161–170 of 273 posts
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Of course there are ways to eliminate most noises. But at some point it’s not worth the cost.
Right. As they’re clearly cutting costs at their current price point /s
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>Some diesels got so efficient though that they needed an extra in-line heater to have enough heat for the cabin in specific operating domains I live on the top of a hill, so the first seven minutes or so of me driving anywhere is coasting at minimum engine power. Once air temp gets below 10C it's a long, slow painful wait for the vents to start blowing warm air. Especially unfortunate when you're waiting for the def…
Maybe check if your EGR is operating properly? Also the resistance heater if equipped. Most diesel cars equipped with EGR also detect its (frequent in older cars) failures, but I suppose it's possible to have a fault without it being detected. EGR is responsible for recirculating exhaust gases back into the intake primarily to increase efficiency, but a nice side effect is that it heats up the engine a lot quicker. A…
Efficiency does not need EGR. EGR only helps to keep NOX down when running efficiently. In some (many) vehicles EGR is disabled at cold temperatures.
If I was the engineering team, I would be trying to eliminate all these noises. Every single one of these could be engineered away. For example the pops and bangs at a supercharger is the metal shield deforming when heated. Instead, it should have circular ridges stamped into it around the fixing points to let it expand against the springiness of the steel. The clunk noise from brakes could be engineered away by usin…
If you "fix" these sounds in v2, then you'll still need to explain them in the manual for v1 owners.
Ultimately it's not really a bug. People aren't used to cars being so quiet so some minor new sounds suddenly stand out.
If I was the engineering team, I would be trying to eliminate all these noises. Every single one of these could be engineered away. For example the pops and bangs at a supercharger is the metal shield deforming when heated. Instead, it should have circular ridges stamped into it around the fixing points to let it expand against the springiness of the steel. The clunk noise from brakes could be engineered away by usin…
The sounds are not that intrusive...While others have pointed out the costs involved in solving them, the real question is "will muting each and every sound sell more cars?". Of course from an engineering point of view the other question is "are these sounds indicative of something that will fail prematurely?". The complexity of adding some sort of muting may introduce other modes of failure. Sometimes the best solut…
Maybe muting sounds won't. But a general focus on quality will. There's a good amount of potential customers who consider Tesla low quality. There's a good amount of EV competitors who deliver better quality, these days.
And, more importantly, it might not sell more cars next quarter. But not doing that will lead to a continued decline in perception, and that is a price that's only paid a few years later.
Growth mattered above all when Tesla was creating the market. That is shifting right now, and a "new products! growth!" approach won't be the winning strategy for much longer. And, most importantly, cars are not software. You can't fix reputational issues with a patch.
If Tesla waits until the competitors are quiet, it's too late. "We're almost as good as our competitor" is not a helpful selling strategy for cars. For most consumers, a car is a long-term (4-8 years) commitment, bought on a very reputational basis.
If I was the engineering team, I would be trying to eliminate all these noises. Every single one of these could be engineered away. For example the pops and bangs at a supercharger is the metal shield deforming when heated. Instead, it should have circular ridges stamped into it around the fixing points to let it expand against the springiness of the steel. The clunk noise from brakes could be engineered away by usin…
Would you have delayed the first release to tackle these sounds? If so, any day not shipping products is a day closer to going bankrupt. If you "fix" these sounds in v2, then you'll still need to explain them in the manual for v1 owners. Ultimately it's not really a bug. People aren't used to cars being so quiet so some minor new sounds suddenly stand out.
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Such a slow warmup is probably also bad for your engine (the oil will be super hard to pump around so you'll have very little lubrication and very high oil pressure until it warms up a bit) so that block heater may well be useful in more ways than one. You may want to look into oil that flows better at low temps in winter based on what temperature your engine eventually reaches when it is fully warmed up. There is a…
It's supposed to run 5W-30 but for the cold months I do 5W-20. After watching the Project Farm metal on metal wear tests of 0W oils, and the fact I'm not running the engine at -20C, I'm not eager to go any lighter: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xtSwaF2evTU
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It's supposed to run 5W-30 but for the cold months I do 5W-20. After watching the Project Farm metal on metal wear tests of 0W oils, and the fact I'm not running the engine at -20C, I'm not eager to go any lighter: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xtSwaF2evTU
Do 0w-30 not Xw-20. The number on the left is cold temperature performance, where cold temperature =not at operating temperature. The number on the right is in the manual and you only change it when you go to the track. Atm you're running a lighter oil than your car is designed to use and it's very likely to be a bad idea. In the video you linked the only oils you can compare in the way he is comparing them are the 0…
The latter is also useful to check for impending headgasket doom (or cracks) before it is otherwise visible.
See what?
Loading this page causes the tab to crash with SIGTRAP on Chromium 119.0.6045.159 Linux
[Edit] Figured out Dark Reader extension is causing the crash. I turned it off for that specific site and it no longer crashes. Very strange.
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Logically you'd keep as many parts as possible inside, where the temperature is easier to control?
Maybe if you expect the heat pump to mainly move heat in, the heat generating parts should be on the inside, and reverse if you’re mainly moving heat out (A/C). Don’t know if this is considered during installation?
The compressor is usually in the outdoor unit, because of noise, size, and proximity to the controls. It also is the item that consumes most of the power, so for minisplits, the outdoor unit is the part wired for high currents. It usually is wrapped in a nice insulating blanket (for sound as well), and vapor injection techniques used in cold climate pumps means the heat wasted is minimal.