Artisanal hand-crafted CSS on a mix of hand-written HTML and Markdown-to-templated-HTML pages, with a webserver I wrote myself in Go (well, stitched together the standard library HTTP code myself...)
It took a bit of fussing to find CSS settings which would scale nicely on mobile and look good on all sorts of devices, but I'm proud that my site degrades relatively gracefully and is readable in lynx, Plan 9's abaco browser, and a $20 feature phone's browser.
I wish I updated my blog more frequently, but there's a couple neat projects in there.
edit: i also made an effort a few years back to eliminate all external resources and javascript (web fonts, analytics, etc.), except where unavoidable (i.e. when I want to inline a Youtube video). I also took it out from behind Cloudflare, partly because they were injecting JS. I'm pleased with how it performs and how it's handled HN traffic on a couple front-page occasions.