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How To Get Started In Soldering

popularmechanics.com

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Re: How To Get Started In Soldering

#221

Post by midoridensha »

analog31 wrote: post #213

At my workplace, I've taught a number of younger colleagues how to solder. They come in with laboratory science degrees but varying levels of manual skills. I try to explain what makes a better soldering iron, and I think the 3 key ingredients are: 1. High quality plated tips with a reliable supply chain for replacements. Find a catalog supplier for the tips before ordering the iron. 2. A timer greatly promotes tip l…

Personally, I found high-powered reading glasses to be really helpful for soldering. They're cheap, available at any dollar store, and much more comfortable to use than visors.

Re: How To Get Started In Soldering

#223

Post by cglace »

bambax wrote: post #24

> just be careful not to overspend on your first iron. I first learned how to solder on an ultra-cheap hardware-store unit, and you should, too I beg to differ. I used to suck at soldering, and while I'm still no expert, swapping my €20 basic soldering iron for a serious Weller unit (starting at €150) changed everything. The Weller heats up almost instantly, goes up as high as you want, and stays at a constant temper…

Meh, I began my soldering journey with a modest $20 unit. As I worked with it, I learned to adapt to its limitations. Eventually, I decided to upgrade to a superior unit, which undoubtedly saved me a significant amount of time. However, the initial investment wasn't necessary for me to get started.

In my experience, it's crucial to have a versatile set of soldering tips to handle various scenarios. Attempting to solder small pads with a massive tip can be a daunting task, just as using a minuscule tip to heat up a large pad linked to the ground plane can prove to be ineffective. It's all about having the right tool for the job.

Re: How To Get Started In Soldering

#224

Post by breput »

HopenHeyHi wrote: post #204
bambax wrote: post #24

> just be careful not to overspend on your first iron. I first learned how to solder on an ultra-cheap hardware-store unit, and you should, too I beg to differ. I used to suck at soldering, and while I'm still no expert, swapping my €20 basic soldering iron for a serious Weller unit (starting at €150) changed everything. The Weller heats up almost instantly, goes up as high as you want, and stays at a constant temper…

Look if I can't flash my own IronOS firmware unto my USB-C powered TS100 iron what is even the point? What am I, a farmer? https://github.com/Ralim/IronOS I didn't spend hours watching YouTube reviews comparing soldering irons for nothing. This is $70 well spent. In case anybody thinks I am being sarcastic, I am actually not. Look into it, worth it.

I was thinking this same thing - get a good T100-ish iron (preferably a Pinecil[0]), a 60W USB3 power supply, some good 60/40 solder, and you're at least 90% of the way to a real professional soldering station.

[0] https://pine64.com/product/pinecil-smart-mini-portable-solde...

Re: How To Get Started In Soldering

#225

Post by __MatrixMan__ »

nibbleshifter wrote: post #138
bambax wrote: post #24

> just be careful not to overspend on your first iron. I first learned how to solder on an ultra-cheap hardware-store unit, and you should, too I beg to differ. I used to suck at soldering, and while I'm still no expert, swapping my €20 basic soldering iron for a serious Weller unit (starting at €150) changed everything. The Weller heats up almost instantly, goes up as high as you want, and stays at a constant temper…

Its the rule supposedly came up with by Adam Savage - buy cheap tools, use em til you break em, then replace the ones you break with expensive, good tools. The idea of that rule is so new makers can work out what tools they actually are using, so they don't waste a shitload of money. In practice? Some tools are just worth spending the money on upfront, inferior tools will often lead to frustration and failure early o…

I've had a relevant experience with ergonomic chairs. If you buy the cheap chair, it's hard to be sure. Maybe spending more will fix the problem. The expensive chair though... if that doesn't do it then you can be sure that what you actually needed was weights and a yoga mat.

I'm glad I jumped straight to the expensive one, because otherwise I'd have gotten the middle one and then the expensive one.

