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Classic 50mm “Normal” Lens

garyvoth.com

31–40 of 167 posts

Re: Classic 50mm “Normal” Lens

#31

If you have an SLR or mirrorless camera, don't yet own any prime lenses (a lens that doesn't zoom), and you want your photographs to get a lot better very quickly, go buy the 50mm f/1.8 lens your camera manufacturer makes and only use that for a couple months.

Mirrorless cameras don’t care what brand their lenses are and 50mm is easy to manual focus. You can get an old Canon FD lens anywhere.

Re: Classic 50mm “Normal” Lens

#32

It's not the only take on the subject, and I actually think it's quite mistaken. 50mm is great for street portraits or fashion shots. This is where you 1) can't come too close to not spook the subject, 2) want tighter framing, 3) want to put your subject on a little bit of a pedestal so to speak, or 4) want to make a huge print out of your shot. However, for candid "photos of your own loved ones" as in the article, I…

I cannot recommend a 35mm for close-up pictures of people. The perspective is too weird. I have a 35mm lens, I used it a lot, and it has its uses--and the main way I use it is to capture more of the room or more people when I'm taking pictures indoors. Going too close with it results in distorted pictures which is fine as an artistic choice but it's not the choice most people want to make. The Ricoh GR III has a 28mm…

Feel free to maintain your opinion, but I can't agree with it.

> I cannot recommend a 35mm for close-up pictures of people.

Also a little too long. Emotional distance, framing difficulty, yada yada. 28mm is probably the best bet for casual candids with relatives for the reasons I listed.

> The perspective is too weird.

Who cares. If you fail to capture a memorable moment because you were busy looking into the viewfinder focusing and framing, you fail, period. Very hard to do with a wide lens.

Distortion is just not a problem for casual shots of loved ones. It's not fashion or advertisement-- for the purposes of capturing memory & feeling you may want to emphasise intimacy and presence rather than perfection of proportions.

> It's really not. I would start at like 90mm equivalent for fashion or general portraiture (i.e. not candids).

Hard disagree. Wow. A prime of 90mm poses way too many constraints to work with. Unless we're talking professional photography, at which point you might be OK investing loads in a high-quality zoom/a spacious studio/lights/etc., there's really no point in shelling out for a lens that long that would be useless in most scenarios.

Re: Classic 50mm “Normal” Lens

#33
post #27

What's limiting new digital cameras from becoming faster? A decade ago a friend showed me his digital camera with an ISO setting in the thousands and I was amazed at how little noise there was. I've since been a little disappointed that I'm still balancing noise and aperture shooting indoors. Phones take on the problem with heavy image processing, but I'm interested in hardware solutions.

Is the a7s not fast enough for you?

Shooting indoors is unfixable because there isn’t full spectrum light; you’ll have to make up some of the missing colors eventually.

Re: Classic 50mm “Normal” Lens

#34
post #27

What's limiting new digital cameras from becoming faster? A decade ago a friend showed me his digital camera with an ISO setting in the thousands and I was amazed at how little noise there was. I've since been a little disappointed that I'm still balancing noise and aperture shooting indoors. Phones take on the problem with heavy image processing, but I'm interested in hardware solutions.

What do you mean? The current crop of high-end cameras is absolutely amazing in that respect. Take Canon R5, where usable ISO settings extend at least to 32,000 (and the upper limit is 102,400).

Re: Classic 50mm “Normal” Lens

#35
Because I am old I grew up when zoom lenses generally were not good. So I always used prime lenses. Even now, when intellectually I know that thanks to fancy glass and cad-cam methods, zoom lenses are much better than they used to be, I still tend not to use them. But lately I tend to use either a 28 or 85 rather than the 50.

