Hacker News Board Hacker News, browsed like a classic message board
Live data from Hacker News

Soldering Wires – Here's a different way

instructables.com

Post reply on HN
Print view View original

191–200 of 200 posts

Re: Soldering Wires – Here's a different way

#191

Post by snvzz »

outworlder wrote: post #62
sandreas wrote: post #20

Oh boy, nice idea, but this looks complicated and time consuming. I recommend to get some good equipment first: - solder fume extractor (see below) - extra thin high quality tin - a desoldering pump AND desoldering wire - high quality flux - a TS 100 soldering Iron with KU tip from ali express for 50 bucks - optional: USB-C Power Adapter for your existing power supply (so you don't have to buy one) - optional: a sold…

Why is it that the TS100 gets recommended so often? I took a look at it, ultimately got a TS80P. It's smaller, and fed via USB-C. Seems to work perfectly fine. > solder fume extractor How big of a deal is solder fumes of unleaded solder?

>Why is it that the TS100 gets recommended so often?

Because it's a good iron. So is the TS80p.

Pine64 has the Pinecil, a TS100-compatible improved replacement that is RISC-V based.

Re: Soldering Wires – Here's a different way

#192

Post by snvzz »

akiselev wrote: post #26
WalterBright wrote: post #6

For me, the breakthrough was getting a thermostat controlled soldering iron. Suddenly I could make perfect joints every time.

It's not the thermostat but the power output that matters and a slightly more expensive soldering iron will generally have a slightly better power supply. For example, the best soldering iron I've ever used is the Metcal fixed temperature inductive soldering station which require changing out the tip alloy to change the temperature (and I've never had to change tips for temp, only shape).

>It's not the thermostat but the power output that matters

If you have the power without the thermostat, you will reach unsafe temperatures and burn what you're not supposed to burn.

PID controllers make a huge difference.

Re: Soldering Wires – Here's a different way

#193

Post by OJFord »

gw99 wrote: post #170
OJFord wrote: post #126

Earlier quoted context omitted.

So flux is 'a crutch for people who don't know how to solder', because that knowledge would lead you to use 'expensive' flux-cored solder instead of 'shitty solder' plus flux? I really don't think either's wrong, and anyway I assume 'production engineering' is not using how-to-solder tutorials.

Shitty solder + flux is wrong. Simple. That is part of production engineering which is mostly about making sure that your product doesn't come back again because it's broken.

Yes, you're concerned with the yield on tens, hundreds of thousands of boards.

It's a different world from a hobbyist's one-off project. This advice was never intended for you, and appropriate advice can differ between audiences.

Re: Soldering Wires – Here's a different way

#194

Post by midoridensha »

jstanley wrote: post #57
orangepurple wrote: post #49

Soldering is good, BUT... You should avoid soldering when possible because connectors are detachable for module maintenance and solder is prone to cracking in high vibration environments. Typically you will see a connector soldered and otherwise secured mechanically to a PCB where vibrations are unavoidable. Crimping is better whenever feasible

Crimping is better if you're an industrial facility and you can afford to scrap a few parts working out how to crimp them. If you're an individual making runs of 1 and you have to crimp a different connector to a different wire every time, soldering is easier and more likely to result in a reliable connection.

Crimping works really well when the parts are sized appropriately for each other (the correct size wire and matching-size terminal, for instance), AND when you have the exact correct crimp tool to do the crimping. Crimp tools can cost a small fortune, and are specific for the item they're crimping. You can't just use some generic crimp tool or pliers and get a good crimp connection. So in a factory setting with the correct parts and tools, crimps are actually superior.

For prototypes or one-offs, soldering as you say is more likely to be reliable.

Re: Soldering Wires – Here's a different way

#195

Post by tengwar2 »

jstanley wrote: post #57
orangepurple wrote: post #49

Soldering is good, BUT... You should avoid soldering when possible because connectors are detachable for module maintenance and solder is prone to cracking in high vibration environments. Typically you will see a connector soldered and otherwise secured mechanically to a PCB where vibrations are unavoidable. Crimping is better whenever feasible

Crimping is better if you're an industrial facility and you can afford to scrap a few parts working out how to crimp them. If you're an individual making runs of 1 and you have to crimp a different connector to a different wire every time, soldering is easier and more likely to result in a reliable connection.

Crimping is pretty easy if you have the right tool - not the "free" one made from stamped metal that comes with those cheap boxes of red/blue/yellow connectors, which crushes the connector flat rather than allowing it to retain the springiness on which a good crimp relies. I'd say that it's easier than soldering, but the tools are roughly comparable in price. However there is rarely a choice to be made: if you're attaching to a circuit board you're going to have to either solder wires on, or solder a connector (even if the wire or cable going to the connector is crimped). I just use crimping for motorcycle electrics, where vibration is an issue.