Re: How To Get Started In Soldering

#226

Post by fomine3 »

leviathant wrote: post #58
bambax wrote: post #24

> just be careful not to overspend on your first iron. I first learned how to solder on an ultra-cheap hardware-store unit, and you should, too I beg to differ. I used to suck at soldering, and while I'm still no expert, swapping my €20 basic soldering iron for a serious Weller unit (starting at €150) changed everything. The Weller heats up almost instantly, goes up as high as you want, and stays at a constant temper…

Adding to the chorus - I spent $100 on a Hakko in my 30s and upon using it, immediately felt a sizable pang of regret at how much time I'd wasted with my $20 iron over the years. It felt like I must have been doing something wrong, but as soon as I had a decent iron, it's like all the videos I'd watched suddenly made sense.

yeah $4 crap to $35 Hakko is night and day.

Re: How To Get Started In Soldering

#227

Post by mindcrime »

midoridensha wrote: post #219
gav wrote: post #161

Earlier quoted context omitted.

I also think he's talking about tools where inferior means build quality vs. performance. You can go buy a bunch of cheap wrenches from Harbor Freight and they'll be just fine compared to Snap-On. > Quality is an issue, true. But for beginning makers there is often no cheaper alternative. Back in the day I’d “test buy” a tool from HFT and then if it was useful I’d invest in a more substantial version. Also browsing t…

>You can go buy a bunch of cheap wrenches from Harbor Freight and they'll be just fine compared to Snap-On. Harbor Freight wrenches are actually really good, and an excellent value for the money. I've even met pro mechanics that used them. Harbor Freight power tools are a different deal though.

FWIW, Harbor Freight has only relatively recently made a concerted effort to start selling higher quality stuff and to shirk the "only sells cheap junk" label. And even now, there's a lot of variance (in both price and quality) across their various brands. The Icon stuff is pretty good. Maybe not quite on par with Snap-On, but when you consider the price difference, probably a better "bang for your buck." But the Pittsburgh stuff is a few steps down the quality ladder. Some of the other newer brands they've rolled out (Quinn, etc.) I'm less sure about.

Re: How To Get Started In Soldering

#228

Post by cookie_monsta »

purpleblue wrote: post #179
cookie_monsta wrote: post #178

Earlier quoted context omitted.

No, Australian and we have been depositing money for things such as rent directly into people's bank accounts via telephone and internet banking for as long as I can remember. Well, no. I have a dim memory of taking my landlord big wads of cash in the early 90s. Most of the passport application/ renewal process is online, but for a child passport you just go to the post office and tap your card as if you were paying…

I didn't know Australians use "cheque" as well, I thought that was a French term!

Most of our spelling is UK variant (aka King's English, haha) so I guess maybe French in a roundabout way

Re: How To Get Started In Soldering

#229

Post by fomine3 »

sb618 wrote: post #10

Aaah, this is really not a good beginner's guide to soldering! Cranking up to max temperature might work a lot of the time but runs the risk of frying ICs and causing PCB traces to come off. Also using a wet sponge can cause the tips to rust. It's much better to clean them with a brass "sponge" leaving the tip tinned to protect it. Finally the real key to easy soldering is solder flux (and leaded solder if you're all…

Doesn't water from wet sponge evaporate soon?

Re: How To Get Started In Soldering

#230

Post by mwbajor »

Baeocystin wrote: post #164
gav wrote: post #161

Earlier quoted context omitted.

I also think he's talking about tools where inferior means build quality vs. performance. You can go buy a bunch of cheap wrenches from Harbor Freight and they'll be just fine compared to Snap-On. > Quality is an issue, true. But for beginning makers there is often no cheaper alternative. Back in the day I’d “test buy” a tool from HFT and then if it was useful I’d invest in a more substantial version. Also browsing t…

Also worth noting that often the best approach to take is that the tool itself is a consumable. $19 Harbor Freight grinders won't last as long as $150+ ones, but the ~7 you can buy for the same price will outlast even the most expensive one several times over!

Bad tools or consumables break at the most inopportune times and yes, in most cases bad = cheap. People like to compare to Snap-On but forget that Snap-On subsidizes their delivery service with the tool cost. Also, yes, Snap-Ons are in fact that much better than HF tools in almost all cases.

Its bad when a $9 HF torque wrench breaks at 8:45PM on a Sunday night when you're under your car putting the transmission back on. Or a cheap pot-metal screw strips when you have a manufacturing deadline approaching.

I've been in the electronics manufacturing industry for 17 years now and in almost all cases, "buy the best you can afford" is the better mantra. That doesn't go bankrupt over a $1500 dollar Snap-On wrench set, but if you buy the HF stuff, you will spend $1500 in time using their warranty.

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