Soldering Wires – Here's a different way • Hacker News Board

Re: Soldering Wires – Here's a different way

#151

Post by JKCalhoun » Wed, Sep 28, 2022, 3:30 AM UTC

fasthands9 wrote: post #149

JKCalhoun wrote: post #127

Earlier quoted context omitted.

Another pro tip, get a better soldering iron than the one in the video. Soldering stations aren't cheap (Hakko is my somewhat-budget-friendly favorite) but that (plus good solder) will make you realize you've been able to solder all along: it's just that you were using crappy tools.

What's your tip for what makes one good? I dont do a ton but for me it always seemed like the weak point was the grip was 3+ inches from the tip. If I am soldering something that is just a couple mm from the hole next to it then this requires a decemt amount of dexterity - even if things are held nicely.

The base with temperature control and a fine-ish tip is what makes them good, I think. The older Radio Shack pencil soldering irons had a fat tip, one temperature.

The nicer stations like Hakko's have very nice metallurgy in their tips as well.

As soon as you get a station too there's a little sponge, maybe some metal wool — these things you can use to clean the tip of the soldering iron. That in itself encourages good soldering hygiene and makes for better soldering.

Re: Soldering Wires – Here's a different way

#152

Post by userbinator » Wed, Sep 28, 2022, 3:39 AM UTC

Congratulations, you have effectively reinvented solder paste, but without the flux. /s

Like the others here, I'm not convinced this is better in any way than the "normal" method, or just using solder paste.

Re: Soldering Wires – Here's a different way

#153

Post by userbinator » Wed, Sep 28, 2022, 3:41 AM UTC

denkmoon wrote: post #136

duped wrote: post #66

Earlier quoted context omitted.

Totally true, but you don't always have a solder tub or tub of flux laying around. The other advantage of this approach is it's easier to avoid tinning under the insulation

What is the impact of tinning under the insulation?

Makes stranded wire turn solid and likely to break at that point.

Re: Soldering Wires – Here's a different way

#154

Post by mmoskal » Wed, Sep 28, 2022, 3:49 AM UTC

phs wrote: post #68

As someone who only wants to occasionally perform one-off firmware flashes on my devices, soldering always felt clumsy and heavy-weight. For actual chips, SPI programmer clips have been great. For test pads, I just ordered one of these [1], which will hopefully work just a well. [1]: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09MKHH7DY

I've been using a do-it-yourself connector [0] (aka Hack Connect) for my own boards - it stays in the board by itself.

Interesting the link you posted - it seems 2x5p 1.27mm version with one pin cut would work as the pogo version of Hack Connect.

[0]: https://arcade.makecode.com/hardware/dbg

Re: Soldering Wires – Here's a different way

#155

Post by sandreas » Wed, Sep 28, 2022, 3:57 AM UTC

larrywright wrote: post #118

sandreas wrote: post #20

Oh boy, nice idea, but this looks complicated and time consuming. I recommend to get some good equipment first: - solder fume extractor (see below) - extra thin high quality tin - a desoldering pump AND desoldering wire - high quality flux - a TS 100 soldering Iron with KU tip from ali express for 50 bucks - optional: USB-C Power Adapter for your existing power supply (so you don't have to buy one) - optional: a sold…

Do you have a recommendation for a home hobbyist fume extractor?

Not really, I bought a used one with a simple replaceable active carbon filter and place it near the open window. The most important thing is, that it is powerful enough to really EXTRACT and filter the fumes, not spread them in the room.

If you are in the basement without window, you probably need a better one with HEPA + active carbon.

I would say for hobbyists you should spend around 20 - 50 bucks for a used one.

Maybe also care about the loudness... these things are really bad ;)

Re: Soldering Wires – Here's a different way

#156

Post by Ccecil » Wed, Sep 28, 2022, 3:58 AM UTC

salmo wrote: post #129

JKCalhoun wrote: post #127

Earlier quoted context omitted.

Another pro tip, get a better soldering iron than the one in the video. Soldering stations aren't cheap (Hakko is my somewhat-budget-friendly favorite) but that (plus good solder) will make you realize you've been able to solder all along: it's just that you were using crappy tools.

A few years back I bought a Chinese hot air rework station for I never really use the hot air part but am in love with the iron. I can dial in the temp and avoid breathing fumes directly. It is so much nicer to use than my old Weller with a temp dial.

The Aoyue hotair station I have has a soldering iron which is a clone of a hakko 936. Uses the same tips even.

I almost exclusively use my Metcals now...the Aoyue has a tip for inserting heat set brass inserts to 3d prints nowadays, I don't use it to solder much.

Sidenote: My hotair station is almost 8 years old...still works fine. So for the money it was worth it for sure.

Re: Soldering Wires – Here's a different way

#157

Post by Ccecil » Wed, Sep 28, 2022, 4:03 AM UTC

jasonpeacock wrote: post #8

I was taught to heat the wire and touch the solder to it. This looks like they are laying the wire on the solder, then heating the solder - not the wire. Won't this result in a cold solder on the wire?

Not just the wire...the entire joint needs to be heated equally (ideally) and then the solder is touched to the heated joint. Any time you touch the solder to the iron it will burn off the flux and cause cold joints.

Never put solder on the iron tip...although...I do it sometimes to increase heat transfer to larger joints (emulates a larger tip) but you can expect that the flux has burned off and may require liquid flux and reflow.

Sidenote: if you coat your tips with solder before shutting off your iron it will prevent oxidation and increase tip life.

Re: Soldering Wires – Here's a different way

#158

Post by Ccecil » Wed, Sep 28, 2022, 4:08 AM UTC

skybrian wrote: post #11

WalterBright wrote: post #6

For me, the breakthrough was getting a thermostat controlled soldering iron. Suddenly I could make perfect joints every time.

I have one, but I don’t know what temperature to set it to and there are probably other flaws in my technique, so it’s still trial and error.

Set the iron to the temp listed on the solder's datasheet.

Use a larger tip for higher heat transfer. Don't increase temp...this is how people burn boards and lift pads.

Re: Soldering Wires – Here's a different way

#159

Post by techdragon » Wed, Sep 28, 2022, 4:08 AM UTC

b112 wrote: post #128

mdturnerphys wrote: post #99

Earlier quoted context omitted.

Here's the one I've used: https://www.laserwiresolutions.com/product/mercury-4/

This... how, why, what? It has to be fake. Right? We're supposed to be using lasers to ... well, shoot at space ships, not cut plastic wire wrapping!!

When all you have is a laser, every problem looks like something to be ablated.

Re: Soldering Wires – Here's a different way

#160

Post by sandreas » Wed, Sep 28, 2022, 4:09 AM UTC

Zekio wrote: post #130

sottol wrote: post #33

Earlier quoted context omitted.

Or get a $25 Pinecil that comes with IronOS pre-installed and is by all accounts almost as good as the TS-100 [1] (it's $40 on Amazon now :/). I got one, was so impressed that I got another. One big upside over the TS-100 for me is that it can be driven by both a beefier USB-C (which I always have around anyway) and DC-plug PSU. Plus, it's running Risc-V, and they even sell an breakout to use the "logic board" as a R…

damn, you made me notice they've made a V2 of pinecil

Do you know where I can get a Pinecil V2 for 25$ in Germany?

The TS100 was about 40$, when I bought it...