Re: Soldering Wires – Here's a different way

#196

Post by Zekio »

sandreas wrote: post #160
Zekio wrote: post #130

Earlier quoted context omitted.

damn, you made me notice they've made a V2 of pinecil

Do you know where I can get a Pinecil V2 for 25$ in Germany? The TS100 was about 40$, when I bought it...

they have it in their EU store https://pine64eu.com/product/pinecil-smart-mini-portable-sol... but currently it is out of stock, not at 25$ though

Re: Soldering Wires – Here's a different way

#197

Post by stavros »

picture wrote: post #97
squarefoot wrote: post #88

Bad advice. Just use a good solder iron, thin solder (possibly leaded), and good no clean flux, then lots of practice. It's all about timing: too quick = cold solder joint; too slow = burned pad/track, or part. Learn also to understand about thermal mass and how to change the temperature and timings according to what you're soldering and its size. Also, that iron looks like a Hakko "936" cheap clone: they are barely…

The PineCil looks like a TS100 clone, though I'm not too sure which came first. The huge benefit of these microcontroller irons are their monolithic heating element that integrates the temperature sensor. This allows for much better temperature control compared to cheap Hakko-style irons where the tip is a metal piece that sleeves over the heating and sensing elements. It makes a very meaningful improvement in terms…

The TS100 came first, but the Pinecil is better.

Re: Soldering Wires – Here's a different way

#198

Post by lightedman »

exmadscientist wrote: post #168
lightedman wrote: post #163

Earlier quoted context omitted.

I most certainly do not use flux in my rework. I am in a zero-clean facility, the only flux allowed is that which comes with the solder paste for stencil and SMT placement - on initial production work. Fluxless rework isn't difficult at all. I do it dozens of times a day.

I'm having a little trouble believing you unless by "rework" you meant "reflow". Production reflow without extra added flux is normal. It's the goal for every assembly line anywhere and is almost always achieved. Rework of existing joints after assembly without flux is just about impossible. The oxidation of the joints guarantees it. Many times the flux in the paste or wire is sufficient, but this is more true for th…

"I'm having a little trouble believing you unless by "rework" you meant "reflow"."

Nope, we don't use flux at all for rework. As the majority of our boards are solid metal, we just slap them on a heater and poke the components down or slide them into place. Flux isn't needed. Even with crappy RoHS tin solder. If you're getting significant-enough oxidation that interferes with rework with the product fresh out of the oven, or even a day or two later, you're doing something extremely wrong. Check and make sure your production paste isn't contaminated.

Re: Soldering Wires – Here's a different way

#199

Post by [deleted] »

exmadscientist wrote: post #141
Ao7bei3s wrote: post #28

Earlier quoted context omitted.

Yes, but if you do have to design a PCB for soldering wires to pads, you can increase the strength of the pad by making the pad much larger in the copper layer. You can still keep it the original smaller size in the solder resist layer; keeping the soldering area away from the pad edge and fragile traces there increases the strength further, and gives it a tidy look and a nice soldering experience. For quick one offs…

Nope. Do it that way and your pad still rips off. You need to nail the pad down with a few vias (under soldermask is fine) or use a through hole. Please just use a through hole if you can. They're a lot more reliable than just about anything else. Even SMT connectors rip off boards without much trouble. (This is my job. I have seen some things .)

[deleted]

Re: Soldering Wires – Here's a different way

#200

Post by MarkMarine »

WalterBright wrote: post #43
MarkMarine wrote: post #19

Earlier quoted context omitted.

Depends on the solder and the component, for wires there is no way to hurt it so you can crank up for efficiency, and for sensitive components you need to be more careful. It’s actually much harder to make a good solder joint with lead free solder, so be kind to yourself about it. No harm in re-doing a joint.

You can melt the insulation off the wires :-/ Anyhow, I never fried a part with the iron. Heated the wire just enough to flow the solder, and applied heat only barely long enough. To avoid needing a third hand for some joints, I'd pre-fill the hole with solder. Then heat it up again till it melted, and push the wire in.

You can get a cold joint that way. I went through the through-hole solder training for lead free solder, for manufacturing aerospace components back in the day. #1 thing they teach is not to do things like that, you need to heat the component and let the solder flow to the joint around the component, never heat the solder itself or pre-solder, etc.
Post reply on HN