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Things I would like to 3D print

jmtd.net

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Re: Things I would like to 3D print

#121

Post by numpad0 »

jimnotgym wrote: post #54
davrosthedalek wrote: post #51

Earlier quoted context omitted.

Have you tried covering the build plate with a glue stick? Always worked for me, at least for PLA.

I have heard of this and it is on my list of things to try. It seems counterintuitive to me that the glue wouldn't simply become a runny mess. Thank you for confirming it works. Just confirming we are talking about 'Pritt-Stick' when people say glue stick, are we?

Pritt-Stick works, but I have yellow painter’s masking tape on plain sheet of aluminum. Bed’s not even particularly flat, but works for me, no mess.

Couple things that comes off my head that caused my “adhesion problems” over past years were incorrect Z=0 height, uneven bed, rigidity issue on moving bed, and worn out nozzle. Worn out nozzle is easy to spot, if your extruded material curls up before dropping down, that nozzle is done.

It had been more often an excessive or uneven force forcing print to depart from bed, than print simply detaching for lack of reasonable adhesion.

Also, a last-resort workaround is to put the model in the air so first 5mm(1/4”) or more is just supports. Support material is more tolerant and top of it is naturally more flat and parallel. Downside is that the bottom of the print looks just bad.

Re: Things I would like to 3D print

#122

Post by marcosdumay »

jimnotgym wrote: post #54
davrosthedalek wrote: post #51

Earlier quoted context omitted.

Have you tried covering the build plate with a glue stick? Always worked for me, at least for PLA.

I have heard of this and it is on my list of things to try. It seems counterintuitive to me that the glue wouldn't simply become a runny mess. Thank you for confirming it works. Just confirming we are talking about 'Pritt-Stick' when people say glue stick, are we?

Do have a glass cover, so you can just take it out and wash (and also have no problem with scratching).

Anyway, a heated bed is much more impactful than the bed surface. Glass at 60°C alone is enough for PLA (with glue it adheres too well and stops working again), while you will need both a heated bed and surface covering for ABS.

Also, any PVA based glue works. If you dissolve some white glue and spread it through the glass, it works even better than solid glue, but it's much more work.

Re: Things I would like to 3D print

#123

Post by tristor »

jimnotgym wrote: post #47

Funny story. I bought a printer for my kids this year. An Anycubic Mega Zero with a magnetic base. It stays pretty calibrated but I have struggled with base adhesion once a few prints have been through it. IPA and abrasives have not fixed it...maybe I will get around to some other things...there have been a few random failures, but not many. We printed a few novelties items that came out OK. The real learning curve i…

You’re telling this as a funny story, but to an outside observer that sounds horrifyingly dystopian. Someone improperly reported you like they were getting side-pay by the Stasi and four armed government agents showed up at your door to accost you over a personal possession within your own home. Absolutely nuts, and ironically why many people consider personal firearm possession essential to freedom.

Re: Things I would like to 3D print

#124

Post by dTal »

sharklazer wrote: post #98
dTal wrote: post #93

Earlier quoted context omitted.

Could this have been a good cop / bad cop routine? Officer 2 was encouraging you to break the law. It is an offence to manufacture, import or sell a realistic imitation firearm, or to modify an imitation firearm so that it becomes a realistic imitation firearm.

Where? Making guns at home is as American as apple pie.

Is there some reason you assume "American" by default on the global information superhighway?

Re: Things I would like to 3D print

#125

Post by wlll »

jimnotgym wrote: post #92
wlll wrote: post #81

Earlier quoted context omitted.

> It stays pretty calibrated but I have struggled with base adhesion once a few prints have been through it. Try using a heated bed and enclosing the printer in a chamber to prevent draughts (anything will do, cardboard). A heated bed and IPA work for me.

I do have a heated bed. A cabinet would be nice as protection for the printer as well. One day!

For what it's worth, my Prusa doesn't have any issues with adhesion (heated bed, occasional clean, no cabinet). It could be a calibration issue (the Prusa does self levelling which might help?) or a slicer settings issue, not sure. Anyway, it is possible to get repeatable results.