Re: Classic 50mm “Normal” Lens

#36
post #4

These aren't dead! You can still find a variety of fast 50mm lenses, from a cheap f/1.8 for like $150 (which is still way better than most kit lenses) to a very nice f/1.4 upgrade at like $400 all the way to absurdly expensive ones. https://www.kenrockwell.com/tech/comparisons/premium-50mm-le... Their primary advantages: * Amazing "bokeh" -- the quality and look of the background blur that modern phones mostly try to…

Absolutely agree, but have to add a small nitpick: 50mm primes used to be lightweight. The trend is towards Sigma Art / Zeiss Milvus/Otus dimensions, and that means much better edge sharpness but ~1kg in weight.

Let me second that.

Besides perhaps the Canon 50mm f/1.8, 50mm lens are big now. Like a grapefruit on the front of your camera, to the extent it kinda obviates the size reduction in mirrorless bodies—slimmer body, and a giant lens.

There are reasons for that. If you’re buying an interchangeable lens camera, you are probably after image quality, and the new generation of lenses are phenomenal. I am not sure if you’d call this Nikon cheap, but it blows away all their previous offerings. (https://www.zsystemuser.com/z-mount-lenses/nikkor-lenses/nik...)

Re: Classic 50mm “Normal” Lens

#37
post #4

These aren't dead! You can still find a variety of fast 50mm lenses, from a cheap f/1.8 for like $150 (which is still way better than most kit lenses) to a very nice f/1.4 upgrade at like $400 all the way to absurdly expensive ones. https://www.kenrockwell.com/tech/comparisons/premium-50mm-le... Their primary advantages: * Amazing "bokeh" -- the quality and look of the background blur that modern phones mostly try to…

I have a Sigma 30mm 1.4 in Fuji X-Mount (https://www.sigmaphoto.com/30mm-f1-4-dc-dn-c), which is ~45mm full-frame equivalent (FFE), and it's one of the most cost-effective lenses in existence, given its quality relative to its price.

The downside around the "perfect framing" is that focal length will change perspective: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Perspective_distortion_(photog... (take a head a shoulders portrait of yourself with a 20mm and then 85mm lens to see). Almost all professional photographers who need to get the shot have moved to zooms for good reason.

Re: Classic 50mm “Normal” Lens

#38

If you have an SLR or mirrorless camera, don't yet own any prime lenses (a lens that doesn't zoom), and you want your photographs to get a lot better very quickly, go buy the 50mm f/1.8 lens your camera manufacturer makes and only use that for a couple months.

I’m curious, why is this?

Re: Classic 50mm “Normal” Lens

#39

If you have an SLR or mirrorless camera, don't yet own any prime lenses (a lens that doesn't zoom), and you want your photographs to get a lot better very quickly, go buy the 50mm f/1.8 lens your camera manufacturer makes and only use that for a couple months.

I’m curious, why is this?

In my limited photography experience, a prime lens forces you to move and work more to get a pleasing composition which teaches your eye better than twisting a zoom lens.

Re: Classic 50mm “Normal” Lens

#40
I've outgrown it, personally. For that "natural" perspective, 35mm is still wide enough to shoot a scene "the way you see it", but it can still be surprisingly intimate. And for the "portrait" thing, anything 70-100mm is a sweet spot. 50mm is trying to split the difference between both scenarios but doesn't really achieve either. So personally, I'm more likely to carry a 35+85 duo. Or in fact, a 50mm f/1.8 on an APS-C crop camera along with my smartphone. Or, a smartphone with a portrait lens. I just zoom in from the default 24mm a lot of times, that's it.

From a tech point of view, 50mm is the easiest lens to build. That's why they used to be on everything. Not because they're useful. A symmetric double gauss setup with six lenses is kinda straightforward and it works okay, it even becomes excellent once stopped down. Sharp 35mm lenses that are also fast can only be built with aspherical lenses, so traditionally it wasn't really possible to build fast ones that are also good. Recent ones are excellent, but as always, many photographers refuse to go with the times, and they'll repeat decade old advice.

(TL;DR: Smartphones do a lot of things right, and their evolution was backed by data. They first went from 28mm to 24mm, added 16mm second, then added 75mm third, and only then did they add 48mm as a 2x zoom into the 24mm camera. It's neat, but not essential.)

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