Is there any evidence that Google is actually better at software engineering than other companies? IMHO, it seems they have enough money to deliberately do things inefficiently which would kill a smaller company, but Google can manage to succeed through brute force. Honestly I think the better example would be from a tiny company that can't afford to do things wrong.
Depends what you mean by "better at software engineering". What Google seems to do really well is building robust systems at a scale that pushes the limits of what humanity is capable of. If you collect anecdotes from engineers who've worked on scaling systems at the small number of companies at this scale, there seems to be general agreement that Google is "the best". My understanding from these anecdotes is that Go…
Whether core services are "on fire" depends on which team you're on. Some core services are pretty much "on fire" all the time, with high pager loads for the SRE teams supporting them. Some core services are rock solid, and the SRE teams conduct exercises where they turn the service off just to remind people that the uptime SLO is not 100%.
Same goes for code quality. Some teams have code that you'd just love to print out and put the code listings on your desk. Some teams have code that doesn't make sense and nobody understands.
Some teams are highly functional, some teams are exceptionally dysfunctional.