> It costs $10,000 USD to build one of these > The ten thousandth one costs $15 As a software engineer, I'm used to being able to build essentially whatever I want, with the only cost being my time. I'm often unpleasantly reminded that software is an outlier in that regard and as soon as physical items are concerned, especially hardware, it turns out that manufacturing even a simple thing is prohibitively expensive i…
A Minimum Viable Computer, or Linux for $15
361–370 of 408 posts
Re: A Minimum Viable Computer, or Linux for $15
#362Earlier quoted context omitted.
You can even run 4-layer impedance controlled boards that support BGAs for ~$60 and get 10 of them. Problem is I now have a bunch of unpopulated PCBs I don't really intend to use. I made a few PCIe x1 to SMA adapters for an FPGA devkit - even building a single one and considering the rest of the PCBs as write-offs was less than a quarter the price of premade ones.
Can you verify good flow of solder on a BGA without an x-ray? Do you just reflow it for the prescribed time and see if it works?
Re: A Minimum Viable Computer, or Linux for $15
#363Re: A Minimum Viable Computer, or Linux for $15
#364In China we buy second-hand Redmi 2 for 60RMB each (roughly $9.5). Can be bought in quantities. Fully functional with 2GB RAM+16GB eMMC, and battery, touchscreen, WiFi, Bluetooth, camera, and even 4G support. It's not built from scratch like this one, but if you are just looking for something cheap, then this price is insane.
Re: A Minimum Viable Computer, or Linux for $15
#365Re: A Minimum Viable Computer, or Linux for $15
#366In China we buy second-hand Redmi 2 for 60RMB each (roughly $9.5). Can be bought in quantities. Fully functional with 2GB RAM+16GB eMMC, and battery, touchscreen, WiFi, Bluetooth, camera, and even 4G support. It's not built from scratch like this one, but if you are just looking for something cheap, then this price is insane.
Amazing that we went from this potato[1] for $12 in 2013 to that Redmi 2 in 9 years. Now, you said that you buy the Redmi second-hand, but still - the leap is amazing. [1] https://www.bunniestudios.com/blog/?page_id=3107
Re: A Minimum Viable Computer, or Linux for $15
#367Earlier quoted context omitted.
You can even run 4-layer impedance controlled boards that support BGAs for ~$60 and get 10 of them. Problem is I now have a bunch of unpopulated PCBs I don't really intend to use. I made a few PCIe x1 to SMA adapters for an FPGA devkit - even building a single one and considering the rest of the PCBs as write-offs was less than a quarter the price of premade ones.
Can you verify good flow of solder on a BGA without an x-ray? Do you just reflow it for the prescribed time and see if it works?
Even PCBA companies usually just place and reflow the chip and may only use x-ray to validate the initial build- and then rely on process consistance + functional testing at the end of line.
Re: A Minimum Viable Computer, or Linux for $15
#368Re: A Minimum Viable Computer, or Linux for $15
#369Earlier quoted context omitted.
> I'm fairly decent with clay, always wondered if I could make something like a raspberry pi case with sculpey. The short answer is yes you can, but it's a PITA. Among other problems you have to deal with shrinkage and drooping. I'd only use that approach for a quick and dirty prototype that just needed to hold parts together and survive rough handling. A better option is to build a case from parts you cut out of a s…
> A better option is to build a case from parts you cut out of a sheet of plastic (anywhere from 1mm on up) that you then glue together. Not a bad way to go, but I found that for hand assembly, I had a really hard time with the glue out of control; I probably needed a better applicator than the default tube of epoxy. Instead, I would go with VHB (Very High Bond) tape. Also weird to use, if you are using the thin 1mm…
- machine a form out of wax or delrin (or clay), pour a silicone mold, and then pour liquid plastic into the mold, either a not-yet-polymerized resin such as a thin epoxy, or a molten thermoplastic;
- similarly, but use plaster instead of silicone and burn out the form in a kiln before pouring (not applicable for clay);
- 3-D print the case, and if you don't like the layer lines, smooth them out with either a coat of paint or by smoothing an ABS print with acetone vapor;
- 3-D print a form for molding.
Even for injection molding, you might start with an aluminum mold, which won't last as long as hardened steel but will cost a lot less.
But I don't know anything about this stuff so maybe it's not applicable to this case?