211–220 of 260 posts
I've got a sony google bravia and have disabled everything I can think of, chromecast, remote start, bluetooth etc. Cannot get it under 12W when switched off. Can't believe I got suckered like that. There really should be consequences. Nobody would reasonably think their tv is sucking juice like that when turned off.
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Audio amplifiers, especially old ones, can easily draw 100 watts when on 'standby' - ie. the amplifier is turned on but playing no sound.
If it is a class A amplifier, I think that would make sense. But how many people have huge class A amplifiers for their home audio?
The much more standard class AB still uses 25% with no output, 100 W idle would be a stereo 200 W amplifier. Or a 5x 80 W surround amplifier.
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There were devices that consumed 80 watts in standby. I have a cabinet full of equipment including my cable modem, a computer (server, no monitor) with 8 mechanical hard drives. The idle current is 76 watts or so. How could something be so high?
Cable modems and servers weren’t designed for standby. Also, if we’re talking consumer tech from the 1970’s or 1980’s, I think it’s twofold. Firstly, the market cared more about “time to wake up” than about power usage. People had fewer devices, they were (relatively) more expensive, and people were used to fully switching off stuff, so standby power usage wasn’t seen as a big issue. Secondly, the tech itself didn’t…
However startup time would be minimal - a couple of seconds - compared to warmup for the CRT, which would usually be at least 10 seconds before it would look settled. But I recall devices generally being much faster to start up. A C64 would boot to READY prompt in 3 seconds. The penalty for turning off completely and needing to wait for boot was small, and for computing devices, wait time was dominated by loading, not booting. You might have to wait for a rewind with a VCR, and you'd certainly wait for tape loading on devices in the C64 class. Consoles with cartridges didn't take long to boot up and load though.
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> a modern standing freezer with working seals will let less air out the seals than is exchanged by opening the door I think the idea is that the seals can conduct heat , and do so much better than whatever abitrarily-sophisticated thermal isolation is in the walls of the freezer, not that the airflow through the seals is carrying any significant amount of heat.
The chest freezers I've seen have very similar seals to standing freezers, are you saying they're significantly better? In ether case modern doors build out an insulating section around the seal, and the seal itself creates a second seal against that so it's air gapped inside the freezer as well. The seal itself of course is a hollow tube which is somewhat of an air gap with the outside too. They're pretty good, I wo…
Chest freezer seals are far better than upright freezer seals because:
* The length of the seal is smaller compared to volume,
* The height of the seal is not constrained by the closing magnets (as mechanical latches are not legal on consumer freezers),
* The temperature differential at the top of the freezer is smallest.
The specific heat capacity of air at constant pressure is ~1 kJ/kg K and 1 m^3 air has a mass of ~1.2 kg, so 1 kJ/kg K * 1.2 kg = 1.1 kJ/K. Even a freezer that exchanges 2 m^3 of air for outside air at say a 70K differential (the difference between -40C and a 30C room) for each opening only has to remove 1.1kJ/K * 2 * 70K = 154kJ, or 0.05 kWh, which is the standard unit of electricity.
An unit of residential electricity in the most expensive US State (Hawaii) is 41.2c / kWh, so opening our enormous freezer in the worst possible conditions and completely exchanging the air using the most expensive electricity costs us 2¢. It's a complete non-factor.
Source for prices: https://www.energybot.com/electricity-rates-by-state.html
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Not at the current prices for new customers. I'm currently paying 50,07€ct/kWh here in northern Germany. 25W * 8760h * 0,5€ = ~109€ per year. The price hurts, yes, but the waste of power is _criminal_.
Hah, wanted to say, nice current prices , can I have those? But you beat me, 0.41€, also Northern Germany.
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I had a DirecTV satellite receiver with DVR. They rolled out an update and made a big deal their new "Energy Star ECO power savings mode." I wondered how much power it could really save because it was a DVR with a spinning hard drive that would always record the last 30 minutes of the current channel even if you didn't set it to record anything explicitly. So I measured it while on and also in "power savings mode" wh…
> 14.5W when on and 14.0W when in "power savings mode" A software upgrade that saves 3% across hundreds of thousands of people doesn’t seem that pointless in the aggregate.
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If it is a class A amplifier, I think that would make sense. But how many people have huge class A amplifiers for their home audio?
Old ones... Everything from the 60's, 70's, 80's and 90's... Remember in europe we have a lot more old stuff - especially old houses that are family owned for 100+ years tend not to have things replaced often unless they're unrepairable. Even modern class D amps can be 30+ watts when not playing anything tho.
I don't even think something like a RasPi 4 physically can pull that much.
Is this chip shortage related and they just couldn't find some regulator or something and used linear?
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I thought about getting a Shield. But only as a low maintenance Plex Server appliance. I wouldn’t voluntarily look at any interface on my TV designed by an ad company. I have a few Roku TVs around my house and I recommend them to most people. But I also have AppleTVs connected to my most used TVs.
Rasplex?
Installing a Plex server involves these steps on a Raspberry
https://pimylifeup.com/raspberry-pi-plex-media-player/
As opposed to just going to the Google Play store and installing it on the Shield a getting updates.
Besides the Raspberry is going to struggle transcoding, the Shield supports hardware transcoding for Plex.
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The chest freezers I've seen have very similar seals to standing freezers, are you saying they're significantly better? In ether case modern doors build out an insulating section around the seal, and the seal itself creates a second seal against that so it's air gapped inside the freezer as well. The seal itself of course is a hollow tube which is somewhat of an air gap with the outside too. They're pretty good, I wo…
Chest freezers do have much thicker insulation on all walls (as they aren't constrained by the standard widths (24 to 40 in in the US, I think? 60-90 cm in the EU). Chest freezer seals are far better than upright freezer seals because: * The length of the seal is smaller compared to volume, * The height of the seal is not constrained by the closing magnets (as mechanical latches are not legal on consumer freezers), *…