Semi-related: what's the best place to learn the old school style of working with php, I already know laravel but it feels so far removed from normal php that I am not confident working with it on it's own.
I would try some "old style" php frameworks. Like CodeIgniter or Yii. If you want even simpler, then maybe try Slim framework. You'll have to add your own data access lib. If you want Grug brain PHP then there's https://github.com/bcosca/fatfree You can also use composer package manager to build your framework with libs like routing, sql query builder, etc.
Is PHP not already a template language?
The whole idea of PHP frameworks always confused me. Why do I need a router when I can simply add new files at the routes I want?