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How To Get Started In Soldering

popularmechanics.com

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Re: How To Get Started In Soldering

#181

Post by stavros »

Steltek wrote: post #50
bambax wrote: post #24

> just be careful not to overspend on your first iron. I first learned how to solder on an ultra-cheap hardware-store unit, and you should, too I beg to differ. I used to suck at soldering, and while I'm still no expert, swapping my €20 basic soldering iron for a serious Weller unit (starting at €150) changed everything. The Weller heats up almost instantly, goes up as high as you want, and stays at a constant temper…

There are pretty good cheap soldering irons these days too. My $35 Pinecil is pretty fun to use.

Agreed, the Pinecil is amazing. Get it as your first (and probably only) soldering iron.

Re: How To Get Started In Soldering

#182

Post by dandelany »

Baeocystin wrote: post #164
gav wrote: post #161

Earlier quoted context omitted.

I also think he's talking about tools where inferior means build quality vs. performance. You can go buy a bunch of cheap wrenches from Harbor Freight and they'll be just fine compared to Snap-On. > Quality is an issue, true. But for beginning makers there is often no cheaper alternative. Back in the day I’d “test buy” a tool from HFT and then if it was useful I’d invest in a more substantial version. Also browsing t…

Also worth noting that often the best approach to take is that the tool itself is a consumable. $19 Harbor Freight grinders won't last as long as $150+ ones, but the ~7 you can buy for the same price will outlast even the most expensive one several times over!

Assuming you place no value on your own time & frustration…

Re: How To Get Started In Soldering

#183

Post by piva00 »

leviathant wrote: post #58
bambax wrote: post #24

> just be careful not to overspend on your first iron. I first learned how to solder on an ultra-cheap hardware-store unit, and you should, too I beg to differ. I used to suck at soldering, and while I'm still no expert, swapping my €20 basic soldering iron for a serious Weller unit (starting at €150) changed everything. The Weller heats up almost instantly, goes up as high as you want, and stays at a constant temper…

Adding to the chorus - I spent $100 on a Hakko in my 30s and upon using it, immediately felt a sizable pang of regret at how much time I'd wasted with my $20 iron over the years. It felt like I must have been doing something wrong, but as soon as I had a decent iron, it's like all the videos I'd watched suddenly made sense.

Same here, had a cheapo soldering iron thinking I didn't need much to start, fucked up quite a few outboards I needed to add header pins to. Bought a digital Weller iron and never had a hiccup with my soldering since then.

I spent more destroying parts than I would have just buying the Weller in the first place, lesson learned.

Re: How To Get Started In Soldering

#184

Post by EamonnMR »

schoen wrote: post #169
squarefoot wrote: post #104

If I may, I would complete a few points in the article. Soldering iron: Get a decent one. That doesn't mean you must throw a boatload of money, just avoid the crappy ones, which almost always are the cheaper ones. A notable exception is the Pinecil by Pine64.org, which is truly a great iron despite being cheap. Pinecil aside, you can snatch a used Weller or Hakko on ebay without spending too much, but beware of the m…

> Get leaded solder when possible. It's easier to use and joints are a lot less subject to tin whiskers. If you do use leaded solder, be extra-sure to wash your hands after soldering.

I know it's supposed to be much better, but the idea of vaporizing lead anywhere remotely near where kids may someday play is pretty intimidating. Are there any useable lead free solders?

Re: How To Get Started In Soldering

#185

Post by Baeocystin »

dandelany wrote: post #182
Baeocystin wrote: post #164

Earlier quoted context omitted.

Also worth noting that often the best approach to take is that the tool itself is a consumable. $19 Harbor Freight grinders won't last as long as $150+ ones, but the ~7 you can buy for the same price will outlast even the most expensive one several times over!

Assuming you place no value on your own time & frustration…

FWIW, I learned this approach while working in the trades as a welder. You have consumables in stock and ready to go, and that includes extra grinders. Some tools you do take the time and effort to really take care of, of course, but a lot more than you might think are in the cattle not pet category of things.

Re: How To Get Started In Soldering

#186

Post by amelius »

camtarn wrote: post #153
microtherion wrote: post #127

Earlier quoted context omitted.

I agree, but it makes sense to qualify what features of "good" tools are important for beginners. Temperature control is very important, and you should probably have one even in your first soldering iron. Something like hot air rework, on the other hand, is an advanced feature that you can defer until later. Another not overly expensive tool I wish I'd known about as a beginner is a heated solder vacuum pump, dispens…

> heated solder vacuum pump Huh, I had no idea those were even a thing! Thanks for the recommendation.

You should also look into low melting point soldering alloys, for desoldering work.

Re: How To Get Started In Soldering

#187

Post by mardifoufs »

EamonnMR wrote: post #184
schoen wrote: post #169

Earlier quoted context omitted.

> Get leaded solder when possible. It's easier to use and joints are a lot less subject to tin whiskers. If you do use leaded solder, be extra-sure to wash your hands after soldering.

I know it's supposed to be much better, but the idea of vaporizing lead anywhere remotely near where kids may someday play is pretty intimidating. Are there any useable lead free solders?

Lead can't really vaporize at any temperature used in soldering. There are other fumes (mostly from flux) to be worried about, and you have to make sure that solder leftovers are well disposed of (especially when desoldering). But lead free is definitely usable now, though I only use it for solder paste.

Re: How To Get Started In Soldering

#188

Post by xahrepap »

EamonnMR wrote: post #184
schoen wrote: post #169

Earlier quoted context omitted.

> Get leaded solder when possible. It's easier to use and joints are a lot less subject to tin whiskers. If you do use leaded solder, be extra-sure to wash your hands after soldering.

I know it's supposed to be much better, but the idea of vaporizing lead anywhere remotely near where kids may someday play is pretty intimidating. Are there any useable lead free solders?

The smoke you see while working with solder is from the flux, not the lead. Lead doesn't vaporize at the temperatures soldering exposes it to.

Just don't put the solder in your mouth and wash your hands.

Here is one stack exchange answer that seems well researched to me: https://electronics.stackexchange.com/a/19086

I also did a lot of googling on the subject recently when I decided I wanted to try out Stained glass, but wasn't sure what precautions I should take. I've come to the personal conclusion to not stress about the lead in solder.

Re: How To Get Started In Soldering

#189

Post by nerdponx »

EamonnMR wrote: post #184
schoen wrote: post #169

Earlier quoted context omitted.

> Get leaded solder when possible. It's easier to use and joints are a lot less subject to tin whiskers. If you do use leaded solder, be extra-sure to wash your hands after soldering.

I know it's supposed to be much better, but the idea of vaporizing lead anywhere remotely near where kids may someday play is pretty intimidating. Are there any useable lead free solders?

The lead does not vaporize at soldering temperatures. The fumes are just flux. Will irritate eyes and airway, but won't really hurt you. However do wash your hands, and if you are de-soldering with a pump you probably want to vacuum wipe surfaces with a damp cloth, as you can end up creating some lead dust in the process.

Re: How To Get Started In Soldering

#190

Post by m463 »

bambax wrote: post #24

> just be careful not to overspend on your first iron. I first learned how to solder on an ultra-cheap hardware-store unit, and you should, too I beg to differ. I used to suck at soldering, and while I'm still no expert, swapping my €20 basic soldering iron for a serious Weller unit (starting at €150) changed everything. The Weller heats up almost instantly, goes up as high as you want, and stays at a constant temper…

I also wonder about the new breed of smart irons. ts-100, pinecil are microprocessor controlled irons and aren't expensive.
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