Earlier quoted context omitted.
How about making ssh as secure as (or more secure than) the VPN you'd put it behind? Considering the amount of vulnerabilities in corporate VPNs, I'd even put my money on OpenSSH today. It's not like this is SSH's fault anyway, a supply chain attack could just as well backdoor some Fortinet appliance.
Defence in depth. Which of your layers is "more secure" isn't important if none are "perfectly secure", so having an extra (independent) layer such as a VPN is a very good idea.
I'd stop at SSH, since I don't see a conceptual difference to how a VPN handles security (unless you also need to internally expose other ports).