

https://thethaiger.com/thai-life/lucky-fisherman-finds-whale...

3 million Baht buys a quite nice house or condo in Thailand.

Re: The Origin of Ambergris (2012)

#32

Post by epapsiou »

amarcheschi wrote: post #3

Up until not too much ago we also extracted musk essence from the anal glands of white belly musk deer. Another interesting thing is oud. It's a resin produced in aquilaria trees when infected with a specific fungus, and it can cost tens of thousands of dollars per kg. I think one of the first famous commercial Perfumes to use it was m7 by ysl, you can read an article on it on fragrantica: https://www.fragrantica.com…

First one to use oud was Balenciaga PH. M7, AFAIK, used the synthetic oud captive. Not the real deal. Definitely the reissue (square bottle) did.

Re: The Origin of Ambergris (2012)

#33

Post by epapsiou »

armitron wrote: post #24
an_aparallel wrote: post #8

one of my favourite frags 'Kouros' by YSL uses ambergris (or synthesised) shame that over time the formula has changed so much. as per descriptions..it really used to smell like "sweat"/"heavy"...and has changed to much fresher and cleaner.

It's not ambergris that gives Kouros its characteristic pissy notes, but civet (also real oakmoss and strong aldehydes) ingredients all of which they toned down in the early 2000s and then completely removed in 2008 (Loreal era). The Kouros you can buy these days (white instead of metallic shoulders), is heavy on coriander with barely any "musk" and bears little resemblance to the "scent of the gods" of the 80s and 9…

Not just Civet, the original had Costus Root too.

Re: The Origin of Ambergris (2012)

#34

Post by anjel »

an_aparallel wrote: post #8

one of my favourite frags 'Kouros' by YSL uses ambergris (or synthesised) shame that over time the formula has changed so much. as per descriptions..it really used to smell like "sweat"/"heavy"...and has changed to much fresher and cleaner.

Google: perfume reformulated carcinogen

Re: The Origin of Ambergris (2012)

#35

Post by wakaru44 »

jlnthws wrote: post #9
Clamchop wrote: post #4

Fortunately for perfumery, ambergris' distinctive odor is principally owed to just two chemicals, ambroxan and ambrinol, both of which are now synthesized.

"Ambergris has been synthesized, but its synthetic versions are not convincing. They lack an indefinable something that is gained only after years spent at sea." Probably a bit like synthesized truffle oil, good enough for most people but lacking richness for a trained delicate palate.

I think the scandal with truffle is that even refined palates can't find it. Even the most refined restaurants that use actual truffle, are forced to add the fake thing, or most customers won't be satisfied with the dish.

Re: The Origin of Ambergris (2012)

#36

Post by armitron »

an_aparallel wrote: post #29
armitron wrote: post #24

Earlier quoted context omitted.

It's not ambergris that gives Kouros its characteristic pissy notes, but civet (also real oakmoss and strong aldehydes) ingredients all of which they toned down in the early 2000s and then completely removed in 2008 (Loreal era). The Kouros you can buy these days (white instead of metallic shoulders), is heavy on coriander with barely any "musk" and bears little resemblance to the "scent of the gods" of the 80s and 9…

thanks for the correction :) I would kill for a bottle of Fraische...is that similar/same to Kouros Sport?

It's Kouros with no aldehydes, less sage, no coriander/cinammon/leather, retaining the civet but a bit different: the pissy notes are now even sharper but the "fecal" notes are gone, more citrus/fruit (some say pineapple but I can't pick that up) and a similar legendary warm/soapy/amber drydown, what you'd expect an ancient Greek temple full of burning incense to smell like.

It's definitely in the same league as Kouros, and much more wearable in the summer.

Kouros Sport (which I also have) is not as good, as it doesn't project as much and all the notes are greatly diminished as if they've been diluted.

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