Not only is the code itself structured much more pleasantly than I ever suspected possible in C++, huge parts of it were also recorded while they were being written (see https://www.youtube.com/c/AndreasKling) so you can see and hear the process that led to the final product.
Some of the code is quite gnarly, which is to be expected from a repo containing an entire operating system, containing everything from the kernel to a bespoke web browser.
However, as SerenityOS isn't trying to be a UNIX clone, its C++ oriented APIs are a nice breath of fresh air compared to the barebones C that Linux and friends use.