Earlier quoted context omitted.
Because what you're describing isn't a "rogue wave," it's just a slightly bigger wave. I'm not a surfer and am just a person who's been swimming in the sea a handful of times and I've seen this phenomenom. The rogue waves being described are incredibly rare to the point that sailors who have sailed 5000 hours have never encountered one and are sometimes talked about as though they are mythical. When rogue waves were…
When I was in the navy, the old Grizzly senior dudes would talk about rogue waves like the green flash [0]; some insisted they knew someone who saw one and others were sure that both were amongst the oldest sailor jokes in existence. It seems both phenomenons are real! [0] https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Green_flash
I have corresponded with someone who camps in Antarctica (it takes all kinds!) and has watched it happen.
Seeing a rogue wave and not dying has to be a lot rarer than just seeing one.