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Electronics Lab Bench Setup Guide

badar.tech

61–70 of 274 posts

Re: Electronics Lab Bench Setup Guide

#61
This is some unpopular opinion but please, do not buy extra components thinking that you will use it in some extrea projects. Only buy components that your current design needs. It's even better if you can get a board house to assemble them before it arrives at your desk. Otherwise it is the beginning of the fall to a hoarder life.

Except if you are playing in RF or some black magic where simulation does not cut it...

Re: Electronics Lab Bench Setup Guide

#62

This is just a fantastic page, why aren't more on the internet like this, with specific parts lists and sources? Very similar to the stations we had when I was doing computer repair a decade ago (no, I will not fix your computer.™) and out of everything on there, be sure to get a good ESD mat, or else you'll never stop chasing random glitches. I just want to add that the best way to get over starting friction is to h…

FWIW, I bet the guy has an ESD mat and it was just too ugly to show. The only other thing I would add is boxes or large bins. Not for tools or components, but for project work, so you can put it away and work on something else when you need to. Otherwise it ends up spread all over your desk, Jim Williams style: https://www.flickr.com/photos/mightyohm/6926143499 (which is now at the computer history museum, apparently…

That's what I think of when I read “electronics lab bench”. The one in the article is so clean and well organized, I'm getting jealous.

Re: Electronics Lab Bench Setup Guide

#63

This is just a fantastic page, why aren't more on the internet like this, with specific parts lists and sources? Very similar to the stations we had when I was doing computer repair a decade ago (no, I will not fix your computer.™) and out of everything on there, be sure to get a good ESD mat, or else you'll never stop chasing random glitches. I just want to add that the best way to get over starting friction is to h…

I just start a new project on top of the pile of unfinished projects, coffee cups, home repairs, bike parts, etc.

Re: Electronics Lab Bench Setup Guide

#64
This is a very nice guide. Lots of good choices.

One thing I would add is that having a solid bench with a replaceable surface to do dirty/cutting things on is really useful.

I have a really solid desk I made out of scaffolding planks and recycled roof timbers. The surface is then made using either Ikea bamboo chopping boards (they were on offer) or some other replaceable work top.

Another thing that might be useful for Beginners +1 is a second hand bench top multimeter. This is only useful if you are not going to be mobile. They have the advantage that they are always there, and aren't moved much. If you have a more fancy o-scope, this isn't probably needed as you can do most things on that (once you've learnt how to.)

This is personal preference, so do take this as a personal opinion.

Re: Electronics Lab Bench Setup Guide

#65

This is a very nice guide. Lots of good choices. One thing I would add is that having a solid bench with a replaceable surface to do dirty/cutting things on is really useful. I have a really solid desk I made out of scaffolding planks and recycled roof timbers. The surface is then made using either Ikea bamboo chopping boards (they were on offer) or some other replaceable work top. Another thing that might be useful…

I see "self-healing" cutting mats all the time in tech videos, with the measurement grid and angles printed on top. I'd like to get one at some point.

Re: Electronics Lab Bench Setup Guide

#66
post #35

Earlier quoted context omitted.

I have about 40 linear feet of bench space in my garage. Its cheaper to make durable benches out of 4'x8' sheets of 3/4" plywood with another 3/4" sheet of mdf underneath. I cut them to 3'x8' sheets and use the extra 1' as a shelf. You need the 3' bench space for equipment. Ikea used to make things out of real wood but they haven't in years. Anything other than actual plywood will sag.

What's the mdf underneath for? Would another sheet of plywood (offset from the one above, for strength at joints) work better, but is more expensive?

I honestly prefer IKEA's lightweight honeycomb techique.

They're crap at surface impacts (putting a sheet of plywood on top is a great idea) but really good at rigidity.

If only they were available in decent depth dimensions, like they used to be.

Re: Electronics Lab Bench Setup Guide

#67
This is a very comprehensive list (and the organisation is pretty inspiring) but missing a few things I have personally found very valuable in what I do (which involves a mixture of smallish new projects and retrocomputing repairs/upgrades/etc) - main one I'd mention is low melting point solder to use for desoldering larger components (both plated through hole and SMD) - it took me ages before I tried it and it's made a huge difference at least for me. Chip Quick is the well known brand but you can get cheap unbranded "bars" of it as well. I've also found desolder stations much easier to get on with than solder suckers - Hakko 808 is what I see recommended a lot though it's not what I have. Ultimately if it's temperature controlled I think there's not much to choose between them.

Finally there are some great very cheap logic analyzers out there - modern oscilloscopes will do this too but you have to get pretty high up the price list before you can make do with just one device for both uses.

Re: Electronics Lab Bench Setup Guide

#68
post #65

This is a very nice guide. Lots of good choices. One thing I would add is that having a solid bench with a replaceable surface to do dirty/cutting things on is really useful. I have a really solid desk I made out of scaffolding planks and recycled roof timbers. The surface is then made using either Ikea bamboo chopping boards (they were on offer) or some other replaceable work top. Another thing that might be useful…

I see "self-healing" cutting mats all the time in tech videos, with the measurement grid and angles printed on top. I'd like to get one at some point.

I recommend them, they're great. When I got mine, it seemed like a bit of a luxury, but now it seems like essential equipment. Also, I recommend getting a rotary cutter (link to illustrate the tool type -- not a recommendation for that particular instance) to go along with it.

https://www.amazon.com/Olfa-Deluxe-Handle-Rotary-Cutter/dp/B...

Re: Electronics Lab Bench Setup Guide

#69
post #65

This is a very nice guide. Lots of good choices. One thing I would add is that having a solid bench with a replaceable surface to do dirty/cutting things on is really useful. I have a really solid desk I made out of scaffolding planks and recycled roof timbers. The surface is then made using either Ikea bamboo chopping boards (they were on offer) or some other replaceable work top. Another thing that might be useful…

I see "self-healing" cutting mats all the time in tech videos, with the measurement grid and angles printed on top. I'd like to get one at some point.

I'm sure they're the kind of thing that can bw ludicrously expensive, in part because they sound complicated/high-tech. Note that they can be really cheap, as in sub-£10 for A4 maybe even A3.

I just mean don't do much (or any) cutting thinking 'I should get one of those at some point' before getting one, as excuses for new tools/toys go that's a good & also cheap one!

Re: Electronics Lab Bench Setup Guide

#70
post #61

This is some unpopular opinion but please, do not buy extra components thinking that you will use it in some extrea projects. Only buy components that your current design needs. It's even better if you can get a board house to assemble them before it arrives at your desk. Otherwise it is the beginning of the fall to a hoarder life. Except if you are playing in RF or some black magic where simulation does not cut it..…

I prefer to buy components I need, but buy enough extras to deal with failures or losses easily. E.g. if I'm buying SMD resistors (of reasonably common value & package like 4k7 in 0402) I buy at least 100, even if I only need 10. That way when I inevitably drop one or send one flying by forgetting to turn down the hot air flow I can just grab another. And 100 costs $0.56, 10 costs $0.14, so there's not much point trying to save money. When I run out of a cut tape of 100, I know I've used enough of them and I just buy a reel of 10,000 for $15-20. Lifetime supply, easy tracking.

That obviously doesn't apply to the more expensive components.

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