Re: Things I would like to 3D print

#126

Post by mdorazio »

ravenstine wrote: post #64
jimnotgym wrote: post #47

Funny story. I bought a printer for my kids this year. An Anycubic Mega Zero with a magnetic base. It stays pretty calibrated but I have struggled with base adhesion once a few prints have been through it. IPA and abrasives have not fixed it...maybe I will get around to some other things...there have been a few random failures, but not many. We printed a few novelties items that came out OK. The real learning curve i…

I just looked up your printer and it looks extremely similar to the one that I have, which is the Creality Ender 3. Both appear to have an identical stock plate, which makes me think your base adhesion problems will almost certainly be addressed by switching to a spring-steel PEI plate. Although I didn't start having problems after only a few prints, the stock plate on the Ender 3 actually worked too well for me whic…

+1 for PEI base, although it doesn't have to be spring steel. I ran a print farm years ago and used PEI sheets on top of the stock beds. You can buy them cheaply on Amazon with adhesive tape, cut them to whatever size you need, and adhere them right to your existing base plate.

Although I fully agree with the second part of this comment as well - these days I only print a few things a year for custom projects and generally find that making items primarily out of wood and metal with a few plastic parts is a lot more satisfying and useful.

Re: Things I would like to 3D print

#127

Post by SSilver2k2 »

demeyer1 wrote: post #3

Good list! Couple thoughts - if you are using some of these items with kids (the replacement part example) it's worth considering the types and materials of the filament you are using. Some are safer than others, depending on the application. If you are using for food storage, there are ways to take otherwise unsafe materials and make them safer for storing edible/consumable materials. If there is something out there…

Just wanted to chime in: Starting to become a huge fan of Thangs.com, thanks for being involved!

Re: Things I would like to 3D print

#128

Post by artursapek »

sharklazer wrote: post #98
dTal wrote: post #93

Earlier quoted context omitted.

Could this have been a good cop / bad cop routine? Officer 2 was encouraging you to break the law. It is an offence to manufacture, import or sell a realistic imitation firearm, or to modify an imitation firearm so that it becomes a realistic imitation firearm.

Where? Making guns at home is as American as apple pie.

This story can’t have happened in the US

Re: Things I would like to 3D print

#129

Post by justinlloyd »

There's a lot of things I'd like to print, but there's also a lot of things I'd like to build in wood or metal too, and frequently it isn't the printing that takes the time, but the designing.

I have never printed a Benchy or whatever that cartoonish boat is called. I've printed a dimensional cube about three times, twice to prove to the various makerspaces I am a member of that I know how to do 3D printing before I can use their machines and once just to verify that my printer was accurate.

I rarely download and print STLs as they are. I usually tweak the model or completely rebuild it before printing.

Some things I have printed in my life: A food-grade plastic insert that sits inside of the Rubbermaid cereal storage containers that captures all the small broken bits of cereal and the cereal dust and prevents it ending up in your cereal bowl.

A drive cage for my workstation because it wouldn't fit due to PSU size. Learned how to create snap fit tabs. Also improved on the original cage design to handle 2.5" SSDs with extra cooling fans.

A snap fit cupola with fans to permit extra tall Noctua CPU coolers to fit in a 4U rackmount case.

Drawer insert trays to go in a library card catalogue drawer to prevent things from falling through.

Cubby hole insert trays to go in an antique postal center (one of those classic parisian style ones with lots of little doors).

Custom sized drawer organizers for the two "junk drawers" that every house seems to accumulate.

Wall attached battery holders so that the rechargeable AA and AAA batteries that are in the queue to be charged are kept organized.

A custom box to hold all the Munchkin cards and cards for other card games.

A custom box to hold all the Munchkin Quest parts and cards. Plus some little figurines to represent the Munchkin Quest monsters.

And a half-dozen other "useful" items around the home.

I've gotta say, the convenience of having the printer is great, but the amortized cost of each print is about $700 at this time.

Re: Things I would like to 3D print

#130

Post by djmips »

demeyer1 wrote: post #3

Good list! Couple thoughts - if you are using some of these items with kids (the replacement part example) it's worth considering the types and materials of the filament you are using. Some are safer than others, depending on the application. If you are using for food storage, there are ways to take otherwise unsafe materials and make them safer for storing edible/consumable materials. If there is something out there…

I appreciate you naming your company Thangs and not co-opting an existing word cough meta cough windows.

Thanks from the bottom of my heart.

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