Wouldn't a file system in a slightly higher level language solve some of this pain? (edit: in terms of being able to understand the system)
You're at odds with the desire (necessity, actually) to have precise low-level control, not just of the in-memory layout of the data structures, but also of the performance characteristics of your code (e.g. no unnecessary pointer-chasing). Higher-level languages tend to make it easier to pile up abstractions; we want the orthogonal property of making it harder to shoot yourself in the foot. You can look at ZFS for i…
At that point, is Rust buying you anything for how much it's going to get in your way?
I really don't see an advantage to Rust when operating at these kinds of low levels.